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80 series gullwings rear windows
- Thread starter stan
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Should have a finished one bar the painting when I get back this week Chris. I've left the prototype to have final welding done while I'm away.
Then I've found we have a company that does water jet cutting locally so will be contacting them for a price. And a finishers that do powder coat as well as wet spray.
So although I'm in Austria, progress is being made. [emoji4]
Then I've found we have a company that does water jet cutting locally so will be contacting them for a price. And a finishers that do powder coat as well as wet spray.
So although I'm in Austria, progress is being made. [emoji4]
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I would have thought wet spray would be more durable than powder coat? Thinner and more brittle thereby not letting corrosion creep underneath? Plastic, metal and water are a fatal combination.
Totally agree Frank. I've never had a good time with powder coated ally especially near the sea as we are, hence being pleased to find the wet sprayers. Acid etch primer and wet spray is far better IMO.
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powdercoat can suck, I have 2 ARB bumpers proving the point...
Depends totally on the process and material. Cheap powder coating is rubbish and some in fact I more like electrostatic paint spraying. The stuff we were having the cubby decks covered with was very high quality. Not just stuck but bonded.
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Ive found it to be a very durable finish on mountain bikes. Recently had the cruiser wheels done, see how that fares in the long run...
Had mine done and they have chipped already when the wrench slipped. [emoji22]
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The thinner the paint the less deep the chip will be and water will not hold there. When metal is exposed, as in bonded or not, it will rust. The rust will go sideways and if the paint is brittle it will flake off to leave a dryable area but if plastic at all the water creeps underneath and stays there.. I've had my tow bar and bike carrier galvanised, not very pretty but indestructible. The dipping during the process even galvanises the insides of tubes.
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I had my wheels etch primed and wet sprayed 15 years ago and they are in PERFECT condition apart from a few very shallow chips down to the ally. Thee is no corrosion appearing even though some chips are years old.
Hence the usual reasonable looks of powder coated steel with tell tale splits at edges where it can come off in sheets.
With the company I've found doing both wet and powder, hopefully I'll get some good advice. Personally, I'm going for wet spray.
With the company I've found doing both wet and powder, hopefully I'll get some good advice. Personally, I'm going for wet spray.
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"Powder Coat" may be a bit like "Biro". Things may have moved on recently and PC may be better than years ago. It was easy to apply as in a Gorilla advert. You could not put too little or too much on. With spray it's difficult to get an even finish especially with a shaped piece. You can miss bits or put too much on which leads to a run.
I am told this is the case Frank, there are various treatments that can be applied so I'm going to try and get some advice. Shouldn't be too tricky to get the surfaces covered as mostly they are flat. There will almost certainly be a cost difference between wet and powder, then there's two pack paints. Decisions decisions.
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The professional body shops and production lines are using water based paints now. I don't know the regulations and whether or not smaller firms can still use the old style paints. Presumably you can get water based etch primer.
It's still possible to buy the old solvent paint which is what I use. I use etch, then base coat which dries to a matt finish, then 2 pack lacquer which dries to an amazingly hard finish. Gone are the days of hand flatting this. Even with sharp paper it's difficult to flat it and then impossible to get the flat back to a polished finish. Machines only with this. Even the pro' body shops can't get a perfect finish and have to machine polish.
It's still possible to buy the old solvent paint which is what I use. I use etch, then base coat which dries to a matt finish, then 2 pack lacquer which dries to an amazingly hard finish. Gone are the days of hand flatting this. Even with sharp paper it's difficult to flat it and then impossible to get the flat back to a polished finish. Machines only with this. Even the pro' body shops can't get a perfect finish and have to machine polish.
Ok, quick update now I'm back home. Picked up the prototype and took to the sheet metal shop for (hopefully better) pricing. Will try and get it painted this week but work is getting in the way [emoji53]
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Interesting. Wish I knew where they got their hinges from.
These are one item, door only and not formed to the vehicle. They have locks and hinges but the hinges need fitting along with a cover strip, to the existing vehicle aperture which is then the frame for the opening. The seal is fitted around the door itself.
I would be surprised if they sealed well against rain and I'm not sure how the hinges fit.
Oh, and they're not painted or shipped.
$444 for one
$850 for two. That's £541.11
Makes mine look good value don't you think?!!
These are one item, door only and not formed to the vehicle. They have locks and hinges but the hinges need fitting along with a cover strip, to the existing vehicle aperture which is then the frame for the opening. The seal is fitted around the door itself.
I would be surprised if they sealed well against rain and I'm not sure how the hinges fit.
Oh, and they're not painted or shipped.
$444 for one
$850 for two. That's £541.11
Makes mine look good value don't you think?!!
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