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80 series gullwings rear windows
- Thread starter stan
- Start date
Hi All, and thanks for your input which I am taking on board.
Chris, I must confess I wasn't entirely with you on the original post you made today…but now I am. Yes, I have to agree that does look good. Unfortunately i cannot get it to play. I'm dying to see what they've done, though part of me has a sigh that it will not be my own design.
I can however see that they have external hinges which is what I was trying to avoid and, to be fair, is where all my problems lie. I may have to admit defeat and go with the majority on this one with external hinges and not make life difficult.
Stu, Iwan, thanks for the encouragement. I'm just trying to get these done in good time for you guys that are off on trips but I can see they really aren't likely to be able to order material in and cut them by next Thursday.
Shayne, thanks, great minds think alike. I have considered that design to stop rain flowing back to the vehicle when open and in the current state there just would not be the room to do it. Worth considering for any workable design though.
I'm clearly going to have to do a redesign and I have to admit what Chris has shown looks to be my favourite.
This is P1 prototype. We've plenty more to go…[emoji6]
Chris, I must confess I wasn't entirely with you on the original post you made today…but now I am. Yes, I have to agree that does look good. Unfortunately i cannot get it to play. I'm dying to see what they've done, though part of me has a sigh that it will not be my own design.
I can however see that they have external hinges which is what I was trying to avoid and, to be fair, is where all my problems lie. I may have to admit defeat and go with the majority on this one with external hinges and not make life difficult.
Stu, Iwan, thanks for the encouragement. I'm just trying to get these done in good time for you guys that are off on trips but I can see they really aren't likely to be able to order material in and cut them by next Thursday.
Shayne, thanks, great minds think alike. I have considered that design to stop rain flowing back to the vehicle when open and in the current state there just would not be the room to do it. Worth considering for any workable design though.
I'm clearly going to have to do a redesign and I have to admit what Chris has shown looks to be my favourite.
This is P1 prototype. We've plenty more to go…[emoji6]
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Okay, and at the risk of being pilloried... I'm not sure I understand this mod at all, given the issues, cost and potential hassle. What exactly is this giving you that you can't get by going in through the tailgate? Emperor's new clothes? Just a thought...
Rain? I wouldn't bother about that. Not intending to be anywhere wet when I open mine. Keep it simple.
Yep, advocated external hinges a while back but maybe on a different post. Can't recall. We discussed some composite material hinges and modern bonding agents to glue them on. Doesn't all have to be nuts and bolts you know. Bolt to the frame and maybe bond to the flap
Yep, advocated external hinges a while back but maybe on a different post. Can't recall. We discussed some composite material hinges and modern bonding agents to glue them on. Doesn't all have to be nuts and bolts you know. Bolt to the frame and maybe bond to the flap
Hi Dave, I've been looking at these for a while and the idea (at least for me)!is to have a slimline locker in behind each of these doors to keep kit that stays on the truck. I have a kind of cassette system in the back of my truck for my work gear and these will prevent me taking stuff out when I need it with me.
I cannot speak for others, but I guess when the rear is turned into an over lander, these allow additional storage and access.
I cannot speak for others, but I guess when the rear is turned into an over lander, these allow additional storage and access.
Just a thought but, if you could change the hinges to something like the hinges on a top opening sash window (these have a slide so, the top would drop slightly as opening) you could eliminate the fouling at the top and possibly remove the need for a gas strut?. It would mean the addition of a few brackets to fix the hinges.
this type of thing
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TBH its just that I've spent a lot of time in the past working on complex solutions (I like the challenge!) when often a simple solution is just as good in practice. Like, say, a bunch of wolf boxes, rather than a complex storage mechanism. But maybe that's just me?
Chris, yes, these were discussed earlier and they wouldn't need any special treatment. I just didn't want them. Still don't really (you'll remember the Mk 1 attempt) . But I do admit, I am running out of ideas as to how to implement them. It's fair to say they are the easy route.
I think the bonding came from hidden hinges.
I think the bonding came from hidden hinges.
This is what we want to do and that's enough in my view. Don't want them then you don't have to have them, but for me they solve a significant issue in my set up. Certainly not caught up in something for which there is no point. But we need to get back to the simplest of designs. Frame, external hinge, gas strut, compression locks.
Hi and thanks Old Fox, I started out with some BMW bonnet hinges which worked on the same principal. The problem was that they restricted the opening by dropping the hinge part down. That kind of thing that you show was along the lines of what I was after but I have yet to find one that works.
It's great BTW that there's so many ideas and so much creativity coming out of this, I'm really pleased and open to any and all suggestions.
Dave, I've done boxes to death (broken and humped many about) I'm just after something I can fit and store stuff out of the way and tidy up a mess in my truck that bugs me and means I unload stuff I would rather keep on the truck and not on the back seat where I have to move it on occasion.
Though what I call 'Toolbox Syndrome' (the theory that you fill your toolbox and think 'I need a bigger toolbox', get one, then life is good for a while but then you just grow the contents to fit the space) will kick in I'm sure.
It's great BTW that there's so many ideas and so much creativity coming out of this, I'm really pleased and open to any and all suggestions.
Dave, I've done boxes to death (broken and humped many about) I'm just after something I can fit and store stuff out of the way and tidy up a mess in my truck that bugs me and means I unload stuff I would rather keep on the truck and not on the back seat where I have to move it on occasion.
Though what I call 'Toolbox Syndrome' (the theory that you fill your toolbox and think 'I need a bigger toolbox', get one, then life is good for a while but then you just grow the contents to fit the space) will kick in I'm sure.
There's always a balance between functionality and elegance for me. I just don't want a boot piled full of Wolf boxes. It might be very practical, but it's just not elegant. Drawers are more elegant but less practical. How about drawers with Wolf boxes them in them? Well that's just daft. So then you get into divided drawers which is what I have done in mine and that's working well for me. But there is a point where an elegant solution just becomes to complex and I agree you end up losing sight of what you were trying to do in the first place. An example here for me was to have electrically operated locks. Nah, simple push locks are just fine. The solution shouldn't outweigh the need. For me, gullwings on one side at least really do solve a storage issue for me.
I think they're going to be great.
I think they're going to be great.
Ok panel, what about this…
Take the existing door that I've chopped the top corners off. Cut the top 25mm off in a straight line.
Weld a piece of 1/2" X 1" ally angle to the frame looking upwards with the long side parallel to the frame to fill the 25mm that's just been removed.
Bolt two external hinges to bridge between the two along the cut line. Hinges would not have any screws showing as they fit from the back. Ally angle would fit to within 2mm of the body as would all gaps around the door depending on how tight they're pulled down with the latches.
The only things not flush would be the hinges and latches.
Your thoughts please…
Oh, and they've said they can do them next week as the punch man is not going away until the weekend. [emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji3]
Take the existing door that I've chopped the top corners off. Cut the top 25mm off in a straight line.
Weld a piece of 1/2" X 1" ally angle to the frame looking upwards with the long side parallel to the frame to fill the 25mm that's just been removed.
Bolt two external hinges to bridge between the two along the cut line. Hinges would not have any screws showing as they fit from the back. Ally angle would fit to within 2mm of the body as would all gaps around the door depending on how tight they're pulled down with the latches.
The only things not flush would be the hinges and latches.
Your thoughts please…
Oh, and they've said they can do them next week as the punch man is not going away until the weekend. [emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji3]
Is part, or all of this giving you trouble Chris?
Or is it that a picture is needed rather than 1000 words? [emoji6]
That is the simple answer Shayne, thanks. And it's what I've wanted all along. Alas, for the life of me and after probably days of searching the net I have not yet found anything suitable (I am still searching). There are plenty that look like they might work, but don't. So, for the sake of my sanity, and getting doors to people that don't look pants or foul bodywork and do the job they were intended to do without having a smaller or obscured opening, I'm, slightly reluctantly, going for the external hinges I wanted to avoid. Chris is right. I don't have to have them if I don't want them, but they're the best I've got at the moment and with time ticking away, I've got this weekend to get it sorted or there's three and a half weeks delay!!
This is a compromise, part my design and part (possibly more than we think) Chris's picture (which I would still like to see as the video it is). The main thing is, it will work.
This is a compromise, part my design and part (possibly more than we think) Chris's picture (which I would still like to see as the video it is). The main thing is, it will work.
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Julian T
Well-Known Member
Why not emulate something like the 1980's or 90's mercedes bonnet hinge? those could open 90 degrees and they moved the bonnet away and up from the body? I am thinking of the W123, W124 and W126 series chassis numbers.
Thanks Julian.
You mean like these
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251286159140&globalID=EBAY-GB
I started off with this exact thought using these BMW hinges that are prolific and have a convenient gas strut.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221479058712&globalID=EBAY-GB
Trouble is, when the door opens, the top drops downwards and cuts down the opening by around 6" or so. On a boot or bonnet this isn't so bad. On a foot high opening its catastrophic.
There's a picture of a crude wooden mock up I did way back in this thread that shows this. Post 99.
I'll post a screen shot of my drawing this morning so hopefully it will become clear.
As with some boot lids…I guess sometimes external hinges are the only option.
You mean like these
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251286159140&globalID=EBAY-GB
I started off with this exact thought using these BMW hinges that are prolific and have a convenient gas strut.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221479058712&globalID=EBAY-GB
Trouble is, when the door opens, the top drops downwards and cuts down the opening by around 6" or so. On a boot or bonnet this isn't so bad. On a foot high opening its catastrophic.
There's a picture of a crude wooden mock up I did way back in this thread that shows this. Post 99.
I'll post a screen shot of my drawing this morning so hopefully it will become clear.
As with some boot lids…I guess sometimes external hinges are the only option.
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Here's the hinges I'm considering now.
They're the ones. You'd just need a small filler block to make up the difference in height between the flap and the frame. That could be plastic. I think they're very neat. Are the studs going to be long enough though?
I'm not after achieving a stealth look really. It's a dirty great big truck at the end of the day with bits sticking out all over the place. Concealing the back window is probably a forlorn hope.
I'm not after achieving a stealth look really. It's a dirty great big truck at the end of the day with bits sticking out all over the place. Concealing the back window is probably a forlorn hope.
