Just noticed oil is leaking from where the rear prop-shaft joins both the gearbox and the rear diff. I assume there are some sort of seals in there... Is it a simple enough job to trust a local garage to do?
Two new oil leaks...
- Thread starter Lorin
- Start date
Yip, got the rear transfer case extension leak too! I have got a replacement bearing (apparently the leak is often a sign that all is not well with the bearing) and the oil seal. Unfortunately it means taking the whole t/case extension housing off etc. so not a 10 minute job. Hence i have not got round to itLorin said:
I just keep topping up the oil.I believe Rob has done this exercise(without doing the bearing
) so can shed some light on any tricks and tips if you want them. The diff leak I don't know about, presumably a seal or gasket is not happy.Cheers,
This job is a real PITA. Took me 8 hours including trying to find some snapring pliers man enough for the job (it took me 2 days to do the hubs for comparison, yes im slow but this time i reckon i could change the rear tc oil seal in half that time). The pliers are important as the usual snapring pliers with attachments do not spread far enough and the attachments get in the way for the deeper snap rings. you also need a big hammer and a deep socket, or similar, you dont mind using to knock the shaft out of the bearing. you could use a press of course but a big hammer is will do fine. you will also need some liquid gasket stuff to seal the TC when asembling.
Basicaly to change this cheap 8 or 9 quid seal you need to do the following:
1 remove rear prop from TC
2 remove rear transfer case extension housing (the rear part of the TC) oh and drain the oil first
3 now working on the rear extension housing remove the first snap ring
4 remove the viscous coupling
5 remove the separator and oil pump plate by undoing 3 bolts
6 remove speedometer form the housing (now you can poke a screwdriver in through here to aid snapring removal)
7 remove snap ring 2
7 remove the speedometer drive gear
8 remove the final snapring
9 hammer out the rear output shaft
10 remove the oil seal yay!
11 remove dust deflectors from shaft and rear output shaft and replace (this is optional, they are cheap but difficult to hammer the new ones back in place as they bend easily. you will need to find something that will distribute pressure on them evenly when hammering in something flat will not do i used a very tough cardboard tube)
12 if you want to change the bearing now is the time to do it (i didnt bother as it seemed in great condition, also i had no idea the 2 were linked) thats after you remove another snapring.
reassembly is the reverse of removal.
enjoy
Basicaly to change this cheap 8 or 9 quid seal you need to do the following:
1 remove rear prop from TC
2 remove rear transfer case extension housing (the rear part of the TC) oh and drain the oil first
3 now working on the rear extension housing remove the first snap ring
4 remove the viscous coupling
5 remove the separator and oil pump plate by undoing 3 bolts
6 remove speedometer form the housing (now you can poke a screwdriver in through here to aid snapring removal)
7 remove snap ring 2
7 remove the speedometer drive gear
8 remove the final snapring
9 hammer out the rear output shaft
10 remove the oil seal yay!
11 remove dust deflectors from shaft and rear output shaft and replace (this is optional, they are cheap but difficult to hammer the new ones back in place as they bend easily. you will need to find something that will distribute pressure on them evenly when hammering in something flat will not do i used a very tough cardboard tube)
12 if you want to change the bearing now is the time to do it (i didnt bother as it seemed in great condition, also i had no idea the 2 were linked) thats after you remove another snapring.
reassembly is the reverse of removal.
enjoy
i also need to do the rear diff oil seal will do this when i do the rear hubs. that one is easy as all you need to do is remove the prop, undo the bolt on the shaft, take out the oil seal and put new one in. You will need a new bolt as it needs staking.
Well thats the seal and bearing replaced 
Cant find my manual though so does anyone know how much oil goes in as i like to measure fluids when refilling? Can also throw it in the speedo drive.
Cant find my manual though so does anyone know how much oil goes in as i like to measure fluids when refilling? Can also throw it in the speedo drive.
Had a look under the LC today and it seemed a bit oily, 3 seals (front and rear diff + front TC) are sweaty but the rear TC seal is leaking again all over the awesome Gav PlateAndrew Prince said:I believe Rob has done this exercise(without doing the bearing
Andrew where did you find the info on the rear bearing causing the oil seal to fail? Would the a blocked TC breather have more to do with this than the bearing? Or was it the Gav Plate?
Hi Rob,
That's a bummer about the leaks - I see that my rear diff seal is weeping too, so I share your pain T/case output seal is nice and dry though. I wonder whether my leak is related to the t/case one (over-greasing propshaft....?)
Most of the info I got on the t/case output bearing stems from MUD - mainly this thread.
This MUD thread gives a nice description on how to do the job for anyone interested..
I also came across this thread on LCOOL.
To answer your question, there is nothing I found that categorically links a failing bearing with a seal leak. I think a blocked t/case breather would be a good place to start
As with my case, what has caused the seals on the diffs to go simultaneously? Coincidence or linked - you don't have a linked set of breathers for axles, t/case etc by any chance?
Cheers,
That's a bummer about the leaks - I see that my rear diff seal is weeping too, so I share your pain
T/case output seal is nice and dry though. I wonder whether my leak is related to the t/case one (over-greasing propshaft....?)Most of the info I got on the t/case output bearing stems from MUD - mainly this thread.
This MUD thread gives a nice description on how to do the job for anyone interested..
I also came across this thread on LCOOL.
To answer your question, there is nothing I found that categorically links a failing bearing with a seal leak. I think a blocked t/case breather would be a good place to start
As with my case, what has caused the seals on the diffs to go simultaneously? Coincidence or linked - you don't have a linked set of breathers for axles, t/case etc by any chance?Cheers,
Sorry to hear this Rob. I know that when mine went it was all breather related...... Hope you get it sorted.Rob said:
I had the self same leaks on my 70 series SWB cruiser.
Talking to an old pal of mine, who now works for Toyota..
He mentioned the fact that he thought, that as I had been off roading with a bit of gusto...........gusto is what kills cars...apparently..
if the sliders on the props are partially siezed, or full of old congealed grease, you wont get full movement and the props will push against the diff and tansfer case bearings, causing them to fail and leak.
I digress....he told me to check the travel on the prop shaft sliders....when I checked, I had both props locking before full travel.
Pulled them apart and cleaned out the splines and reciever, drilled a small hole in the reciever part, to allow the slider to react quicker and re-assemble with a SMALL amount of grease on slider and refit..............I managed to get another two inches of travel on the sliders.
Talking to an old pal of mine, who now works for Toyota..
He mentioned the fact that he thought, that as I had been off roading with a bit of gusto...........gusto is what kills cars...apparently..
if the sliders on the props are partially siezed, or full of old congealed grease, you wont get full movement and the props will push against the diff and tansfer case bearings, causing them to fail and leak.
I digress....he told me to check the travel on the prop shaft sliders....when I checked, I had both props locking before full travel.
Pulled them apart and cleaned out the splines and reciever, drilled a small hole in the reciever part, to allow the slider to react quicker and re-assemble with a SMALL amount of grease on slider and refit..............I managed to get another two inches of travel on the sliders.