100 series - BEB's

[nathanrobo]

Makes perfect sense!

 

[StarCruiser]

When I fitted the ACLs from Karl, all the same size, all came inside the tolerance band. Toyota are just that precise because they are and can be, with loads of parts available, why wouldn't you do it to the n'th degree?

 

[nathanrobo]

I have the engine completely out, pistons removed, crank pulley removed, the case that covers the timing gears is also off. But I have a question:

The crank gear and the injection pump gear need to be aligned for timing. These gears need to come off and although there are what appear to be some faint paint marks, not all gears have the marks. I also think that the top gear (for the injection pump) because it's not on the shaft of the pump may have moved around a few gears. So how do you realign things on reassembly??

The FSM doesn't seem too clear!

 

[frank rabbets]

Does the following make sense with the manual ? All you need to do is make sure the crankshaft is in the correct position and then the injection pump shaft is in the correct position. The position of the intermediate gears is of no importance.

 

[nathanrobo]

Looking at the manual (1HD FTE), there's a 66 on the intermediate that lines up with a 6 on the inj pump. That's fine, I can see that, but on the crank there are no observable marks to align with the intermediate. I'll have to clean a bit more and get the magnifying glass on it )

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It is only the inj and crank that need to be aligned, but they have to be aligned via the intermediate gear, if the intermediate only has alignments for the injection pump, I'm a bit stuffed unless for example, the crank is aligned when no1 is at TDC??

 

[nathanrobo]

Solved it!!

The crank has two gears, you kinda assume that the outer gear is the one that carries the alignment marks. As it turns out it's the inner one, but as they are both located with a keyway, it doesn't really matter.

For anyone looking for the marks in the future, please be aware, that the gears need to be cleaned and they will only show up with careful looking and a good light.

 

[uHu]

t0yodiY is a challenge, at times. Maybe look up the parts search at amayama?

 

[nathanrobo]

Quick update... Engine out, crank, cam, head, block and crankcase all with Automotive Services in Northampton. They've looked at everything as reckon that the shiny marks on the camshaft bearings and the small marks on the BEB's are normal and that the engine looks to be in remarkable condition for 128K miles. Kinda what I expected!

Still with apart, I'm going to have the crank and cam check for straightness (don't expect any probs) and polished. New BEBs, Cam bearings and Mains, the head will be stripped out ports cleaned, valves ground and refitted with new oil seals. Block will be honed (although you can still see original hatching) and piston rings replaced. The injection pump drive gear will be replaced (seems cheaper than fitting a new bearing). Everything has been put in the hot washer and the block will be aqua blasted and painted (grey).

I'm going to have the Turbo refurbed (it's not damaged but always good to reset things to new standard), then will begin the rebuild with all new bolts.

The engine was stripped with head, all ancillaries including turbo and manifold off before lifting it out. I'm assuming that I can rebuild the engine completely and lift the lot in... Is that the best way? It will be easier to build everything, torque down the head, adjust valve clearances, fit the pump, turbo, EGR, alternator, belts etc. all on the engine frame. But will it go in easily enough with the coolant radiator out of the way (aircon rad still in)- will there still be plenty of clearance other than the harness that comes over the transmission on the lhs of the car??

 

[uHu]

When I lifted my engines in and out, fully assembled, there were no problems with space. I did have the gearbox out first though, but mating with the gearbox in place doesn't require much extra space, so That'll be fine. The only tiny problem I had the first time, was that the little coolant hose at the back of the engine got pinched. 2nd time I had learned.
Don't forget the grounding strap.

 

[StarCruiser]

I admire you for doing this NR but can I ask what prompted you to embark on this? What happened to the engine to warrant such a rebuild? Just curious.

 

[nathanrobo]

I didn't intent to go so far. I did a post last year when I had the car seriously stripped down for bodywork and repaint http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/54541-Gone-and-done-it-again/page2 i had also redone the leather, replaced the carpet / soundproofing, done brakes, driveshafts, axle control arms, just mention a few jobs. In the year or so that the car was left standing the fuel in the tank seemed to have gotten diesel BUG, that took out he injector pump and blocked the injectors after spending £1100 with the diesel injector specialist , I was ready to put everything back together with new cam belt, tensioner etc and was extracting the injector seats. I used a split collet tool to try to pull them out and a bit broke off the tool, falling into the bore.

I then took off the cyl head to retrieve the broken bit and noticed some small shiny patched on the cam bearings. This lead me to wonder if the BEB's were the same. Although the bearings, cam and crank were confirmed by the engineering shop as in good condition, I thought it would be good to reset the engine back to day one! A bit over the top I know, but I want the car perfect before selling it.

 

[StarCruiser]

You're selling it after…suppose I better start saving then if it's as sorted as it sounds.

I can dream…[emoji6]

 

[nathanrobo]

I know, if I'd have auctioned it as it was, I'd probably have been 6 or 7k better off.

 

[nathanrobo]

Anyone have any recommendations for a good engine assembly lube?

 

[frank rabbets]

I use engine oil. It's designed to stay in the capillary oil clearances. You can use grease on the journals if you're paranoid about the pump building up pressure but it should be no different than an oil change BUT it's essential to make sure the pump is well oiled when installing it as otherwise it may not suck up and produce pressure straight away.

 

[Towpack]

2 parts engine oil, 1 part molyslip and 1 part STP. Used it numerous times over the years from small bike to large car engines and it does the job. All you need is a lubricant that will say on the bearings for the first few vital seconds of the post build startup until the sump oil gets round.

 

[Towpack]

I use engine oil. It's designed to stay in the capillary oil clearances. You can use grease on the journals if you're paranoid about the pump building up pressure but it should be no different than an oil change BUT it's essential to make sure the pump is well oiled when installing it as otherwise it may not suck up and produce pressure straight away.

A simple engine oil change leaves the oil ways full unlike an engine strip. When I did the BEB's after leaving the sump off over night to minimise the oil drips I was amazed at the amount of oil than ran out of the crank when the bearing caps came off.

 

[Julian T]

I always used engine oil, Rover V8 oil pumps I used to prime with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) so that they would have good suction.
If you are concerned about first start lubrication use gear box oil, EP90.

 

[nathanrobo]

Thanks Guys... I just wondered if there was a particular product recommended.

When I've been tuned engines for the old Fiat 500 classics, I've used either Torco assy lube or STP in the oil pump and on the BEB,s and the black assy grease everywhere else. I'm a bit paranoid with the LC engine, if it munches itself up it's gonna b expensive.

I'm always a bit concerned that some of these products, like STP or Slick 50 will prevent the engine from bedding in properly. Julian, I'm curious about the EP90... are there any ill effects mixing this with engine oil??

Also with regards to the choice of engine oil whilst the engine is bedding in, any recommendations - should I go by the book and get semi-sync Toyo oil. Or would it be better to run in with non-sync? And when it comes to priming the pump can this be done on the engine frame with the injectors out, but just turning the engine over by the pulley. Could I expect to see oil reaching the top end this way?

 

[StarCruiser]

From your last post I think you are not far off knowing the answers NR. [emoji4]
Deglaze the bores, wash and scrub (buy a toilet brush that fits the bores snug) with fairy and water then dry. Reassemble. Mineral oil for the first 300 miles (or thereabouts, can be up to 500) to bed in.
Rig up something to drive the engine in the correct direction, a drill on a belt onto a pulley to rotate it at a low RPM is what I did with my Smart engine to start things off.
There's no heater plugs on your engine IIRC so injectors out as you say and it may be a good idea to give the fuel pump some fuel so it is lubricated internally and catch what fuel comes out.