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Engine vibration 1HD-T

I use all general purpose silicone rubber sealer. You'll need a gun as well if so. You can use silicone on the exhaust and turbo flanges as well. Very heat resistant. Degrease all surfaces well. After using mine I wrap masking tape over the end of the nozzle and keep it in the fridge, otherwise the whole tube goes hard.
 
I visited S&S Diesels again today and had the injectors tested along with a scan on our Space Star.

They tested all 6 and found two with fuel dribbling. One was leaking so badly they couldn't test it properly as they suspected I had got dirt in it taking it out despite the precautions. The other 4 were ok but not brilliant. So, booked them in to be reconditioned after being given the price of £75.50 each (all prices plus VAT, BTW). I'm very impressed with these people. They don't say an awful lot but when they do they give the impression that you're in good hands and are very knowledgeable.

Well the old girl is 21 this year so this can be a birthday present!!

Now to see if I can find some 18mm ID O rings at 2.5mm section rather than pay Toy £25 for 6!!
 
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Well done! Hope it cures your vibration. I'm sure it will.

I think there is a small filter in the injector itself. Protocol requires filtration at many points. The filter in the injector protects it if a small amount of swarf or dirt gets in at the pipe/injector nut. Obviously this joint by design itself causes swarf as there is friction in the threads.

There are the following filters:-

1. Funnel into tank (0ptional).
2. Tank pick up pipe.
3. Main fuel filter.
4. Fuel entry point into pump.
5. Injectors (on 24 valve at least).
 
Thanks Frank, I hope to share your enthusiasm one day very soon but after the saga of the Smart car, I don't get my hopes up too much these days. Though I must admit I am pretty confident. Ian at S&S was full of caution in telling me what they had found so we will have to wait and see. They are going to replace nozzles and recondition so they should be like new.

I have managed to find Viton O rings on eBay at a fraction of the cost Mr T wants for them. The actual measurement is 18.8 x 2.5 and I have managed to find 18.5 ID ones here.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=371328174022&globalID=EBAY-GB

Should be with me Friday. [emoji3]

I see your point re the filtering, so I'm surprised that something got into the injector before testing. The proof of the pudding is very firmly in the eating on this one but at least something meaningful has been found, rather than a line of text on a computer!
 
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Well, at least it will be one off the list of elimination, but with them finding fault with the old injectors, it's a sign that this will have cracked it!
 
I'd like to read about your smart car saga but can't find it.

Looking forward to a Rave Review on injectors Friday evening or this weekend.

Sounds like they needed doing anyway.
 
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Ahh, the smart car…no not written about it yet as I still have it. Maybe need to write it down to cleanse my soul!!

Looking forward to the same Frank. And it'll probably have to wait till the weekend too as I'm not sure I'll get all the bits back and get them back in by then. It would be good as I've got a run to Hassocks to do Friday night.

I just need to look up about refitting them, any tips, tightening torque for the bolts, that sort of thing. Anyone point me in the right direction?
 
I've never taken Toyota ones out but refitting should be in the manual at the top of the page. I suppose one should check for dirt down the hole. I know it's vital for the copper washer to seat cleanly on to both the head and the injector otherwise the injector may overheat. I've failed on that before. I set out from Gloucester but broke down at Jamaica Inn, Bodmin Moor, in a blizzard and nearly died. Hitch hiked to Falmouth, borrowed a car then back to the diesel shop in Bristol. Fitted new injectors in -8 C and strong winds 1 minute work outside then 10 minutes in the car with the heater on. The SAS training team were the only people there and they towed me 5 miles before the engine fired it was so cold.
 
Jeepers that's a hard lesson learned!! I'll give the holes a clean. I've already vacuumed them out…by feel, but it looks like I need to do much better than that.

Thanks, I'll look in the manual, I haven't seen the main site much as I use Tapatalk.
 
Also check the spill pipe has new washers especially if inside the rocker cover. I managed to cock this up as well and ended up with a sump full of diesel. I wondered why the fuel gauge was dropping like a stone. :icon-biggrin:. I think if you learn a lesson the hard way your understanding of things is better. It gave the engine a real good wash out though.
 
Ohh Frank…I feel your pain!! Fortunately these are outside and yes I will be replacing them.
 
So, picked up the nice shiny injectors today. Washers and inlet manifold gaskets arrived from Toy and O rings from eBay. Managed to change the inlet manifold gaskets without fully removing the inlet manifold. Removed all the studs, cleaned the inlet faces both sides with some clean rag around a paint scraper, drenched in brake cleaner twice then dry for a third time. Then put a smear of RTV sealant both sides and slipped them in. Managed to lose two studs down the side of the engine. Found one!! Got the injector holes cleaned with rolled up half sheet of aluminium oxide paper and a very good scrape with a screwdriver and vacuumed and blew them out. Fitted the injectors and everything else. Had to prime the system with quite a lot of pumps (wasn't expecting this- could this be an indication of something, as I expected the fuel to stay put not leak back).

Started it up after much cranking. And……


Runs nicely but, still vibrates!!!!!
Bugger!!!

So, filter in pump?
Or has cr@p got in the lines and gone straight back into the injectors?

Now, while cranking, there was unevenness in the sound. So, I think I will do the electrical compression test with my pal's scope.

I have now got the acrid exhaust back so the injectors did need a service. And I've done my weeping gaskets. So I'm only going to sulk for half an hour. [emoji22][emoji22][emoji22][emoji37][emoji36]
 
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And I ache all over and my knees are sore from kneeling on the engine and rad.

Tightening torque of the hold down nut is 39 Nm BTW.

Not happy!!!
 
What a nightmare!! I often have eneveness in cranking after working on sparking plug holes, inlet manifolds etc. It's caused by tiny dust particles on the exhaust valves and goes away a drive which beds them in.
 
If no joy after a run I would check the tappet clearances. I have seen incorrectly adjusted ones leaving one or more of the valves wedged slightly open. You don't have to adjust them per se but just make sure as you turn the engine over there is clearance on all valves.
 
Thanks for the info on dust under valves, I had wondered that and to have it confirmed is reassuring. I took it for a spin down the road and back, about a mile I suppose and it ran better after but I'm pretty sure it still vibrates. Even possibly more so than before (thinking that as the injectors are now at 100% then the fault is also at 100% if that makes sense).
I'll keep the valve clearances in the back of my mind for the mo, as there's no smoke and if compression were down in any way I'd surely have smoke at cold start and/or poor starting wouldn't I?
 
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I don't know about leaking valves on Toyota engines but on LR diesel they just ran rough with no other symptoms.
 
21 year old engine mounts ?

I should change mine for the same reason but i love the way it rocks the whole truck when i blip the throttle while waiting for the lights to change :icon-smile:
 
They're fine Shayne. And it's not that sort of vibration really. Yours just sound normal to me as far as rocking the truck goes.
 
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