1kz-te Rookie!

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
removing the EGR shouldn't change the turbo sound or engine noise for that matter.

Could you take a pic of this line that you're blocking off that changes the engine noise, I'm intrigued...
Beau, I've blanked both sides of the EGR. It's broken on the throttle side.
The same line in the picture above is the one that creates the sound. It's the line that was supposed to go to the small actuator. I had the hoses connected incorrectly.
Some how that "black cap" was removed from my solenoid. Under that cap is a vac line port. That was running straight down to the vacuum pump.(wrong setup)
The hose in the picture of how mine was shows the lower vac line on the solenoid loose with the top one going to the small actuator.
Whenever that second is blocked it starts to sound like a perkins.....
I'll post some pics. But you can check also that picture I have uploaded. I labeled which line was loose. When that loose line is blocked....... And also the "black cap" that is missing on my solenoid.
 
Last edited:

StarCruiser

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Guru
I am in uk
Oct 7, 2014
11,790
4,804
113
Bognor Regis UK
Garage
My guess is that’s a two way or three port valve and that the two lines connected should be in the form of a switch to either allow vacuum to the actuator or allow the actuator to ‘breathe’ back in air to allow it to return. This it will almost certainly do this via the blackbcap which I’m guessing is a filter of sorts to prevent the crud from entering. So the remaining two ports are vacuum and actuator. If you use a length of pipe attached to one of the ports and blow down it with the connector disconnected, whichever one will allow air out the black cap end will be for the actuator. An additional check would be to power it up and see that the air then comes out of the other port which will be where the vacuum line goes. With no black cap available you’ll need to either use a small fuel filter or an air silencer like this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/283240459907 (there are many different types of these, some in plastic) to stop the crud getting in.

If you have any other valves like the one shown you should see which port the vacuum and actuator go to. I’m pretty sure this should sort it for you as long as the valve isn’t bunged up or something.
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
My guess is that’s a two way or three port valve and that the two lines connected should be in the form of a switch to either allow vacuum to the actuator or allow the actuator to ‘breathe’ back in air to allow it to return. This it will almost certainly do this via the blackbcap which I’m guessing is a filter of sorts to prevent the crud from entering. So the remaining two ports are vacuum and actuator. If you use a length of pipe attached to one of the ports and blow down it with the connector disconnected, whichever one will allow air out the black cap end will be for the actuator. An additional check would be to power it up and see that the air then comes out of the other port which will be where the vacuum line goes. With no black cap available you’ll need to either use a small fuel filter or an air silencer like this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/283240459907 (there are many different types of these, some in plastic) to stop the crud getting in.

If you have any other valves like the one shown you should see which port the vacuum and actuator go to. I’m pretty sure this should sort it for you as long as the valve isn’t bunged up or something.
Thanks StarCruiser, what your saying makes perfect sense and I will fix this asap.
The one on ebay is good. But I now understand the concept of that solenoid, I will rectify this asap as the road to Eldorado is very dusty..... Ill keep you posted... Thanks

I've installed a new turbo lately and it doesn't sound as good as it used you(before seal leak). And shaky turbine.
Would you happen to have an idea for my new turbo that doesn't give that sweet whistle??
Doesn't sound as it should I think. Or as I've heard other 1kz-te sounding.
Any ideas?
In this video you can clearly hear what I referring to.
 
Don't like the adverts? Remove them by becoming a supporting member.   Click here

StarCruiser

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Guru
I am in uk
Oct 7, 2014
11,790
4,804
113
Bognor Regis UK
Garage
If that was before the turbo swap, it sounds to me like the exhaust is leaking or without the right muffler as I would call that a loud turbo. This can also be loud if there is a high flow air filter installed.
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
Hey SC, that's not mine. I was curious about the whistling sound. And why mine does not whistle like that anymore.
Mine started to overheat around the first of this month... water was getting into the oil... when I removed the oil cap there was water under it and also a grey mayo looking substance. I assumed it was a head gasket leak... or warped head.... so I had it removed. It was the gasket but also the head was slightly off.. new mechanic with experience on 1kz-te engines suggested pulling the block as well to do some checks. As he thought there was some bad cylinders and maybe more damage under..
Keep in mind I replaced the pistons and rings 6 months ago so that made a horrible sound in my ears....
So we pulled it all out... turns out there was more damage there, damage on 2 pistons and rings also 2 cylinders, and bearings. I was told the last guy to replace the pistons had put them in wrong......
So I had it all redone. Head and block also the crankshaft was worn so I put a new one. 2 cylinders were changed all water jackets replaced and this is were we are now. Will begin to reassemble tomorrow....

IMG-20181214-WA0004.jpg IMG-20181214-WA0003.jpg IMG-20181214-WA0006.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: StarCruiser

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
Thanks for all your help guys. But I have terrible news .. picked up the car yesterday and all seemed fine.. After about an hour I saw the temperature guage climbing pass the halfway point. That was enough to get my temperature up as well...... pulled into the yard before it reached redline. After allowing it to cool down I opened the oil cap and my knees buckled as I saw water and more gray mayo...
Mechanic was speechless and said he would fix it at no cost. I was present during most of the work and all seemed to be going right.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

StarCruiser

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Guru
I am in uk
Oct 7, 2014
11,790
4,804
113
Bognor Regis UK
Garage
Thanks for all your help guys. But I have terrible news .. picked up the car yesterday and all seemed fine.. After about an hour I saw the temperature guage climbing pass the halfway point. That was enough to get my temperature up as well...... pulled into the yard before it reached redline. After allowing it to cool down I opened the oil cap and my knees buckled as I saw water and more gray mayo...
Mechanic was speechless and said he would fix it at no cost. I was present during most of the work and all seemed to be going right.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Have the head crack tested. They are prone to cracking if overheated and there is a thread on here called ‘cooling the 1kzt’ . It may pay you to look at your radiator, thermostat and fan coupling just to be sure. @Beau probably has some of the best knowledge in this area.

Finally hats off to your mechanic for his response. Sounds like you’ve found a good one. :clap::clap:
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
Have the head crack tested. They are prone to cracking if overheated and there is a thread on here called ‘cooling the 1kzt’ . It may pay you to look at your radiator, thermostat and fan coupling just to be sure. @Beau probably has some of the best knowledge in this area.

Finally hats off to your mechanic for his response. Sounds like you’ve found a good one. :clap::clap:
Thanks SC, first the thermostat has been removed. I was advised by a few persons that taking it out completely would be better for this climate. (Hot,humid)Mechanic did say the fan needs to be replaced, said it was spinning to freely.
Second round begins today....
Thanks for your help
 
  • Like
Reactions: StarCruiser

Shayne

Well-Known Member
Guru
Feb 2, 2013
13,338
5,028
113
South Wales UK
I can't see how removing the thermostat completely is a good idea , its there to stop flow so coolant gets a chance to cool in the radiator ready to replace the hot stuff cooling your motor , without the stat its a constant cycle allowing all your coolant to be heated to engine temperature .
 

Shayne

Well-Known Member
Guru
Feb 2, 2013
13,338
5,028
113
South Wales UK
Toyota sells a towing stat that opens at lower temperatures (cycles more regularly) , the part number should be on here somewhere if you can find it .
 

StarCruiser

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Guru
I am in uk
Oct 7, 2014
11,790
4,804
113
Bognor Regis UK
Garage
@Shayne
I can't see how removing the thermostat completely is a good idea , its there to stop flow so coolant gets a chance to cool in the radiator ready to replace the hot stuff cooling your motor , without the stat its a constant cycle allowing all your coolant to be heated to engine temperature .
I agree, though I always thought it was there to allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature before letting the water out to the radiator so it maintains a healthy 70 degrees C or so and all the metal is at the right point of expansion.
 

Beau

Well-Known Member
I am in guyana
Jan 28, 2011
2,004
290
83
Milton keynes
Well it sounds like you managed to pull over quickly so fingers crossed the head isn't warped or cracked. I think what has most likely happened is the head gasket didn't seal 100% and you had high points which allowed the water/oil to circulate. I think heads cracking is more down to stress/heat cycles over time, vs simply overheating the motor. I had a head overheat with me whilst doing "good speed" on the highway, and realized when the temp needle was already maxed out. Long story short, the head had warped but remained crack free.

Not sure if you mentioned it, but what head gasket brand did you use, toyota? I've heard of a few people having trouble with aftermarket brand gaskets... It can be hard to spot as well upon removal. I've used copper spray on my last head replacement and it's held up well. Seems popular here state side.

If you're in a hot climate and really work the motors then running no stat can work well. You'll find on the motorway you'll run a lil cooler than "optimum" but when a big hill or load calls, you'll have the capacity and flow to prevent overheating. Or like Shayne mentioned, stick in the 72 degree stat and you shouldn't have problems.
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
I can't see how removing the thermostat completely is a good idea , its there to stop flow so coolant gets a chance to cool in the radiator ready to replace the hot stuff cooling your motor , without the stat its a constant cycle allowing all your coolant to be heated to engine temperature .
Thanks Shayne, I understand and will find the 72° stat.
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
Well it sounds like you managed to pull over quickly so fingers crossed the head isn't warped or cracked. I think what has most likely happened is the head gasket didn't seal 100% and you had high points which allowed the water/oil to circulate. I think heads cracking is more down to stress/heat cycles over time, vs simply overheating the motor. I had a head overheat with me whilst doing "good speed" on the highway, and realized when the temp needle was already maxed out. Long story short, the head had warped but remained crack free.

Not sure if you mentioned it, but what head gasket brand did you use, toyota? I've heard of a few people having trouble with aftermarket brand gaskets... It can be hard to spot as well upon removal. I've used copper spray on my last head replacement and it's held up well. Seems popular here state side.

If you're in a hot climate and really work the motors then running no stat can work well. You'll find on the motorway you'll run a lil cooler than "optimum" but when a big hill or load calls, you'll have the capacity and flow to prevent overheating. Or like Shayne mentioned, stick in the 72 degree stat and you shouldn't have problems.
Thanks for your help Beau, it was definitely an aftermarket head gasket....As for the copper spray, I don't think the new guy used any. I helped to put back the head and I didn't see anything applied.
I'm in a very hot climate and it seems to me it's the water in the oil causing the overheating. will try the 72° stat after I stop the water leaking into oil.
All the best for the holidays guys and thank you for the help.
 
Last edited:

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
Hey guys, pulled off the head again and this is how it looks now.....
IMG-20181226-WA0001.jpg
and here is the block..
IMG-20181226-WA0000.jpg
also when looking for the original head gasket I find 3 that is for my engine.. kd-kzj95w-gkpst.. they look the same but part numbers are different. Your assistance asap will be greatly appreciated. headgasket2.jpg headgasket3.jpg View attachment 152734 headgasket1.jpg
 

EldoradoSAM

Active Member
I am in guyana
Oct 30, 2018
64
5
8
20181230_004232.jpg
20181230_004132.jpg
Here goes to the second round. Machine shop replaced mine with this one. A pressure test showed the head was cracked in two places... Claimed they found a crack on it which they might of missed. (They gave me a guarantee on the job they did before). Will begin installing in the am. Also putting a new fan/fan clutch. And new hose for the intercooler. View attachment 152778 I'm hoping to find this crankshaft sensor as well.
crankshaftsensor.jpg
I can get it online, but the waiting time.....
Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated as I pretty much have access to all of the engine at this stage. Thanks IMG-20181231-WA0004.jpeg IMG-20181231-WA0006.jpeg 20181231_214450.jpg IMG-20181214-WA0001.jpeg
 
Last edited:
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks