90 series for overland, simple engine ?

[JakeM]

hello all

can you clear something up for me?
i'm interested in buing a 5 door 90 series for uk use, i.e a work vehicle + greenlaning + family cart.
It should fit this bill perfectly.

I'm also looking at potentially overlanding one day.
So my question is how simple is the 3.0td engine? is it as simple as a landrover 300tdi? or the engine of the 80 series?
Or is it running on a more modern ECU like the 100 series or a land rover TD5?

Can anyone enlighten me?
thanks in advance
jake

 

[Beau]

The 3 litre engine is the 1kzt-e engine.

Notice the "E" there. It means electrical fuel pump, the ECU controls the amount of fuel going to the engine depending on various thing (throttle sensor, gear you are in, Pump pressure and many other things). Other than that it is a very simple engine. The fuel is measured out at the pump, not the injectors like the newer D4D engines. The engine does have a known fault of the radiator getting blocked up and leading to overheating issues, leading to cracked heads but if you pick up a well maintained one then you should be fine.

It is overall a very simple engine I would say, nothing much to go wrong.

It really depends on what you want.

 

[JakeM]

THanks.

So are these electrics, ecu/sensors/etc, known to be very reliable?
there's no limp home mode or any of that sort of thing is there?

sorry to mention land rovers. The 300tdi and then the TD5 are worlds apart with reguards to electronics. the TD5 being somewhat feared for overlanding because of this.
can we say that the Colorado engine is nearer to the 300tdi in terms of simplicity? I realise it does have an ECU, but if this is known as very reliable, then there doesn't seem to be too much to be concered about. As long as it can drive on with a fault rather than being a non runner because of a dirty sensor or the like.

It seems that a 3.0TD is way way more reliable than the Land Rover I currently drag about. So once i'd learned my way around a land cruiser i'd be happy to travel far in one.

Sounds like i've convinced myself already!!

 

[Beau]

The sensors are Bulletproof. I have never known for any problems with sensors ect.

There is no limp mode, I dont think so. I think there have been times where there can be a fuel shortage due to various things, most of the time filter blockage and the engine will seem to go into limp mode, as the revs would be restricted due to a fuel shortage.

Once regularly maintained, treated well, the engines are Bulletproof!

 

[Andrew Prince]

As Beau has said, provided the cooling system is kept in good shape, these trucks are bullet-proof. Simple and easy to work on (if you have to) and no reason not to travel far in one

 

[Graham]

Keep on top of the cooling, by that we mean
1/ The pesky auto box oil cooler, that is conjoined with the engine water cooling, (only obviously on the auto)
2/ For some reason, still to be accurately identified, the head can give crack trouble.

Has any one ever had a sensor malfunction on the KZTe ?

Not heard of, or read about some thing like that packing up and going west.

All in all, a damn reliable engine.

Gra.

 

[Bounder]

I put up 276k miles on mine without and drama, the only real failure I had was the front diff when the oil seals failed and I didn't notice the oil had gone.
Apart from that its all been plain sailing, just regular oil changes and general maintenance and they will go for a long time.
I'd personally go for a manual at that age of truck especially if you plan on overlanding it.

 

[JakeM]

Yep it will be a manual.
So the radiator/cooling system just needs flushing from time to time? Yearly?
I've read about someone using undiluted coolant only. Is this necessary?

 

[Bounder]

I'd fit a new rad and thermostat probably a 76 deg one if you can find one.
A good Nissens brand rad is just over 100 stg and will make life simpler, the old ones block up inside and flushing doesn't seem to work.

 

[wobbly]

As its a manual then a pattern brand will be fine - when buying it make sure it is a manual rad design, which gives longer cores inside - I have seen sellers advertsisng auto rads as being suitable for use on a manual by simply blanking off the the atf in/out pipes, its probably ok but the cores will be a little shorter.

Personally, as well as a new rad, I would fit a water pump and cambelt, as well as thermostats. As mentioned, whilst not as bad as the 2.4 for cracking heads, they are still prone to this.

I am looking at exactly the same, and I will be using genuine parts for the cooling side (sadly, a genuine rad for an auto is about £450.00!!).

If heading for a hot climate, an auxiliary electric fan may be a good thing.

The correct mix is 50/50 using genuine Toyota additive, I have read that too concentrated a mixture can adversely affect gaskets and seals.

Regards

Pete