100 series - BEB's

[nathanrobo]

From your last post I think you are not far off knowing the answers NR. [emoji4]
Deglaze the bores, wash and scrub (buy a toilet brush that fits the bores snug) with fairy and water then dry. Reassemble. Mineral oil for the first 300 miles (or thereabouts, can be up to 500) to bed in.
Rig up something to drive the engine in the correct direction, a drill on a belt onto a pulley to rotate it at a low RPM is what I did with my Smart engine to start things off.
There's no heater plugs on your engine IIRC so injectors out as you say and it may be a good idea to give the fuel pump some fuel so it is lubricated internally and catch what fuel comes out.

Thanks for that! I'm collecting the block tomorrow with the crank and crankcase. They are also stripping the valves out, checking everything, cleaning the ports / valves and reassembling with new valve stem oil seals.

Hopefully on Sunday afternoon, I'll have the engine all painted up and begin reassembly on my engine frame. I'll take a couple of weeks at it as I want to do a perfect job. Going to rig up a large TV screen in the garage connected to a computer, which will allow me to look at the FSM without loose sheets all over the place

Will definitely put a fuel feed to the IP and figure a way to drive the pulley at low rpm to prime the oil pump.

I would really have liked to start the engine before putting it back in, but with the electronic IP on the FTE, it's just not gonna happen.

 

[StarCruiser]

Have you considered putting in the uprated pistons used in the EGR cleaner rebuild? Then the engine can be tweaked for more power. And if the cruiser is black it might just tempt Shayne into buying a 100. [emoji4]

 

[nathanrobo]

I'm not familiar with the EGR cleaner rebuild, but I guess, it would be bigger, stronger pistons, then an uprated turbo. I read somewhere that headwork (Porting / GFD) doesn't yield results with a diesel.

Probably too far down the road with the standard engine. Picked up the block cleaned and honed out with crank and camshaft.

 

[StarCruiser]

I believe the only difference internally between the marine Yanmar version and the standard Toy is the uprated pistons. Whether those used on that rebuild are the same I don't know but they did have steel lands between pistons and would be a straight swap with yours.

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56236

Post 62 links to the eBay ones I think Kev bought and fitted. I believe they were OEM spec except for the steel lands. Heumey and delboykev may be worth a PM re Yanmar piston differences and the Pistons bought respectively.

Just a thought, you're spending a tidy packet so could be worth considering for the cost involved, I believe better than £400.

 

[frank rabbets]

Double check they've cleaned out the oil ways. Shops did not years ago.

 

[nathanrobo]

I use a firm in Northampton, who are used by a number of the Motorsport companies based in the county to outsource their work. They are really rigorous with everything they do. I had previously used two other machine shops and returned stuff that had been poorly finished. But I've worked with Automotive Services (N'ton) for about 4 years now - completely trust their work

 

[nathanrobo]

I'm not familiar with the EGR cleaner rebuild, but I guess, it would be bigger, stronger pistons, then an uprated turbo. I read somewhere that headwork (Porting / GFD) doesn't yield results with a diesel.

Probably too far down the road with the standard engine. Picked up the block cleaned and honed out with crank and camshaft.

slept on the idea of the uprated pistons, but decided against it! This work will put the engine back to 'day one'. If I start uprating things, I end up on a tangent, spending a fortune on uprating the turbo, spending a day on the rolling road (getting it properly remapped). At the end of the day, when finished it will be sold.

 

[StarCruiser]

Fair enough, your call and all that but it's a lot of work to change the Pistons after its put back together and you could change them and stop at that. The turbo that's on it can be tweaked and so can the fuel but that's an afternoon's work with no expense. Might add to the desirability for the sale.

Just thinking its a net gain for all the work you've put in. I'll leave it there as I'm just saying.

 

[nathanrobo]

Fair enough, your call and all that but it's a lot of work to change the Pistons after its put back together and you could change them and stop at that. The turbo that's on it can be tweaked and so can the fuel but that's an afternoon's work with no expense. Might add to the desirability for the sale.

Just thinking its a net gain for all the work you've put in. I'll leave it there as I'm just saying.

can you expand a bit on tweaking the turbo and fuel? What's involved?

 

[StarCruiser]

In all honesty this is not something I have done personally but there is a fair amount of info on here about the 80 and 90. Not sure on the 100 but the principal has to be the same. There is a thread about putting washers under the turbo actuator and about screws on the pump and altering the boost fuelling by removing and rotating the diaphragm on top of the pump.
Best thing is to do a search I guess. The thing is, the Yanmar engines get over 300bhp out of the 24v engine with inter cooling and obvious cooling mods for water cooled exhausts etc.
One other mod is to have a stainless 3" exhaust made (this is for the 80) however I don't know if the 100 suffers the same strangulation the 80 does.
With luck someone who knows more about this may come along and post.

 

[nathanrobo]

In all honesty this is not something I have done personally but there is a fair amount of info on here about the 80 and 90. Not sure on the 100 but the principal has to be the same. There is a thread about putting washers under the turbo actuator and about screws on the pump and altering the boost fuelling by removing and rotating the diaphragm on top of the pump.
Best thing is to do a search I guess. The thing is, the Yanmar engines get over 300bhp out of the 24v engine with inter cooling and obvious cooling mods for water cooled exhausts etc.
One other mod is to have a stainless 3" exhaust made (this is for the 80) however I don't know if the 100 suffers the same strangulation the 80 does.
With luck someone who knows more about this may come along and post.

Not sure about the turbo on the 100 but the injector pump for sure is electronic fly-by-wire, very different from 80 /90 set up. I would imagine that the only way to alter fuelling would be with a custom map. I can find out about the other mods. With the tuned petrol engines that I have built, to get a performance benefit out of allowing the engine to breathe, everything else has to be done (valve timing events with a warm cam, carb jetting on rolling road, filter etc).

Besides the issues with the more complex electronic set up on the 100, I'm not sure how many perspective 100 buyers would value this work. Already since taking the car off the road and including the engine rebuild, I would have spent £11,500. That doesn't take into account the very serious overhauls that I have done in the past on the drive train, suspension & torque converter mod, just to mention a few.

 

[StarCruiser]

It was just a suggestion. Good luck with it.

 

[uHu]

According to what I've heard from fellow cruiserheads locally and on lcool, a bigger exhaust alone gives you more power; especially faster power, in that the turbo spools up faster. The IP will give more fuel when there is more air available, and also more when the air temp is lower, so a bigger IC will also automatically help. The rest can be done with a chip and more turbo pressure, either by tweaking or changing.

With the completely ECU-controlled IP, the accelleration will be noticably better with an exhaust with a better flow; and the gearshifts will follow, being quicker. All in all a more responsive animal. If you also want more top power, with a chip etc, you can benefit from stronger pistons.

Are the uprated pistons also noticably heavier?

 

[frank rabbets]

Just a note on Heumy's pitons. They were for the 1hd-ft engine. The 1 hd-fte is a similar engine but with hardly any common parts.

 

[nathanrobo]

Just a note on Heumy's pitons. They were for the 1hd-ft engine. The 1 hd-fte is a similar engine but with hardly any common parts.

I was aware the the 1HD FT engine has different pistons, a different head, different injectors (relating to the pistons / head / injector). I believe that this is for performance and emission reasons. So are there any high performance pistons for the 1HD FTE?

My experience of driving the 100 is that it has ample performance for it's size.

 

[Shayne]

I read this thread from the start and couldn't find a single suggestion that you want more power ?

 

[StarCruiser]

Oops my bad. Didn't spot that it's the 1HD-FT'E'. Not been concentrating well recently. Sorry [emoji20], totally out of my depth on this one.

 

[nathanrobo]

Oops my bad. Didn't spot that it's the 1HD-FT'E'. Not been concentrating well recently. Sorry [emoji20], totally out of my depth on this one.

No worries... Just got me thinking on a bit of a tangent But as I say, I've quite a few high performance cars and I though the 100 was no slouch for it's size. Seems the Yanmar Engine is a bit of a highbreed. But it's performance is designed for a prop rather than gearbox / transmission. I think I read 315 BHP with 1000 NM torque... that would pull the side off a building!

 

[frank rabbets]

That Yanmar engine is designed for constant RPM.

I find my 100 has enough power. I had a 500 bhp Ultima and I got bored with that and sold it after a few months. I took over 10 months building it lol. It's the human condition..........never satisfied.

 

[nathanrobo]

The FSM doesn't mention re-torquing heads after a few heat / cold cycles. Any views?