Yes Clive, peace of mind is the key. I've been paranoid about every single sound from the engine since reading about the problem. The change won't be a moment too soon I can tell you.
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Beb replacement
- Thread starter john.c
- Start date
So, all BEBs replaced now. Twice…,as checked each one with Plastigauge…which is made not 3 miles from me 
.
Every one was the same. 0.050 which is within the STD tolerance.
No shell that I removed 'needed' replacing, however none of them looked new either. All crank pins were smooth as silk.
Finished too late and too knackered to put the sump pan back on. Job for tomorrow.
. Every one was the same. 0.050 which is within the STD tolerance.
No shell that I removed 'needed' replacing, however none of them looked new either. All crank pins were smooth as silk.
Finished too late and too knackered to put the sump pan back on. Job for tomorrow.
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Aha, I decided to do the whole job without removing the pick up pipe. I just cable tied a plastic bag over it. It didn't get in the way to any noticing everyone degree and will keep the oil in there for swift pick up on starting. I intend removing the plug from the diesel pump and cranking for about 20 seconds or so to make sure I get oil pressure.
Thanks for the warning though Dave. I guess you speak from experience.
Thanks for the warning though Dave. I guess you speak from experience.
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All done now, sump back on and sealed. Running well and sounding good.
Unfortunately the bag round the pick up didn't work. Would have been fine if I'd chosen a bag devoid of holes so the first ten minutes this morning was spent mopping up the rather large amount of oil that was mentioned above which had decided to leave the pick up pipe overnight.
With existing BEBs good and new ones, well, better and new, this leaves the question as to why my engine has over the last few months begun to give more vibration than I have been used to. Injectors maybe? I cannot believe it would be a ring but on turning the engine over on the pulley after changing the shells, there did seem to be more of a Darth Vader breathing sound coming from the front of the engine than the rest.
Any ideas anyone? Potential for a new thread here.
Unfortunately the bag round the pick up didn't work. Would have been fine if I'd chosen a bag devoid of holes so the first ten minutes this morning was spent mopping up the rather large amount of oil that was mentioned above which had decided to leave the pick up pipe overnight.
With existing BEBs good and new ones, well, better and new, this leaves the question as to why my engine has over the last few months begun to give more vibration than I have been used to. Injectors maybe? I cannot believe it would be a ring but on turning the engine over on the pulley after changing the shells, there did seem to be more of a Darth Vader breathing sound coming from the front of the engine than the rest.
Any ideas anyone? Potential for a new thread here.
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You'll never get the oil stains out of your vest 
. Well I didn't.
Any chance of a recording of that noise?
. Well I didn't.Any chance of a recording of that noise?
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Hmm yes the overalls did suffer. But with a bit of wiping of oil drips and the bag over the pick up, I got away lightly. The worst was after turning the crank to line up the next bearing.
A recording of the sound would have been useful now you mention it. But as the sump pan is back on and I didn't take a video of it I'm afraid we're out of luck. Hindsight can be a wonderful thing.
A recording of the sound would have been useful now you mention it. But as the sump pan is back on and I didn't take a video of it I'm afraid we're out of luck. Hindsight can be a wonderful thing.
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I re-read your post. It's quite normal for hissing sounds when you turn the engine over. There is a quick compression test you can do to make sure all cylinders are equal. If you disconnect the wire to the back of the fuel pump, or use some other method to stop the engine firing, and crank the engine you should here equal sounding compression strokes. A weak one, or two, will be obvious. As in:-
Slow Slow Slow Slow Slow Quick Slow Slow Slow Slow Slow Quick.
All over the place with some worn out petrol engines I've tested.
Slow Slow Slow Slow Slow Quick Slow Slow Slow Slow Slow Quick.
All over the place with some worn out petrol engines I've tested.
Thanks Frank. Yes, I have come to expect this at low speed and understand, however it did seem to be more pronounced from the front.
I like the idea of the cranking test and will give that a go if I can find the right plug to disconnect. I had all intentions of disconnecting the pump on start up but only succeeded in disconnecting something to do with the auto box as it fired up instantly as normal.
I like the idea of the cranking test and will give that a go if I can find the right plug to disconnect. I had all intentions of disconnecting the pump on start up but only succeeded in disconnecting something to do with the auto box as it fired up instantly as normal.
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There would have been enough oil when the crankshaft started to turn and come out through the oil holes and before oil pressure had built up so you will not have damaged the BEBs.
My pal builds and runs rally cars and that was exactly what he said. Pressure built up in about 3 to 5 seconds and has been holding well, slightly above what it was before the change.
The vibration issue is worse after start up and not to bad once warm and run for a long time. I believe there is a cold start device on the pump and of course various diaphragms to perish after 21 years so I suspect it may be worth me taking a look at these items.
I do get a little white smoke which clears out on revving after idling and I've always had eye stinging exhaust at idle.
The vibration issue is worse after start up and not to bad once warm and run for a long time. I believe there is a cold start device on the pump and of course various diaphragms to perish after 21 years so I suspect it may be worth me taking a look at these items.
I do get a little white smoke which clears out on revving after idling and I've always had eye stinging exhaust at idle.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Some engine builders recommend using assembly paste. I just made up a mixture of 1 part engine oil, 1 part STP, one part Molyslip in an oil can and coated the crankpins and BEB surfaces just prior to assembly. All you're after is something to 'stick' to the shells and lube them for the first few seconds after startup. If the oil pump is healthy the pressure will build up rapidly. JMO
My thoughts (backed up by my pal) were that after an oil and filter change there's a few seconds wait for the filter to fill with oil before oil pressure builds to normal. Having not drained the oil galleries, or at least only slightly, and having well coated the crank pin and bearing in the cap with oil that oozed out after torquing up, I figured the shells had a pretty good start in their new home.
Had I stripped the entire engine and rebuilt with clean oil free parts, then I would say something more would be a good idea or, as I did with my Smart engine, run for a while with the plugs out (heater plugs or injectors in this case) using a drill on low speed to get the oil circulating. Using a special blend or compound can only ensure things are ok…more, I guess, and if it's on your shelf, why not use it, belt and braces I suppose.
Had I stripped the entire engine and rebuilt with clean oil free parts, then I would say something more would be a good idea or, as I did with my Smart engine, run for a while with the plugs out (heater plugs or injectors in this case) using a drill on low speed to get the oil circulating. Using a special blend or compound can only ensure things are ok…more, I guess, and if it's on your shelf, why not use it, belt and braces I suppose.
one of my boys started a drift spec Nissan Skyline, that had just had a new crank fitted......
had NO OIL in it!!!! ran it for nearly a minute before he realised!!
there was no damage to the engine, all parts had been coated in GRAPHOGEN.
IT IS SUPERB STUFF!
had NO OIL in it!!!! ran it for nearly a minute before he realised!!
there was no damage to the engine, all parts had been coated in GRAPHOGEN.
IT IS SUPERB STUFF!
Owwww that must have been a nasty sinking feeling in the pit of his stomach when he realised! I wouldn't like to have been in his shoes.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
I've seen this done to engines by mistake between routine oil changes and they still ran OK afterwards. Scored bearings/journals won't be obvious without an engine strip. JMO
Does anyone remember the VW Beetle that was run across some desert in America with no engine oil after being treated with an additive? Not 100% sure but it may have been Slick 50.
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Someone told me about an additive tow pack. Wasn't slick 50 I was told but another brand. Ill have to find out what it was. Engines can run for a fair length of Time with these types of additives in.
Molyslip was used in cab engines (after they were run in) and they lasted for donkey's years/miles, IIRC a few years later Slick 50 came on the scene and got slated when it was found the molybdenum particle/flake micron size was too big for many oil filters and effectively blocked them. Nowadays I think quality machining along with quality oils has pretty much left the additives on the shelf, JMO.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
Wasn't me but Activ8 is another one you see at the shows sometimes.
