ABS light coming on intermittently??

[robthebox]

Yes Bob they are the same as mine but in better condition. Yours look better than new ones, will the paint last though ?
Where did you get the red rubber grease, my local MF dont have any and looked at me in a strange way again......,

 

[BobMurphy]

Where did you get the red rubber grease?

I bought mine on-line, but I can't find the invoice at the moment (its probably in one of the five 'Household' folders ).

Its this stuff, though:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-999-fuchs-renolit-red-rubber-grease-grease-for-use-on-elastomers.aspx


As for the paint on the calipers . . I'm not sure how long it will last. Its over a year since I did them and they are starting to discolour now. still better than bare metal though .

Bob.

 

[robthebox]

Bob .... Thank you for that link.
I've had no luck on the central locking locking switch so far, may have to be main stealer. I have one idea though, the switch works for open, if I could see the wiring diagram of the door, I may be able to swap the wires over.
Cherers ... Rob

 

[BobMurphy]

If I could see the wiring diagram of the door, I may be able to swap the wires over.

Ooooohh . . I guess you haven't got a Max Ellery Manual .

The wiring diagrams are something else

I'll try scanning one and will post it here if you really want it

Bob.

 

[Chris Green90]

Sorry rob. Have not had chance to get down to my local scrappers. will Deffo go next week and see what they have

 

[robthebox]

Thanks for that ... Much appreciated.
Rob.

 

[BobMurphy]

Here you are . . . . Best of luck ( )

Best to buy a manual though (a plug for Max - in compensation for me borrowing his diagrams ).


Bob.

 

[robthebox]

Bob .... whooaayy... thank you mate from sunny winchester.
Rob .. ps let you know when i've rewired it.

 

[BobMurphy]

Bob .... whooaayy... thank you mate from sunny winchester.

Your welcome . . from snowy Scotland (bloomin' freezing , but I've got a log fire burning ).

Bob.

 

[Steve H]

Hi. Dont know if you checked the wiring inside the rubber boot between the door and the body but the ones inside mine hadn't broken the insulation just the cores inside. I took the drivers side kick panel off under the dash and disconnected the wiring loom to the door. Then I matched the colours from the window/locking swich and checked for continuity with a meter. Then just replaced the broken wires. I soldered in new wires and heat shrink wrapped all the joints. Only took a couple of hours and all now still working ok.

 

[robthebox]

Thanks for that advice Steve worth a look. How old was yours when it happened, mine is 01 156k on the clock. pity you cant tell how often the door has been opened though.
Rgds. Rob.

 

[robthebox]

Bob, where abouts are you in bonnie Scotland ... didd'nt know anyone up there till now.

 

[BobMurphy]

Bob, where abouts are you in bonnie Scotland ... didd'nt know anyone up there till now.

I live on a farm (I'm not the Farmer), just West of Edinburgh Airport. We are about 20 mins walk from Kirkliston.

About half a mile from the Newbridge Roundabout, where the M8 meets the M9, if you know that area.

A good place for plane spotters (like me ).

There are quite a few 'Scottish Members' on this and the 'other' site.

I'm not Scottish, though . . I moved here from Somerset in 1972 .

Bob.

 

[Steve H]

My Collie is 1998 and now on 161k. The wiring went about two years ago(bout 140k) just stopped working. It affected the heated mirror and the locking button but all the windows still worked ok on the door switches but not the master on the drivers door. Like you I almost bought a new switch but went down the "take it apart and see " route instead. Like to see how things work and as far as I was concerned it was bust any way.

 

[robthebox]

Bob .. Sounds great was a flyer many years ago PPL but couldnt afford to keep up the hours. Flew cherokee 140 Cessna 150,172 182, tipsy nipper, and air coup. Still like planes though. May give you a call one day when we explore that way .. if thats ok.

Steve was it easy to find the break in the wire ... ie more bendy on the break.

Cheers Rob

 

[BobMurphy]

Bob .. May give you a call one day when we explore that way .. if thats ok. Rob

Sure Rob, no probs. I'll PM you my contact details.

I always wanted to fly, but it was a hobby too far. The nearest I got was some hands-on in a glider at the Scottish Gliding Union, Scotlandwell (East-side of Loch Leven in Fife).

Bob.

 

[Steve H]

Yes it was. The wire bent really easily at the break ,almost folded the wire back on itself. The wire also looked thinner where the break was as the wires had parted inside.

 

[robthebox]

Thanks for that, you will have saved me some time with that info .
Cheers Rob

 

[robthebox]

Just a thought regarding the rear diff lock. Bob, you mentioned the thick yellow grease .... does it go runny when heated up ... could a simple heating up cure the problem, or how about drilling an oilway to the problem for WD or similar.

 

[BobMurphy]

Bob, you mentioned the thick yellow grease .... does it go runny when heated up?

I haven't tried heating the bits, but a bit of heat is a good idea if the unit is intact and all the wiring is OK.

This is the stuff I was referring to:

When you try to engage the difflock . . Can you hear the motor trying to turn the output gear and the rack ?? If you can I guess it could be made to work with some heat and maybe some oil injected through a very small hole as you suggest.

Something like the '3-in-1' spray would be my choice rather than 'WD40' that leaves a hard coating over the parts.

Where to drill the hole, though, Probably onto the gearwheel, spring and output shaft, i.e. into the side near the axle-end. Then plug the hole with some silicone sealant.

Still best to remove the whole unit intact - if you have the patience

I still have the bits from 'Pentland Cruiser's' Actuator, I'll try heating the grease and see what happens.

I'll report back .

Bob.