Wheel issue - maybe bearing?

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Guest

Guest
This afternoon I noticed a rubbing sound emanating from the front n/s wheel
when I applied the brakes. When I opened the passenger window to hear better
I noticed that there was a continual noise, sort of a rubbing grating
metallic sound that got louder when I applied the brakes (or maybe applying
the brakes caused a separate additional sound?). Before I opened the window
to listen I could only hear the increased volume, not the steady state
sound.
I have had no chance to look at it this afternoon and I'm out mountain
biking most of tomorrow so it looks as if I'm going to have to wait till
Monday at the earliest before I can get the wheel off to have a look see.
I haven't been anywhere recently that could have resulted in mud or grit
trapped around the disc and as far as I know this noise started today, not
the last time I used which was Thursday evening.
I'm wondering if a wheel bearing about to give up would make that sort of
noise Or any other thoughts in advance of me getting the wheel off?
Pete
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Pete
Maybe even lift the front end and try the 12 and 6 oclock pull.
This may reveal something to you.
Although if its only there when you apply the brakes it could be the brakes but then it could be that applying the brakes is causing the sound by putting added pressure at the top of the hub.
Or it could be a bit of grit.
Remember my noise at the front that turned out to be very loose bearings and when I applied my brakes the brake disc was hitting off the caliper at intervals.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Browning
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 9:37 PM
Subject: [ELCO] Wheel issue - maybe bearing?
This afternoon I noticed a rubbing sound emanating from the front n/s wheel when I applied the brakes. When I opened the passenger window to hear better I noticed that there was a continual noise, sort of a rubbing grating metallic sound that got louder when I applied the brakes (or maybe applying the brakes caused a separate additional sound?). Before I opened the window to listen I could only hear the increased volume, not the steady state sound.

I have had no chance to look at it this afternoon and I'm out mountain biking most of tomorrow so it looks as if I'm going to have to wait till Monday at the earliest before I can get the wheel off to have a look see.

I haven't been anywhere recently that could have resulted in mud or grit trapped around the disc and as far as I know this noise started today, not the last time I used which was Thursday evening.

I'm wondering if a wheel bearing about to give up would make that sort of noise Or any other thoughts in advance of me getting the wheel off?

Pete
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G

Guest

Guest
Yes but wahtever you do resiste the temptation to put grease on the brakes!
2008/4/12, john byrne <[Email address removed]>:
 
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Guest

Guest
Hi John
Yes, I will lift the front but I have no chance to do anything before
Monday.
It's not just there when I apply the brakes, it's there all the time but
louder (or another separate noise) when I apply the brakes.
Pete
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 12 April 2008 22:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Wheel issue - maybe bearing?
Hey Pete
Maybe even lift the front end and try the 12 and 6 oclock pull.
This may reveal something to you.
Although if its only there when you apply the brakes it could be the brakes
but then it could be that applying the brakes is causing the sound by
putting added pressure at the top of the hub.
Or it could be a bit of grit.
Remember my noise at the front that turned out to be very loose bearings and
when I applied my brakes the brake disc was hitting off the caliper at
intervals.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
Peter wrote...
I noticed that there was a continual noise, sort of a rubbing grating
metallic sound that got louder when I applied the brakes (or maybe applying
the brakes caused a separate additional sound?). Before I opened the window
to listen I could only hear the increased volume,
SNIP
Peter, let's go beyond the usual pad wear/loose bearing issues.
Yes, they will be the most common causes I agree, but if you waggle
the wheel and all seems fine, and the pads look OK, then you might
have the dreaded loose caliper bolts. The caliper is working OK but
the top edge of it is rubbing on the edge of the disc, especially
when you apply the brakes. The bolts may appear to be in place but
are not tight, with often the top one loose in the caliper.
This often happens on the N/S wheel as it has the long driveshaft
with the slight extra vibration that causes the shaft seal to wear,
as you know. If the caliper bolts are not constantly kept at torque
this also destroys the threads, not causing them to strip but just
takes the point off each thread causing them to loosen. This is a
point that experienced Toy mechanics will know about and subsequently
check the tightness of the bolts when servicing. I have seen some
vehicles with the bolt heads drilled and wired for this reason. If it
is the case then the only cure is to drill out the holes in the hub
casting and caliper to accept new 14mm bolts in newly cut threads.
But I hope its not so serious for you.
A thought anyway.
Cheers
Jon
Linslade,Beds
With TLC fleet experience
 
G

Guest

Guest
Pete,
While the may be caused by a variety of things, the bet is that
it will be the pad rubbing on the disc. This can be caused by dirt in
and around the piston and bore not allowing the piston to retract, it
only retracts by a few thou. anyway. The only thing causing the piston
to retract is the flexibility of the rubber seals in the bore, if
these seals are old and hardened the dirt will have more of an effect.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Peter wrote....
Jon - if it is the loose caliper bolt thingy:
a) How will I know? Yes I know the bolts will be loose but how will I know
if the bolts are knackered?
b) And if they are knackered can't I simply use new bolts?
SNIP
Peter, let us hope it is not. But its the usual alternative when all
- outwardly anyway - appears OK. And you know me, I like to help with
looking at the possibilities of alternative problems ;-)
a) When you get them out (and I have known them to come out with
fingers only) you will see the bolt has a polished appearance and the
threads will be somewhat truncated. The shank of the bolt under the
head will be very shiny too.
b) No, the bolts are a lot harder than the casting into which they
are threaded - the steering knuckle - therefore the casting threads
wear quickly. So in order to get the right size for re-tapping, the
knuckle has to come off and be securely clamped squarely under a
pillar drill. The tapping size drill required is barely bigger than
the existing void now that the top edge of each thread is worn away,
but putting a drill in from ground level in-situ will only result in
a skewed hole into which you will then possibly tap a thread which is
not at 90 degrees to the casting.
The hole in the caliper is just drilled out to the tapping size of
the new bolt (a 14mm in my experience) . The next problem is
clearance for the new bolt head - which is bigger of course - and a
socket driving it in. As you will have noticed, some metric bolts
have a smaller head size than others, e.g. a 12mm bolt sometimes has
a smaller 17mm head rather than a more conventional 19mm head. A 14mm
bolt can come as a 19mm or larger, so try and find a couple with the
19mm or you will have to do some precision grinding of the flats !
But again, let us hope its a more simple problem. But be assured that
there are a lot of 80's and 70's out there with this modification,
usually in conditions where drivers and mechanics are not so careful
with their vehicles as we are !
Cheers
Jon
Linslade,Beds
With TLC fleet experience
PS. ROY, please don't hit 'reply' and then post as it causes havoc
with the digest version. Cut and paste your responses please?
 
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