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Who is doing what maintenance today?

I topped the screen wash up, put some fuel in and that's about it lol.
 
A few jobs on Silver Phoenix today. Fixed central locking so 3 doors work, utilised the skills of Nick to break into the rear passenger door so need another mech to fix. Drilled and extracted snapped drive flange studs. Found why horn packed in, found my abs fault, tidied up the many cables on the battery terminals. Tomorrow is rear axle oil seal and try and get Lodar remote to work (might be simple as new battery).
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Wtf?!!
 
Summat odd with that camera, makes me look 12 and brought out my feminine side. Didn’t disguise the oddball gene though
 
Hi Shayne. I am pleased to read this, my Toyota passed its MOT today, with a couple of advisories, one of which is slight play in nearside steering rack mount. I haven't yet had the opportunity to crawl under to check it out, but how bloody difficult is it to do this on one's Jack Jones?

Hi Bert , just seen this , its not a difficult job so much as time consuming , undo the tie rods , and the fluid feed pipes and 3 big bolts hold the rack on , undoing the bar link up to the steering wheel was if i recall the fiddliest bit but i have a spacer in there to match with the body lift . Once you get at it everything is self explanatory and its pretty much impossible to do it wrong .

Be a very easy job if you could stand up and do it so it might be worth paying a garage for an hours work rather than wasting a day crawling around .
 
.....Be a very easy job if you could stand up and do it so it might be worth paying a garage for an hours work rather than wasting a day crawling around .

You know Shane, I do get fed up lying on my back in the garden, cold, crappy and wet, so I think I'll ask the garage for a quote.... see if that is more of an attractive option.

Cheers,
Simon
 
As Shayne said, it's not a difficult job. If you decide to do it yourself, one thing to bear in mind is that the nut on the bolt that goes vertically through the rack is welded to the cross member, it has to be undone from the top. From memory, if it's just the split bush that goes round the rack that needs replacing, once you get the top bolt out (fair old bit of torque needed on that one), the long horizontal one loosened and the clamp off, there's enough room with a bit of prising and jiggling to get the new bush on, no need to dismantle further or take the rack etc. right off. This was on the petrol model, but I think the diesel would be much the same. Garage is a fair option though !
 
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As Shayne said, it's not a difficult job....

Hi Flint. Looking through the manual, the nut you are referring to is item 165 (1,700,123) on the drawing below, and the long horizontal one is shown as assembly 190 (1,950,141) ?
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I couldn't shift that bolt at all when I tried last year, big breaker bars didn't get it moving nor did heat, so I just left it alone.

You can replace the big bush on the NS easily but removing the big bolt to give a little wiggle room will make life more straight forward
 
the nut you are referring to is item 165 (1,700,123) on the drawing

No, it's what the bolt 165 (1,700,123) goes into. The other one (190 (1,950, 141)) is right. I had to use a breaker bar with a bit of scaffold tube and much grunting to shift the top one.
 
Nothing I've done other than book it into local auto box specialist for a transmission service.
 
ATF changed.
ATF filter changed.
Autobox/valve body checked over.
Diff oils changed.
Transfer box oil changed.
 
What were the specs and quantities used?

5.1l of Dexron VI for the transmission. It's the equivalent of Toyota ATF WS. They used 5.1l as they dropped the pan and the valve body, and replaced the filter. Max you'd get with a normal drain and refill is 3.0l.

1.5l of Synthetic Hypoid Gear Oil API GL-5 75W-90 for Transfer Box.
Toyota

4l (in total) of Hypoid Gear Oil API GL-5 80W-90 for both diffs.
The front diff oil was awful so they used an additional litre to help flush a load of crap out of it.
 
Removed all the door cards and lubricated locks door handles hinges etc as the winter grime has taken its toll and gummed everything up.
Now the handles spring back in which is a novelty!!
A very satisfying result for 45mins work
 
Really useful info. Does it feel any different and most importantly how much was it?

Certainly feels smoother, but that could just be the placebo effect. Doesn't seem to hold on to gears as long as it used to, which is good.

It was £250 all in. That includes transmision filter and sump gasket. I supplied some of the diff/TB oil, but they supplied all of the ATF and 1l of diff oil. If it was just the gearbox service then it would have been about £205. They had it for about 3 hours.

For me it was worth it as I've been strugglig to find the time and opportunity to do it, more oil gets changed in teh box, and it's an opportunity for the gearbox to get a look at be someone who knows them.

I used Chester Automatic Transmission Centre which is near Hawarden/Broughton nr. Chester.
 
Replaced the rear wheel bearings and seals, for what reason I'm not sure. Just for peace of mind as I've never had the inner ones out. There wasn't a mark on any of them but at that point I was changing them anyway. Straight forward, nothing broke and no blood was drawn.

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The drivers window has been playing up lately in not going down without pressing the switch to the 'auto full down' position. Sorted it today, it was the usual dirty contacts. I now have another problem with the nearside rear window in that it won't go up. It hasn't closed from the drivers console for a while, only goes down but always went either way from the rear door switch. Now it goes down only from either switch so I was stuck with a rear window almost fully open. Why do these things always go wrong when it's dark ! The switches simply reverse the polarity to the motor. It's not the switch 'cos I swapped the two rear ones round to prove them. On the up stroke there is no - (earth) to the motor, only +12v. Had to remove the door trim panel to apply power to the motor connector to get the damn thing back up. I think the windows have an ECU somewhere. Must remember not to use that window until I've fixed it!

Oh, and also managed to blow the 30A fuse during 'diagnostics'. One of those J types which I didn't have to hand so had to solder in a temp blade fuse.
 
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The drivers window has been playing up lately in not going down without pressing the switch to the 'auto full down' position. Sorted it today, it was the usual dirty contacts. I now have another problem with the nearside rear window in that it won't go up. It hasn't closed from the drivers console for a while, only goes down but always went either way from the rear door switch. Now it goes down only from either switch so I was stuck with a rear window almost fully open. Why do these things always go wrong when it's dark ! The switches simply reverse the polarity to the motor. It's not the switch 'cos I swapped the two rear ones round to prove them. On the up stroke there is no - (earth) to the motor, only +12v. Had to remove the door trim panel to apply power to the motor connector to get the damn thing back up. I think the windows have an ECU somewhere. Must remember not to use that window until I've fixed it!

Oh, and also managed to blow the 30A fuse during 'diagnostics'. One of those J types which I didn't have to hand so had to solder in a temp blade fuse.
The ecu is in the drivers door 'int it?
 
Just looked at the FSM and it appears there isn't an 'ECU' as such but all the other switches are fed from the drivers door master switch console so could well be a problem there. Looks fairly simple as wiring diagrams go so will get the meter out tomorrow.
 
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