Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Transmission/diff whine

Check RoughTrax stock to see if you can get the parts Individually... Wiper seal Kit, Then buy the steering Bearings, Then a couple of Inner axle seals, Karsons Double Front Swivel Hub Seal & Gasket Kit - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club].. Another diff is an expensive option, You will still have to do the job of wiper seals bearings etc etc, The same job as you planning to do on the existing axle.... Where are you in Surrey

I’m in Walton on Thames.
What would be the best way to go?, do the knuckles and inner axle seals etc first then get the diff done at a specialist?.

I’m not too sure how the diff gets removed on solid axle vehicles as it’s my first one.
 
Its always difficult to assess When we cant hear how little or much the Diff is whining, Obviously you need a Steering Knuckle seal kit, Steering Bearings (x4) as a precaution while its in bits, Inner axle seals etc etc.... With the bearings and cv's packed with fresh grease and some new Diff oil..... The whine could go away (Could) go away...... Difficult one to call......... Or go with the Theory there is nothing wrong with the diff, and all will be well when you get the other jobs done... Is it abs model.... Does front locker work
 
No metal in the old oil i assume so i'd give lady luck a chance with new oil and leak stop before reassessing because worst case scenario is always our first thought .
 
Its always difficult to assess When we cant hear how little or much the Diff is whining, Obviously you need a Steering Knuckle seal kit, Steering Bearings (x4) as a precaution while its in bits, Inner axle seals etc etc.... With the bearings and cv's packed with fresh grease and some new Diff oil..... The whine could go away (Could) go away...... Difficult one to call......... Or go with the Theory there is nothing wrong with the diff, and all will be well when you get the other jobs done... Is it abs model.... Does front locker work
Yeah I think this is going to be the best course of action, sort the knuckles and axle seals out and another diff oil change.
If it's still doing it after that then look into getting a rebuild kit for the diff then.

Edit to add yeah it’s an ABS model and the front locker is working.
No metal in the old oil i assume so i'd give lady luck a chance with new oil and leak stop before reassessing because worst case scenario is always our first thought .
Not that I saw, there wasn't any on the magnetic bit of the drain/fillers either so fingers crossed!, I know what you mean, I always assume the worst when I get issues with a car or bike, think it's just because it then feels a lot better if it isn't as bad!.
 
Last edited:
You'll do most of the work needed to remove the diff when you sort the inner axle seals etc out. Once stripped to do those, you just need to unbolt the diff and take it off.

It's unlikely the noise will get any better unfortunately. It could just be the bearings in the diff, but will most likely be the gears. They don't like CV grease mixed in with the oil. Your best bet might be to try and source a second hand diff from a reputable supplier, but make sure it's the same ratio as yours as different models had different ratios. The alternative is new gears and bearings and find somewhere to rebuild yours for you, but that could get a lot more expensive. The good news is you can probably do absolutely nothing and drive it for another 20k+ miles if you ignore the noise!
 
Just be aware that if the CW+P are worn new bearings, seals and a perfect set up won't cure your noise. ( As Jon said as his post popped up just after I posted)

I must ask, did this noise show its head on the test drive?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
You'll do most of the work needed to remove the diff when you sort the inner axle seals etc out. Once stripped to do those, you just need to unbolt the diff and take it off.

It's unlikely the noise will get any better unfortunately. It could just be the bearings in the diff, but will most likely be the gears. They don't like CV grease mixed in with the oil. Your best bet might be to try and source a second hand diff from a reputable supplier, but make sure it's the same ratio as yours as different models had different ratios. The alternative is new gears and bearings and find somewhere to rebuild yours for you, but that could get a lot more expensive. The good news is you can probably do absolutely nothing and drive it for another 20k+ miles if you ignore the noise!
I spoke to the guy who only breaks 80s on eBay/his own website and said what diff it was etc and he’s got them available.
If while it’s getting the knuckles done anyway would unbolting 1 diff and putting the other in be pretty simple to do?.

Just be aware that if the CW+P are worn new bearings, seals and a perfect set up won't cure your noise. ( As Jon said as his post popped up just after I posted)

I must ask, did this noise show its head on the test drive?
It did, I did negotiate money off but wasn’t aware of the knuckle issue unfortunately, think it was me being hopeful it just needed an oil change!, still it’s not the end of the world, just means it’s going to have to wait for a wheel refurb and couple of minor cosmetic things for a little longer.

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice it’s been really helpful.

There’s someone I know who’s really reasonable but he’s more used to working on Land Rovers both old and new, is there anything that’s particularly different on an 80?.
 
The good news is you can probably do absolutely nothing and drive it for another 20k+ miles if you ignore the noise!

This is why I'd be inclined to try leak stop first , must assume butter is noisier to churn than milk , same with oil and grease . Wishful thinking perhaps but it don't cost much and money well spent if it gives you a clear idea of what needs to be done before you strip the axle .
 
As it’s already been mentioned, a second hand diff could already be noisy, or ready to be noisy, as the parts are readily available I’d think it’s wiser to spend on having your one rebuilt by a specialist firm, doing the full swivel seal and bearing rebuild, then you can forget about it for ever!
Also worth taking a little time to dress up the balls, a good wire wheel, a couple of coats of zinc primer and then spray enamel, this will help the wiper seals live longer and reduce ingress into the seals
 
In an ideal world you may as well do the rear at the same time because its only time and money , pay the rent next month instead i'm sure they will understand .
 
There’s someone I know who’s really reasonable but he’s more used to working on Land Rovers both old and new, is there anything that’s particularly different on an 80?.

If he's good with pre-Puma engined Defenders and the like, then he'll be fine with the 80 series. The independent guy I use for any jobs I can't be bothered to do myself (mostly the messy ones) is actually an independent Landrover specialist and he's never had any issued with our truck - though he does ask me to source the parts for him (which is a win-win really).
 
If he's good with pre-Puma engined Defenders and the like, then he'll be fine with the 80 series. The independent guy I use for any jobs I can't be bothered to do myself (mostly the messy ones) is actually an independent Landrover specialist and he's never had any issued with our truck - though he does ask me to source the parts for him (which is a win-win really).
Yeah he mostly does older Defenders,Disco1s and RR Classics with the odd D3/D4 and L322.
Roughtrax have got stock back in so going to get that part ordered!.
 
Got the rebuild kit already now trying to source a decent diff.

Other new revelation is I can’t get the front and rear lockers to come on because the CDL won’t engage.
From what I’ve read it’s usually one of the switches/wires on the transfer case?.
All lockers were working at the end of last week when I test drove it so maybe somethings come loose.
 
Generally you have to be in low box for the centre diff to engage, then the axle lockers can be engaged.

Are you looking for a S/H diff or a new CW+P rebuild kit?
 
Generally you have to be in low box for the centre diff to engage, then the axle lockers can be engaged.

Are you looking for a S/H diff or a new CW+P rebuild kit?
That’s what I thought but getting no locking in low, no ABS light and no CDL light, I think the CDL light bulb in the instrument panel needs replacing as it doesn’t come in when I turn the ignition on but the ABS one should come on in low too?.

I had a good read up on common issues last night and have ordered a new sensor/switch for the transfer box, going to crawl underneath it this weekend and check out the wires and connections and clean them up.

I’ve seen them all working so I’d guess it’s got to be either the sensor or a bad connection, so will try bridging the connection with a paper clip too to see if I can get it sorted.

I’m in two minds wether to get a rebuild kit or another diff to be honest, getting another diff is easier to fit and cheaper but like others have said it’s a bit of an unknown what you’re getting.
 
Back
Top