100 series - BEB's

[nathanrobo]

Been taking my time on this one - everything by the book - close to the finish line now.

So thoughts get around to first start and breaking in.

Experts seem to seriously disagree about breaking-in big diesel engines - conclusions are as follows:

1. Prime the oil pump before refitting the engine (mineral oil)
2. Start the engine for a couple of minutes, check for leaks, shut off and drain oil / change filter
3. refill oil (mineral) and run for 100 - 150 miles towing trailer with small car on various speeds (60 / 70mph)
4. Run for a further 150 miles without trailer
5. Drain oil / change filter
6. Refill with Toyota recommended oil

Being very different from running in petrol engines, this feels counter-intuitive. But I'd be keen to hear any comments.

 

[Towpack]

Priming the oil pump first is good insurance. If you've been meticulous with cleanliness during the re-assembly then, personally, I wouldn't bother changing the oil after a couple of minutes but it's your call. On rebuilds I've done, the first change has been at around 200 miles. Diesel engines need load to generate heat which is what you want for running in so the trailer towing will certainly provide that, just don't over do it. With the first oil change at 200 miles I'd go for a second change around 1k miles with an oil you're happy to run permanently. This is what I'd do (have done) but just go with what you're happy with. Good luck

 

[nathanrobo]

Priming the oil pump first is good insurance. If you've been meticulous with cleanliness during the re-assembly then, personally, I wouldn't bother changing the oil after a couple of minutes but it's your call. On rebuilds I've done, the first change has been at around 200 miles. Diesel engines need load to generate heat which is what you want for running in so the trailer towing will certainly provide that, just don't over do it. With the first oil change at 200 miles I'd go for a second change around 1k miles with an oil you're happy to run permanently. This is what I'd do (have done) but just go with what you're happy with. Good luck

Hey, thanks for that!
I have been really meticulous when it comes to cleanliness. I have kept both doors for the garage closed, blown every component with compressed air and constantly vacuumed components as they've been assembled (I used to be involved in data centre audits, where we did air particle counts / analysis - so you understand what floats about in the air), the garage floor is oak T & G which is regularly cleaned. Nevertheless the oil / filter change after first start was to deal with swarf.

Any recommendation on brand etc for the mineral oil?

 

[Towpack]

I've used numerous brands from Toyota's own branded oil (made by Mobil apparently at the time) to Halfords own branded product. I'm currently using Carlube Triple R SS 10w40 as I got it at a ridiculous price from a local discount store. I tend to go with whatever oil I can get the best deal on so long as it meets the spec required. Both Halfords and Carlube sell a mineral oil suitable for diesels and I wouldn't have any worries using it as a 'run in' oil. I guess everyone has their own thoughts and ideas on oil selection but I don't really but into the benefits of the exotic and expensive FS oils. As mentioned in my previous post these are old engines and don't just don't need it. They have been running up huge mileages for years on so called 'inferior' oils. If it meets the min specs it's good enough IMO.

 

[StarCruiser]

SAE 30 Morris's Golden film which is mineral oil. Thing is it doesn't really need to be anything special as you WANT wear to take place to bed the rings in.

As far as cleanliness goes, the major thing I found after a rebuild was to get a loo brush the same diameter as the Pistons and thoroughly scrub the bored with water and fairy liquid to remove any honing grit that could possibly be present as well as cleaning oil ways. I would hope there was no swarf in the engine at all.

 

[nathanrobo]

SAE 30 Morris's Golden film which is mineral oil. Thing is it doesn't really need to be anything special as you WANT wear to take place to bed the rings in.

As far as cleanliness goes, the major thing I found after a rebuild was to get a loo brush the same diameter as the Pistons and thoroughly scrub the bored with water and fairy liquid to remove any honing grit that could possibly be present as well as cleaning oil ways. I would hope there was no swarf in the engine at all.

I did check that after your earlier post... I couldn't feel any grit / swarf. But gave the bores a wash anyway, then gave them a smear of classic car engine oil.

 

[StarCruiser]

I did check that after your earlier post... I couldn't feel any grit / swarf. But gave the bores a wash anyway, then gave them a smear of classic car engine oil.

Perfect (couldn't remember I'd posted that here) the Golden film is also called classic car oil or building oil (though there's various building compounds people recommend). Sounds like you should have nothing foreign present of any significance after your virtual clean room approach.

 

[nathanrobo]

It'd be nice if I had something approaching a clean room (air filtration, positive air pressure at the doors, sticky pads for feet, completely sealed walls / ceiling). I've just done what I can to minimise debris

 

[nathanrobo]

Got the 100 running a few weeks ago after completing a number of other jobs. Finally got it insured and took it out for a shake down run last night (MOT in the morning). The engine was really tight and powder down, you can feel it easing slowly - Guess it will be quite a few miles before she really loosens up?

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[clivehorridge]

I've just read this thread through, start to now.

It's been quite a marathon Nathan but I hope you'll soon be posting that you're well pleased with the job.

Don't be in a rush to loosen her up, it will take its own time, I'm guessing 500-800 miles.

(How can you sell it after all that time & effort?)

Good luck

 

[nathanrobo]

I've just read this thread through, start to now.

It's been quite a marathon Nathan but I hope you'll soon be posting that you're well pleased with the job.

Don't be in a rush to loosen her up, it will take its own time, I'm guessing 500-800 miles.

(How can you sell it after all that time & effort?)

Good luck

Clive, you are right... it is loosening up. I've done 130 miles and you can tell the difference. I'm going to drop the first lot of running in oil and put in a new filter, then put in Toyota branded oil at 500 miles with a proper Toyota filter.

I realised that I need to reconfigure the EGR. I put a blanking plate and thought the valves etc could be done away with and a couple of VSV valves had lost it's outlet, so not receiving vacuum from the vacuum pump. But I've organised replacements with Karl and I'm going to remove the blanking plate - So I'll put it back to factory config.

Ref selling it, something has to go. I have an E320CDI (W211), a C320 CDI AMG, a 500 pop (crap), two Fiat 500 classics (1970 and 71), the LC. plus 3 cars on the drive belonging to my sons - 9 cars, the drive looks like a car park :-( plus I've blown around 40K on car repairs / restore etc in the last 2 years - savings are taking a battering :..-(

 

[StarCruiser]

Nathan, you've made me feel a whole lot better about the money I've overspent on my Smart Brabus. Like you, I won't let it go before it's right. But when it's right, it'll be up for sale, for probably half what it owes me. Still, we live and learn. I'd love your truck but I haven't got 13 grand spare and I don't suppose you'd take a Smart Brabus in PX so good luck with the sale.

 

[nathanrobo]

Nathan, you've made me feel a whole lot better about the money I've overspent on my Smart Brabus. Like you, I won't let it go before it's right. But when it's right, it'll be up for sale, for probably half what it owes me. Still, we live and learn. I'd love your truck but I haven't got 13 grand spare and I don't suppose you'd take a Smart Brabus in PX so good luck with the sale.

I bet the Brabus is fun! it's difficult to draw a line, but my wife, who's really tolerant is gently pushing me to get rid of the toys and get down to a car each. I need a bit more balance when it comes to cars.

 

[StarCruiser]

It will be when I've got the last two problems sorted and remapped it to 110bhp from 74.

 

[nathanrobo]

It will be when I've got the last two problems sorted and remapped it to 110bhp from 74.

What sort of weight is it? Should be really hot off the line.

 

[StarCruiser]

750kg



146 bhp/tonne

 

[nathanrobo]

that's gotta go like stink!

 

[nathanrobo]

Question:

I've done my first oil / filter change with 15/40 mineral after about 140ish miles, I intend to do maybe another 300 on the 2nd fill and then put in the proper Toyota oil. I've used an AMC filter for the first fill (Roughtrax) and then a Hengst filter for the 2nd fill - I'm planning to use a proper Toyo filter after this as they have fine filtration on a bypass route through the filter.

Toyodiy shows the part number for the filter as being: 90915-30002, but various sellers are offering part number as being the correct part 90915-30002 - 8T. Anyone know the difference?

I wanted to make sure that I get the one with the bypass fine filtration.

 

[uHu]

8T is ok. Made at the Denso plant in Thailand. Iv'e opened one - and there is a thread discussing the issue on mud, with lotsa pix and diagrams.
I would think it was important to have a good filter aslo during the first few miles...

 

[nathanrobo]

8T is ok. Made at the Denso plant in Thailand. Iv'e opened one - and there is a thread discussing the issue on mud, with lotsa pix and diagrams.
I would think it was important to have a good filter aslo during the first few miles...

Thanks UHU

I was working on the basis that swarf generated during the break-in would be of a greater micron size than the the carbon that makes the oil go black over time.

I was reading some stuff from Mann & Hummel sometime back (which was written in support of centrifuges being used on Diesel engines) and they stated that wear particles <10 micron were carbon (soot) particles and not to be overlooked due to their hardness.

Btw I sorted the vacuum tube issue (compliments of a couple of parts from Karl) and can report that the it performs really well, lots of torque, the body rises up on it's suspension when you take off at the lights and whilst I've not given it a leathering, you can feel bags of power at your disposal - really satisfying!