tonytoyota
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- Sep 9, 2010
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Hi and welcome to the 40s you will have a lot of fun with it .
. You have to love a 40s.

Thanks Rodger!Congratulations LegoCruiser and welcome to the world of 40s.
IMO the basis is sound with just the body to sort out , so in the 40 world, no change there. It will take time and money but in the end you will have a great truck.
It may be worth trawling back through the 40 forum on here to see what people have been through. Try www.ih8mud.com - Thread: !OY Mark Coolermans build thread. Lots of great info on ih8mud but it can take a load searching but worth it.
Regards,
Rodger
So I tried to do a few checks today as you suggested plus with some you tube videos. The belt seems to have around a cm play up and down. Maybe a little more but it doesn’t slip when the angina is running as far as I can tell. I tested the voltage from the connector at the back of the alternator while running. It seems to be only 12.8V even at 2000rpm. I haven’t been able to find a date or open the battery to look for bubbles. I may try removing it to look all round but will try a drop test on the alternator next which a you tuber recommended.That does sound like it is alternator problem but check the fuseable link which should be next to the battery terminal and also the 'engine' fuse although with the HLs fading they are probably okay. Check the tightness of the belt with the engine off - it should have around a cm play up & down in the middle.
If I am reading this right the new battery shows Ov and won't accept the charge. That may suggest that the previous owner pumped a boost charge into an old but new looking battery... Are any of the cells showing bubbles? If so, it probably not very well. I think in an earlier post you said that it hadn't been run since 2018 - that will not have done the belts (dry out and shrink) any good. There should be a date on the new battery.
Aside from the problems that you encountered, did you enjoy it?!
Regards,
Rodger
Well done.OK panic over......I've decided to buy it, new battery has been installed by owner - hopefully collect in a couple of days! Very exciting!
So I am in good company then! Good idea keeping the old one - I see below Rodger recommends a couple of places for a new part - I guess they may also sell the refurbishment kit too.PS. I’ve kept the old alternator and after stripping down have ordered new brushes, rectifier and regulator, bearings are all good. Will then keep this as a back up as well, garage is full of bits I never throw away. Never know when you’ll need it!
Ha ha! No just cold hard Kronor!Well done.Did you pay with loo rolls. There as good as Gold Dust at the mo.
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Now, they are as good as gold dust,I will try and post some photos of the vehicle itself soon but meanwhile me and the kids were checking it out today and as well as a bunch of tools I found the original handbook and warranty booklet! From my reading it was purchased by the Australian Post Office (GPO) 17th May 1983. There's a bunch of other stuff from another owner in Victoria, AUS and of course Sweden. The handbook is really cool to have but I think I will also need some kind of workshop manual. Does anyone know if Haynes cover the 40 series or what do you use?
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Brilliant thanks - book ordered!Haynes manuals. 40 series.
The one I have covers 1968 thru 82, FJ40, 43, 45 & 55 FOR 3878CC and 4230CC.
ISBN 1 56392 023 9
Basically yours is the same but longer so 45 covers it and the updated one, post 82 will cover USA variants.
Megastore do s/h parts. But if it is going to be a little while before the truck is on the road why not just have your alternator reconditioned. I recently acquired a s/h alternator with an internal VR and before it arrived with me, it was shipped to Robson & Francis in the UK and they reconditioned it for me. Can supply their contact info although with current lock down I am not sure if they will be working.
Otherwise I think that there workshop manuals on here for the different models - yes check in 'downloads'
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Rodger