Truck not starting, just the infamous click

[AGM]

Back again for some more advice!

So we got back from a 2000 mile trip about a month ago and didn't touch the truck for about 2 weeks, following which it failed to start. I tried to jump start it but it seemed as though there just wasn't enough juice to trun it over. I've sinced charged the RHS battery but all I get is the infamous clicking when trying to start it, the battery discharge light is also on. I've checked both batteries and they are at about 12.4V, so assume this isn't the problem (?).

Interestingly, if the headlights are on when trying to start then we don't get anything (i.e. no clicking).

Any ideas what's going on?

Thanks again!
AGM

 

[madmanmart]

I'm Still going to say batterys. Could be dropping under load.

 

[AGM]

Thanks. So what's the fix? I've already tried charging the RHS one twice.

Haven't charged the LHS as it appeared to be OK.

 

[Chris]

The 80 is an odd beast. When it comes to the click, the first thing has to be batteries. Yes there are other things, but batteries is the place to start as MMM says. You can have two batteries that read 12v, they've been on charge. Turn the key click click. In Morocco we had this and ended up with two sets of jump leads, one to each battery banging in the juice. Small meter read fine. Leads off - click click.

We tried everything even had the starter off. In the end, a new battery went into the near side slot, turn key - vroom.

You can try all sorts of clever things with meters and so on, but my suggestion would be to drop two different batteries in from anywhere and turn the key. The truck uses 24v and needs 24v. If you have a failing battery I think it starts to act as load in the system when the batteries go from parallel to series. The good battery is dragged down in effect. Even with jump leads on we couldn't start this truck. We were baffled.

Where in the UK are you? If you were near me, I could try any one of 6 batteries in there.

 

[madmanmart]

Was it turning over at all when jump started?

If your positive the batterys are good then I'd check the starter relay located on the n/s inner wing. Mine was just clicking when that went.

 

[flint]

You can get drop testers for not too much (£20ish on ebay or amazon), not sure how durable the cheap ones are, but they’ll give you an idea if the batteries are on their way out.

 

[AGM]

Thanks, Chris

That's actually a little reassuring. I'm in South London (Vauxhall). Anywhere near?

 

[Chris]

I have one of those heated coil drop testers and it works well. Had it a while now. I don't trust electronic ones. You need a hoofing great load over the terminals. You soon see if it's holding a charge.

 

[AGM]

Was it turning over at all when jump started?

If your positive the batterys are good then I'd check the starter relay located on the n/s inner wing. Mine was just clicking when that went.

Yes it was trying to turn over when it was jump started - so was expecting it to be sorted when the battery was charged!

 

[AGM]

You can get drop testers for not too much (£20ish on ebay or amazon), not sure how durable the cheap ones are, but they’ll give you an idea if the batteries are on their way out.

Thanks - will have a look

 

[stumog]

Mine died and would do anything. Got my head up my ass.
Turned out a 10amp fuse top left as you look stopped it from starting.

 

[Chris]

No sorry. Saying that, I'm sure we used to have our locations in the side bar, didn't we? I'm in the East Mids. Click on the little map symbol

 

[madmanmart]

Yes it was trying to turn over when it was jump started - so was expecting it to be sorted when the battery was charged!

I definitely saying batterys then.

 

[StarCruiser]

Is it a click or a clunk? If it's a heavy clunk it could be the starter solenoid pulling in but the contacts could be burned out so the starter only turns slowly then not at all.

 

[GuyB]

Another vote for batteries.. you really need both of them to be in good shape. I've had similar symptoms cured when I replaced them both.

The thing is they work in parallel, and only when starting are they switched over to work in series, so one failing battery will draw down the other. Often people replace just the week battery, only to find themselves in the same problem a year or so down the road.

Fit a matched pair of batteries for best performance and longevity - especially if you're planning a big adventure!

 

[AGM]

Seems fairly unanimous - will try a new battery then.

Is it a click or a clunk? If it's a heavy clunk it could be the starter solenoid pulling in but the contacts could be burned out so the starter only turns slowly then not at all.

@StarCruiser - definitely a click rather than a clunk

 

[StarCruiser]

This is just puzzling me as when I had flat batteries, i got multiple clicks. It may be because my batteries were not as discharged as yours. You can always get your batteries tested somewhere that sells batteries. Usually they are pretty honest and accurate.

Certainly looks like batteries.

 

[clivehorridge]

When one or both of my batteries were low, I got the multiple clicking sound, and presumed it to be the 24V switch-over trying (but failing) to operate.

15 minutes with a high-boost charger solved the problem, but my batteries were good, just run down at the time because muggins had left his lights on all night.

It's been fine since.

In my experience, the only way to test a battery is to have it on a trickle charge for 12 - 24 hours then test it with a drop tester. It works like a direct short-circuit between the terminals and if a cell or two are dead, it shows immediately, whereas a volt meter may indicate 12V being produced but with very few amps, which of course you need to power the 24V switch-over and the starter motor.

Forgive me, this is only my experience, my technical knowledge of electrickery remains almost as dead as your offending battery.

 

[StarCruiser]

Dead or not Clive, that sounded pretty convincing (and accurate) to me.
The clicking is everything trying to work, then when the starter tries to turn it pulls so much current that it drops the battery voltage to a point that the relays drop out and the cycle then starts again. You're also trying to stuff 60 A or so into glow plugs that aren't needed which further takes its toll.