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80 series power upgrades!

Declan

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Apr 25, 2017
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ireland
Has anyone modified their 1hd-t engines?
Seen a larger ct26 casing and compressor wheel for sale locally and was thinking of getting it, along with and upgraded intercooler, any other hits or tips etc
Thanks
 
Have made a few mods for performance gains including top mount intercooler and 3” custom exhaust. My next mod is a larger EFI front casing on the turbo and compressor wheel to up the boost.

These are the most common mods most do because the 1-hdt doesn’t have a electronic tuning brain.

Not sure how much these count for but I do know it will never be up to the standards of a modern vehicle I.e Audi Q7 or BMW etc
 
Have made a few mods for performance gains including top mount intercooler and 3” custom exhaust. My next mod is a larger EFI front casing on the turbo and compressor wheel to up the boost.

These are the most common mods most do because the 1-hdt doesn’t have a electronic tuning brain.

Not sure how much these count for but I do know it will never be up to the standards of a modern vehicle I.e Audi Q7 or BMW etc


I know it’ll never be up to modern specs but just looking for an extra bit of power, the casing seems cheap and I’ve a ct26 in need of a rebuild anyway so it would be handy just to get it done with the larger housing etc
 
I know it’ll never be up to modern specs but just looking for an extra bit of power, the casing seems cheap and I’ve a ct26 in need of a rebuild anyway so it would be handy just to get it done with the larger housing etc

Yes it does make a difference if towing or having to pull uphills etc. Certainly it pulls better but would need to drive another stock form to see any difference as we kinda get use to things after a while.

Having the larger casing I am having to make a adapter so the stock air intake hole will fit the different housing. I'm hoping to do this in a month or two and be interested in seeing how yours turns out.

If I had to do these in order I probably do this turbo first then exhaust and then intercooler if need be from my experience. These all tend to cost a far bit when adding them up...lol
 
Yes it does make a difference if towing or having to pull uphills etc. Certainly it pulls better but would need to drive another stock form to see any difference as we kinda get use to things after a while.

Having the larger casing I am having to make a adapter so the stock air intake hole will fit the different housing. I'm hoping to do this in a month or two and be interested in seeing how yours turns out.

If I had to do these in order I probably do this turbo first then exhaust and then intercooler if need be from my experience. These all tend to cost a far bit when adding them up...lol


I won’t be doing anything with this for a good while just looking for info as I’m doing a full restoration on my 80 at the minute I wonder could you just get a silicone hose adapter or something similar to fit the new housing?
 
I won’t be doing anything with this for a good while just looking for info as I’m doing a full restoration on my 80 at the minute I wonder could you just get a silicone hose adapter or something similar to fit the new housing?

I'm not sure at best as my mechanic has done this before quite often. I know somehow its going to be machined probably the exhaust inlet being cut to suit but far importantly for the air intake a adding a piece to attach the existing air duct too. Hope that makes sense with the illustration. Will know better when I get it done and will do a write up to share.

280b2de0-a90b-44a9-8dfb-b79f9d07d1f4.jpg
 
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I'm not sure at best as my mechanic has done this before quite often. I know somehow its going to be machined probably the exhaust inlet being cut to suit but far importantly for the air intake a adding a piece to attach the existing air duct too infant. Hoe that makes sense with the illustration. Will know better when I get it done and will do a write up to share.

View attachment 138774


Ok I’ll keep an eye out for your write up, thanks!
 
Tweaking the fuel pump will give you cheap thrills for the time being.
 
If you look in the right place you could probably get your hands on a marine fuel pump and injector set. The last time I nearly bought one I think it was going to cost around £450 for both from a seized engine. Can add upp to 150bhp depending on how you set it up but the first thing I would be doing if I was you is replace the BE Journals or it could run like a new pc only with windows installed....
 
The marine applications of the 1H series (Yanmar) benefit from far superior cooling of both the engine and intercooler so I would be very cautious of trying to run such mods in a Cruiser. Marine engines are usually also set up for different power delivery so may not suit a road vehicle. JMO
 
yes but you can tune the pump down until you add custom rad and exhaust etc etc. If you want full power then you will prob melt the pistons but I would say an extra 30-50hp should be readily attainable. The marine engines get run at 0 revs or wot but a truck is unlikely to run at max rpm continuously plus it has the added advantage of rapid airflow. I reckon somebody with an abundance of spare engines should give it a rattle hrrm hrrm Karl Webster..
 
I'd love to Glen. All money though. I'd be interested if I could find the bits needed for 450 though that's for sure.
 
https://www.tradeboats.com.au/tradeaboat-reviews/engines/1310/yanmar-6lpa-stp2-engine-review

file:///C:/Users/Me/AppData/Local/Temp/6LPA-STP2.PARTS.MANUAL.pdf

https://www.scribd.com/doc/30496789...STZP2-Service-Repair-Workshop-Manual-DOWNLOAD

I wont sign up for the free trial workshop manual but i thought it might be interesting for someone to compare specs with the landlubber version and of course we would all love to know about how and where the two differ .

I've thought a lot about putting the marine engine in a truck and i really can't see where or why it would fail . Holeshot power delivery is important in a boat when a blip of throttle is all you have to stop maybe 10 tonnes bouncing off a wall , surely that has to make for a good standing start in a 3 tonne truck , and as a general rule boats will plod on all day every day at around 2500rpm against far more drag than a truck could ever encounter .
I imagine with 300+ hp , standard gearing and 37 inch tyres you would be breaking the speed limit at 2500rpm .
 
The differences are pistons, injectors and fuel pump as well as exhaust manifold to allow for water injection. They use a heat exchanger system, although raw water cooling
would not be such a problem on a steel block via alu block. maybe it uses a lower ratedr thermostat but it is essentially the same engine. The operational nature of the marine plants makes them more prone to failure such as moisture/water ingress, failure of the raw water cooling system and a lot of high load changing. I.e boat operators want instant response and generally engine may sit for extended periods but not be winterised properly. A decent marine unit will cost £7-£10k but parts can be a lot cheaper if you look in the right place or know someone. The engine was sold under Yanmar and Yamaha branding as well as an obscure third party name. you wont get second hand pistons cheap as these engines generally become scrap after internal failures or seizures but fuel system components can be got easier because they don't give the same problems.
 
Would like to compare a turbo from each version side by side , or if you know someone running the marine version what boost pressure they are seeing .
 
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