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1HD-FTE Timing Belt Change

warrenpfo

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Jul 21, 2010
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I plan on changing my timing belt not because of miles but rather age. I have done some searching and cant find any info or how too on the subject so thought I owuld put it out there and ask if anyone has done it and can walk me through the process.

At the same time im in there i plan on changing the water pump and all the other reccomended bits.

The FSM i have is for the petrol v8 so if anyone has a link for the diesel that would be great too.

Thanks
 
Thanks Jon

Having had a read it would seem it’s not a very difficult job but I do have a couple of questions that you may be able to help on.

If when I remove the timing belt cover and the engine has not stopped with both No 1 & 2 pulleys at BDC (which is unlikely…I wonder what the odds are on that) what is the reason for then turning them so that they are on BDC.
I would think on removing the belt both pulleys are not free to move easily and so being a uniform belt why can one not slip the old off and replace with the new. The only reason I can think is that maybe the pulleys are easier to move than I think and that with the tensioner taking up the slack one of the pulleys may move ever so slightly.

Second silly question is what happens if on removing the timing belt cover and positioning pulley No1 on BDC what if pulley No 2 is then not on BDC. Do I remove the belt and move pulley No 2 back or forward to BDC or should getting pulley No1 to BDC mean Pulley No2 will also be on BDC.


By the way I have no idea what BDC means I know it’s something dead centre.
 
Warren
All you have to do is stop the engine and forget about the timing. Take the cover off and put a straight edge across the pulleys and mark its' position with 4 scratches; 1 on each pulley edge. Take off the tensioner and then slide the belt off. Slide the new belt on making sure that there is no play in the run opposite the tensioner. Reinstall the tensioner and test the line up of the pulleys with the straight edge.

!!! When compressing the tensioner do it very slowly indeed with a vice so you only just feel resistance . When compressed the holes in the piston and body will line up and you can put a pin through. Install the tensioner and remove the pin.

Never turn one pulley by itself.

If you do it as per book the pulleys are positioned with the belt on so that they are both on their timing marks so you can check everything is OK with the new belt on.

Frank
 
If it stops and is not on the timing marks, start and stop it again :icon-wink: Using the OEM marks makes life easy. Your new tensioner will already have a pin in IIRC. It really isn't hard to do.
 
You can just about get a very short box spanner on the front crankshaft nut and turn it to align to the OEM maks but it is easier with someone looking from above to tell you when to stop. Clockwise when viewed from the front. Using the marks you can check that the timing you have is correct!!and it is pretty bullet proof when you put the new belt on. I would think a genuine Toyota belt and tensioner were a must. Failure here would be catastrophic.

Frank
 
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Last question. The FSM calls for a 8 mm hexagon wrench to undo the idler pulley. I take it they talking about an 8mm Allen key?
 
Easiest cambelt I've ever changed on any car :) So well thought out! The whole tensioner bit is cool, clamp it, put a small alun key in to keep it compressed, put the belt on and pull out the alun key.
 
Did you also do the water pump as the FSM calls for the removal of one of the pullys but not sure why.
 
Did you also do the water pump as the FSM calls for the removal of one of the pullys but not sure why.

If its like the colorado the water pump comes in two pieces, a backing casing and the water pump bolts to this, so it may be you need the pulley off to access bolts on the rear casing.

Joe
 
I’m just working my way through what needs doing and so long as there are no problems along the way I should be ok.

One last question or two for the matter.

Does anyone know of a way to loosen the No1 camshaft pulley retaining nut without having to remove the camshaft cover so that I can get a wrench on the camshaft as depicted in the FSM. I had thought that an air gun might shock it undone but not sure if there is the space or if its a bit OTT as I’m sure the FSM was written for a reason.

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And lastly does anyone have a puller I could borrow to remove the pulley once the nut has been removed as I dont have the facilities to make one.
 
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Could always try this but with the timing belt left on....only jokes I would not be brave enough to do this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI
Reminds me of the time I was stuck on a deserted French campsite in a VW camper with a flat battery and no one to help, I used a socket on the pulley wheel (rear engine) and a ratchet to act as a starting handle, worked a treat. :thumbup:
 
I'd lock the cam pulley with something through the spokes to undo the nut.
 
Thanks Jon I will take a look and see what there is to work with prior to taking on the job.
 
Sort of associated to the above thread. How do you get the timing belt light (on the dash) to go out after you have replaced the belt? Is there a way or is it main dealer perks (with associated cost)?
 
My light never came on as my cruiser has not yet done 30k and you only supposed to change it at 90k.

I have the perk of a Toyota computer so could use that to turn it off pother wise I guess you need to go on to your dealer and get them too do it.

There may be another way but I would not know what that is.
 
Does the 100 have an OBDII connector? You should be able to do it through that if it does.
 
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