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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Relocated the trailer to make way for the cruiser in the shed. As it's now a weekend warrior at best, this is the only way I can save it from the advances of the rusty goblin.


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How does that happen

Well its a mystery for me too. Car is on level surface on straight part of my driveway.
cold fill to the bottom
Could be this or could be that excess oil filled by the previous garage is forcing itself out somehow. Initially, I was over-obsessed with perfection but now I am a bit relaxed. Until now I changed engine oil every 2.8K miles. 5 changes in 14000 miles. Now I will relax and change every 5000 miles.

Another thing I noticed is prices increased a lot. Power steering fluid is more expensive than AHC fluid. AHC fluid was around 80£ for 4 lit. PS fluid is around 40£ per lit.
Even for Toyota's engine oil, the non-trade price is 85.58£ +VAT for 5 lit 5w30 oil. Next time I ll look for other options.

Did anyone try such alternatives? Its specs are the same and its 99£ for 20 lt.

Total QUARTZ INEO ECS 5W-30 Low SAPS Engine Oil ACEA C2 PSA PEUGEOT CITROËN B71 2290 - 20 Litre Quartz Bag in Box​

 
It's the specs that really count Raj, don't get obsessed by brand loyalty.
In the motorcycle world you can now get engine oil "specially formulated for V twins". Must be the new "intelligent" oil that knows how many cylinders you've got! :laughing-rolling:
 
Came to change the oil on the 80 this morning and was presented with this:-
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the throttle position cable had seized in the wide open position. After a futile attempt at freeing it off with maintenance spray I did get it to free up to a degree but it didn't snap back like it should so it needs replacing. I remember Chris trying the same thing unsuccessfully years ago so I didn't hold much hope. Luckily I have a perfect one on a breaker with the engine already out but the autobox sump needs to be dropped to change it. A job for another day.

However I did get the oil changed which was straight forward as always.
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Changed with genuine filter ( the only one to use) and semi synthetic 15w40.
 
Andy, i bought a replacement from Mr T after you pointed out mine, cant remember how many arms and legs it cost but for anyone else who needs one Amayama do it for bugger all if you dont mind the wait.
 
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Andy, i bought a replacement from Mr T after you pointed out mine, cant remember how many arms and legs it cost but for anyone else who needs one Amayama do it for bugger all if you dont mind the wait.

Cheers Nick, it looks like part number 35520-60060. It looks to be not cheap on Toyodiy it looks like $108 but I seem to recollect Chris paying about £70 for his. Be interesting to see what Amayama's price would be though.
 
Fitted a replacement washer bottle today, thanks to Garry at 80 breakers. Now to find a way to stop it happening again.
 
Amayama do it for bugger all

Yep Nick I ordered one, due early March, vast saving over Mr T, like £130 less. I've had a look at the fixing loop on top of the autobox on one with no engine in place. That looks fun, in fact I doubt it can be done from the top at all with the engine in place. I might cut the old cable around the fixing and tiewrap the new cable side by side to the remains of the old one.
Anyhow have been productive today on the 80. The front wipers have got quite slow of late so I took the motor off for a look. Took the cover off to find the magnets had come unstuck and stuck together therefore acting as one. Stuck them back in place reassembled and replaced , it worked but parked in the wrong place. Fitted a spare one, all good.
The rear wiper hadn't worked for a while so I had a look at that. Wasn't seized on the spindle and all looked good. Tested electrics , no continuity to earth. Little wire from a mounting bolt to motor body, works like a champ.

Recently while green laneing it was pointed out I had no front recovery points. I had various options, fit some pigtail things from a spares truck, I also had on a shelf for at least 2 decades some 40 series recovery hooks and also a bracket which came off a DAF truck which also had been on the same shelf which I knew one day would come in.
The 40 hook needed one hole enlarging to suit the 80 bolt centres by 1mm and I had to drill the DAF bracket b( one hole)
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The DAF one, I figured that one can have a shackle attached. If it'll not bend with an 18 tonne truck then there's not much chance of it failing pulling the 80 out.

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The 40 series Hook one, this can take a loop attachment. I should imagine that might take a bit of straightening.

Now I'm on with fitting an ARB twin cyl compressor just next to the ABS unit. Only half way through that job so pics to follow.
 
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Seized rear calliper, hadn’t noticed it going but by the time I did it was too late so new calliper, disks and pads both sides. At least it was a quick and easy job!
 
Changed power steering fluid. From the stuff that came out, I think it was about time...
 

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Wee update on the work on what was my old landcruiser that i sold 7 years ago and my nephew bought back about 2 weeks or so ago.

Replaced brake and clutch fluids

Stripped handbrakes and inspected - on drives side the rear shoe was set crooked and had excess wear on the outer edge, and had scored the inner surface of the drum. Reset that then set up the adjuster and then the inside adjustment. now it has a reasonable handbrake again.

Removed the extra gauges - egt, and boost gauge. fixed the broken wires to get them working, tidied up the wiring and cable tied it out of harms way and behind the carpet. tidied up the piece of aluminium that was used as a mount and sprayed it matt black, refitted to truck using black speed screws to replace the 2 wood screws that had been used.

Replaced coolant

Replace brake and clutch fluids, both were pretty black

Replaced oils in both diffs, transfer case and gearbox

Freed off brake slides

New timing belt and tensioner

Replaced the power steering ATF - smelled pretty burned

Reset bearing preload nearside front - was way out - when i got to the inner nut it was loose and could be tightened or loosed with my finger tips. All sorted now.

Greased Ujs and slip joints

Replaced front propshaft uj that had failed. The old unit had no grease nipple so must have been changed since my ownership previously. New grease-able unit fitted. The old one took a fair but of encouragement to remove with a hammer and then a grinder, but it eventually compiled with the eviction notice.


The truck drives smoother and quieter now and stops better as well.

Still to do - there will be more, this if the stuff we noticed as we are working around the truck

Inspect and reset drivers side wheel bearing pre-load (based on experience with the nearside)

Rebuild kits for front and rear brakes. the piston boots look in pretty poor shape now.

inspect the front diff lock - looks like it is weeping diff oil from the mating surface with the diff casing

Fit new glow plugs

Trace back the extra wiring in the engine bay and remove unnecessary.

Fit waterproof connectors to the remaining “new” wiring replacing the cheap plastic ones that have been used.

Fix led reversing light drivers wide on the kaymar back bumper, and get the led work light working that sits above the rear mounted spare.

Leaking valve on the n/s/r wheel

Wire brush and then treat underside with hydrate 80

inspect and come up with a plan for the rust on the bodywork

Come up with a plan for the bars (that look like scaffold tubing to me) that run from the front bumper to the side steps. The side steps were described as rock sliders. but rather than mount them to the chassis legs, the sills were cut out and replaced with box section, and then the “sliders” welded to that. So as Julian V mentioned, not ideal. This direct link to the front bumper also needs, I think, some kind of firebreak. A reasonable front impact could send the shock straight along into the new box section sills and thus the body.

Thus far am well pleased with the efforts of 2 days working with my nephew who is keen to learn about his new truck and work on it.
 
Finally got the power steering and brake fluids also replaced. At last, I completed my target of changing every single fluid in the car. I will change them all again in 3-4 years' time. Some fluids like Diff fluid, PS, and brake fluids were good but for my peace of mind and record, I just changed them. I expected the car to drive differently after all these fluids changed but its the same. At least I know what's in this car :). At least now I will freeze the spending budget on Landcruiser.
 
Finally got the power steering and brake fluids also replaced. At last, I completed my target of changing every single fluid in the car. I will change them all again in 3-4 years' time. Some fluids like Diff fluid, PS, and brake fluids were good but for my peace of mind and record, I just changed them. I expected the car to drive differently after all these fluids changed but its the same. At least I know what's in this car :). At least now I will freeze the spending budget on Landcruiser.

It may drive the same Raj but regular fluid changes will keep it driving the same.:thumbup:
 
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