1992 1 HD -T Running in procedure?

[Pumpy]

What's the running in procedure for a 1992 1 HD -T after an engine rebuild with new pistons?

Or which manual is it in, I can't find it after an hour pouring though the RM172E.pdf

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Hi after my rebuild recently I was told not to rev to high and drive normally for up to 1000km to ease the new running gear in. My style of driving is a bit lazy anyways so it didn't affect my driving characteristics [emoji849].


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[Pumpy]

thanks Indigo, all I can find on the forum is...

From here ...

So I finished getting it back together today and ........ ITS RUNNING it even survived the run in process witch in the Haynes manual seems a little brutal I had to accelerate hard up to 50 and let the engine run down to 30mph 10 times to bed the rings.

from here

8 months and 4,000 miles later and she is still running like a swiss watch

Ran her for 500 miles on running in oil and then changed for Morris's Multivis. She doesn't use a drop of oil, I've put this down to honing the bores, fitting new rings and the liberal use of Graphogen assembly compound in the bores (and everywhere else) during the rebuild.

I've got a laning trip comming up, debating canceling if it's not run in properly

I guess I better read what the FSM has to say about it if only I could find it in the manual

 

[Michael Montgomery]

I hear some recommending hard revving on the gears to bed the Pistons in & saw videos on YouTube showing his but when asking my cousin here the mechanic he didn't recommend this at all. It could be different type of engine to others I'm not sure but I certainty didn't want to risk damage for the amount of outlay for the repair [emoji16]


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[frank rabbets]

Let it rev freely in the lower gears and drive at a varying rpm as much as possible. Don't labour the engine as in straining it in the higher gears.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Let it rev freely in the lower gears and drive at a varying rpm as much as possible. Don't labour the engine as in straining it in the higher gears.

Thats how I'd run it in Frank, mind you I think there a good few misconceptions regarding "running in". Over the years the truck engines I/we have rebuilt have been a steady short test run and sent out to work the next day as normal with no adverse issues.

 

[Pumpy]

it's an auto, would you say use the selector to get up to 4th to vary the rpm a bit? or just go easy up though in D? and for how many miles?

 

[frank rabbets]

Yes drive it in "manual" for a bit. Andy ?

 

[StarCruiser]

Have you put mineral oil in, something like sae30? I was told to do this (on my petrol Smart) and drive for 300-500 miles or so before changing the oil for the correct stuff. This allows the rings to bed in.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Although there is a difference between a "New" engine and a "rebuilt" one where half the parts are already run in bear this in mind. Brand new truck engines are bedded in at the factory by putting them on a dyno, let them warm up for half an hour and then 12hours at max revs max load on the dyno amd then let cool down and fit them to a chassis as brand new. They are obviously checked throughout with sensors but they don't pussyfoot about with them. They are considered run in at that point.

 

[Pumpy]

I've not done anything with it yet, it's still in bits, just trying to find out the correct procedure so I can make a decision on weather to join in a weekend laning trip to Wales in two weeks time...

and I'm not much wiser yet

 

[frank rabbets]

It's vital to glaze bust the bores before putting the new pistons/rings in. If you don't they will never "run in" i.e. bed in properly and you may end up with an engine that constantly uses oil. Done it myself.

With the old bores/piston rings they will have worn to an individual hard and shaped finish during their running in. After 1000 miles or so the wear stops and the engine is run in. If you put new rings straight into these hard bores no wear takes place and the rings cannot wear the bores to the rings individual shapes.

Glaze busting the bores gives you a new rough starting surface and when the new rings run up and down wear occurs and obviously the eventually the rings and bores are exactly the same shape. The oil after the first 1000 miles when running in is complete will have metal debris in fine suspension so that's why you are advised to change it.

 

[Pumpy]

OK so lets say it's honed/glaze busted, and it's all back together waiting for it's first start up after new pistons and rings.

Which oil
What revs for how long stationary
Drive 'manual' using the selector to keep revs varied for what milage
change oil and filter after 500-1000 miles?

Is this procedure not written down anywhere?

The laning trip will be mostly on tickover after the first 200 miles, hence me wanting to get the running in procedure down before I make a decision on going or not

 

[frank rabbets]

A non synthetic engine oil. Using a synthetic oil may not give enough wear as it is a superior lubrication oil.

Start and drive off. Don't idle the engine whatever you do. If the engine idles for a long time the rings will be taking on an idling shape and will not be efficient at other higher RPM's that you use most of the time.

1/2 throttle up to 1800 rpm then change to the next gear.

Do town driving so you can vary the engine revs. If you go straight down the Mway you will be at constant RPM or making a nuisance by slowing , changing gear etc.

If you come to a hill change down to get up the hill rather than using full throttle.

The procedure is written down in older owners manuals from 60's backwards in time.

New cars do not need running in.

Rebuilding engines is almost unheard of because they now last the life of the car so it's difficult to get advice.

The important thing to do is;-
1. Don't go over 1800 rpm.
2. Don't use more than 1/2 throttle.
3. Don't idle for more time than a traffic light change.

After 500 miles you could gradually drive outside the above rules.

Check the oil level cold on a level surface every 100 or so miles. If it uses any this should gradually reduce as the engine runs in. After 1000 miles change the oil and filter and if the engine has stopped burning oil in the first 1000 miles you could change to a better oil for longer engine life as the run in has been complete.

 

[Pumpy]

Excellent cheers Frank

I mite plan a non M/way road trip to Manchester and back, given 20 mile of testing, 40 mile to get the truck back here, 300 mile road trip, and 200 mile to the start of the laning, so long as I don't leave it ideling at gates, I should be good for an oil change when I get back (it sounds like a plan anyway!)

 

[Dave2000]

I agree with Frank on this. Good mineral oil, not synthetic. Re driving/revolutions etc. I would simply drive it, this engine is not designed for high revolutions anyway and minimum idling where possible. Just use it, if you can avoid kick down for the couple of thousand fine. Change the oil and filter around 3,000 miles, and I assume you have a magnetic sump plug in there? Thereafter 5,000 mile changes all done. I prefer the lower mileage changes, with mine now approaching 245,000 miles, no consumption between changes seems to work OK.

Years ago it was imperative to run an engine in, nowadays the machining and assembly is to such fine tolerances it is not so critical.


regards

Dave

 

[Pumpy]

Update: Done 700 non motorway miles since the rebuild, stopped using oil after about 400 miles, used about 1/2 litre (didn't see any smoke at all), going to replace the oil and filter, sticking to mineral oil.

Plans: Devon laning/recce trip this w/e est another 750 mile, then Lakes laning w/e after est another 750 miles, then in July we're heading off to the Alps, est 2500 mile trip so planning a new filter and replace oil with semi/synthetic before we go.

Does that sound like a good plan?

 

[frank rabbets]

If it's stopped using oil it's probably run in. As a precaution just drive it a bit more normally for the next 500 or so then go for it.

 

[Pumpy]

cheers Frank, I don't think I've been this nervous about anything since my dog had puppies

 

[frank rabbets]

Ha Ha Ha .