ABS light coming on intermittently??

[robthebox]

Thanks for that kind offer , I have checked locally here and zilch sofar will post here if I find one. Rgrds Rob

 

[robthebox]

Yes Chris my thoughts too something like bolt new unit on through bottom of a plastic box cutting out for lights and cable through lid. The exhaust side gets a bit warm though. Might still work .....

 

[Steve H]

Before you get a new switch check where the wires go through the rubber sock from the door to the body. My locking switch stopped working and it was a couple of wires broken off inside there. I extended the wires and reconnected them and all is now working ok.

 

[robthebox]

Cheers for that I'll have a look

 

[robthebox]

I hasten to add, got some silicoln spray on the window tracks and presto just like bought ones. You guys have saved me a load of time. The new bumper lights turned up from milners, they're mostly plastic so might last a lot longer,,,, I'll put loads of grease on the screws and put them back in and some waxoyl for the metal guard.
Just have one more problem when I've fixed the Central locking switch...
The Difflock.. its got power to it but tried every trick to get it to engage but no luck. There is also backlash in the transmission but it may not be related. smooth gear changes are really difficult ... like towing a car .. a bit of slack in the rope and you get a clunk that shakes the dash. The diff lock is the main worry though, has anyone been in there?

 

[Chris Green90]

As Far as I can remember from other posts there isnt any servicable parts. Simple if not cheap to replace...Assuming you don't climb underneeth to find a broken control arm mount...These are a common fault on the colorados and usually mean a replacement. IIRC £320 from milners.

 

[BobMurphy]

The Difflock.. its got power to it but tried every trick to get it to engage but no luck.
The diff lock is the main worry though, has anyone been in there?

Oh Yes . . .

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8159

Or:

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11474

And:

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11539


When you engage low ratio you should be getting the ABS Warning light coming on (that's intentional ).

When you select rear difflock you should get a red symbol showing the axles with a cross in the rear axle.

The red axle symbol will flash until the difflock is engaged.

Are you getting these lights ??

The problem with non-engagement could be the Difflock detector switch . . but is more likely to be the actuator I'm afraid.

Getting one off the rear diff intact is well nigh impossible - unless you are very fortunate.

First thing to do is ensure that the rear axle oil level is up to the mark and then give it a run before trying the locker (oily & warm is good ).

What are your symptoms ??

Bob.

 

[robthebox]

Bob .The rear diff lock symptom is ... not working and light flashing

 

[BobMurphy]

Bob .The rear diff lock symptom is ... not working and light flashing

Sounds familiar . . . The wiring is intact, but the Actuator is fubar'd.

If the Actuator can be removed intact (very carefully, with easing oil & heat over a couple of days if need be) then it can possibly be sorted.

Unfortunately the alloy case is quite thin and corrodes badly in road salt meaning that it jams in place and breaks when you try to remove it.

There is a heavy yellow grease in there that eventually goes hard and jams the works. If it can be stripped, cleaned and re-lubricated it will probably be Ok for a good while yet.

To be honest though, you're probably looking at a new unit from Milners at £400+ by the time postage and VAT have been added.

Worth trying to salvage it first, though

I have 'Pentland Cruiser's' old unit here and the internals are intact. If yours comes off without damaging the case I can probably re-furb it for you. Don't build your hopes up though


Bob.

 

[robthebox]

OK Bob I'll give it a try and thanks for your help.

 

[robthebox]

New bumper light units fitted today and no ABS warning light ... Fingers crossed. I am Mucho greatful for all the help from everyone, Thanks Guys

I am going to fit new disc brake pads on the front because brakes are pulling to the right. Do I need any special tools to get the piston back into the cylinder or is it a straight forward job. ?

 

[BobMurphy]

I am going to fit new disc brake pads on the front because brakes are pulling to the right. Do I need any special tools to get the piston back into the cylinder or is it a straight forward job. ?

Normally a straightforward job, unless the pistons are siezed.

Undo the caliper bolts and then lean on it a bit to push the pads & pistons back, pull it outwards as well. You should feel that you are gaining clearance between the pads and disk.

If its siezed (may only be on one side) I try levering them back with something flat - a small, clean bolster chisel works between the disk and old brake pad (don't knock it in ).

Once the stuck pistons start to move, pump them out against the disk and keep repeating until they are moving freely.

Only then remove the caliper from the disk - 'cos if you remove it first you'll pop a piston out

Remove the dust covers and clean them up, then use red rubber grease on them.

Its also a good idea to pump the pistons out a bit (against a block of wood) and put a drop of brake fluid around the piston/cylinder to lubricate each one.

Others will have different techniques

Bob.

 

[robthebox]

Thank you Bob ..... most helpful.

 

[robthebox]

Well that was fun, the dust seals are non existant now. The clip that holds them in place has kind of rusted together with the rubber and rotted through. the pistons are free .... but the local motor factor where I got the Pads just looked at me daft when I asked him where can I get 4 of these. I,ve been told that the calipers are cheap exchange wise ... would I be best going down that road ?
(I've put it all back together now with the new pads on.) Appreciate your input ... Rob

 

[silvercruiser]

I know ian rubie used to get the kits in but i think he has stopped selling now.

I found this on ebay but you might be able to find them cheaper

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Land-C ... 4841c3bc96

 

[robthebox]

Thanks mate, Big red may be the way to go yet. Thing is 1 recon caliper is or was £50.00 plus vat. This way I can do all four for that.
Thanks again. Rob

 

[robthebox]

whoops no make that 2 not 4.

 

[BobMurphy]

Before going for a 'reconditioned caliper' - check what you will actually be getting

I ordered one (a rear) from our favourite supplier and, despite the picture on the website showing a complete unit, I only received this . .

As my original calipers were in dreadful condition I ended-up getting a complete new unit from another source. I then sourced all the missing bits to make up a 'spare' from the re-conditioned core. Its still in the spares box. I think its a rear N/S, but I'd have to check.

The complete new ones look lovely when they first go on (but soon deteriorate in Scotland ).

Bigg Red looks the way to go if your calipers are serviceable.


Bob.

 

[robthebox]

Hi Bob
I have been working on the front ones ....pads held in by 2 pins. I will check the make next week when I get back from Winchester and will probably buy the big red seal kit . The calipers were not too bad once I chipped off the rust.
Rob

 

[BobMurphy]

The calipers were not too bad once I chipped off the rust.

My front calipers cleaned-up quite well. They were a lot better than the rear ones when I started:

I then spent a lot of time with wire brushes - a cup brush on an angle grinder for the accessible bits and small brushes in a drill for the fiddly bits:

Once clean, I masket off the important bits and sprayed them with silver 'Smoothrite'.

Then all back together with new disks, pads, pins, pipes & hoses.

The dust seals were OK and cleaned-up well. I put them back with red rubber grease. The pistons were lubricated with a drop or two of new brake fluid.

No trouble since

Bob.