Air Conditioning radiator

[toolsplus]

A mechanic friend said something about fitting an additional A/C cooler.
Does the OEM system have problems eventually?
I'm on nearly 150,000 miles...

 

[Tractionman]

Where would an additional a/c cooler go?
The standard a/c cooler is massive, in front of the radiator, so anything even if possible, located in front of that would be a negative in improvement, as it would partly block original.
He didn't mean additional oil cooler did he ?

 

[toolsplus]

I think you're right,he meant oil cooler.
Why did he think it's needed?
Where do you fit it?

 

[Tractionman]

Dont know why he would suggest that, are you doing lots of heavy towing ? Are you manual or auto ?

I'm sure there is/are threads on here about additional oil coolers, apart from that, not much help - sorry.

 

[toolsplus]

I'll ask him when I see him...

 

[toolsplus]

Sorry everyone I'll start again.
He suggests draining and hence not using the auto-transmission cooler in the main radiator. Then fitting another A/T fluid cooler but not in the radiator.
Does that make sense now?
Is there a problem with the OEM system?
Cheers

 

[Lorin]

Sorry everyone I'll start again.
He suggests draining and hence not using the auto-transmission cooler in the main radiator. Then fitting another A/T fluid cooler but not in the radiator.
Does that make sense now?
Is there a problem with the OEM system?
Cheers

People who don’t understand the Toyota cooling system are forever suggesting that. These are the same people who often then go on about the dangers of over-cooling your AT fluid. Both are rubbish.

You’ll find that those who do understand the system suggest keeping the standard cooler and adding an additional cooler after. This can make a huge difference to fluid temps and help preserve your auto. Unless you regularly experience very low minus temperatures there is no downside to adding additional cooling. It is however important that your OEM radiator is in good shape.

No point doing this unless you are able to monitor your AT fluid temps as you may not even need it. If you run bigger tyres, tow and/or do a lot of sand driving or mountain passes then it is likely to be of benefit.

I have run with no additional cooler, a small cooler and now a big 34 row cooler and the difference is massive. My transmission would be toast with it.

 

[Tractionman]

Hi again mate,
His reasoning is I think, that if the bottom of the cooling read springs a leak/rots out, coolant will mix with A/T fluid - not good.
I haven't heard of it being a particular problem with the 120, but has happened with a few different series, and in reality, it could happen to anything that has the same arrangement.
This poses the original question of where will it be sited ?
Thinking out loud - replace/have made, new coolant radiator with one of same coolant capacity (minus the oil cooler) and squeeze a separate A/T cooler underneath ?
Coolant hose position should be the same, and seperate A/T cooler pipework shouldnt require too much fettling, as in the general area of original.
If the original dual rad is suspect, I would just replace like for like for a cheaper solution, they go on for years, some never require replacing.
Of course, if you need extra A/T cooling capacity for prolonged, heavy towing, you could go the first route and up the capacity of that part - if it's feasible.
If it aint broke, fix it anyway.

 

[Lorin]

Hi again mate,
His reasoning is I think, that if the bottom of the cooling read springs a leak/rots out, coolant will mix with A/T fluid - not good.
I haven't heard of it being a particular problem with the 120, but has happened with a few different series, and in reality, it could happen to anything that has the same arrangement.
This poses the original question of where will it be sited ?
Thinking out loud - replace/have made, new coolant radiator with one of same coolant capacity (minus the oil cooler) and squeeze a separate A/T cooler underneath ?
Coolant hose position should be the same, and seperate A/T cooler pipework shouldnt require too much fettling, as in the general area of original.
If the original dual rad is suspect, I would just replace like for like for a cheaper solution, they go on for years, some never require replacing.
Of course, if you need extra A/T cooling capacity for prolonged, heavy towing, you could go the first route and up the capacity of that part - if it's feasible.
If it aint broke, fix it anyway.

The coolant mixing with ATF is another of those supposed issues with AFAIK absolutely no evidence in Toyotas. I’ve certainly never come across any report of it happening in a Toyota. If the OEM radiator is in good shape this is not going to be an issue and as I stated above, that is a prerequisite for adding an additional cooler. Adding an alternative cooler is not a solution for an underperforming radiator.

If the OEM set up isn’t known to be an issue in the 120 then it sounds like a moot point - it isn’t needed.

 

[karl2000]

Didnt the 90's have a problem with it? Seem to remember reading something on here, could be wrong though

 

[Tractionman]

I'm wondering why the mechanic suggested it - he must have given a reason - or is he looking for work ?
Sounds like as said before, If it ain't broke, fix it anyway.

 

[Dave]

The cooler in the radiator is extremely effective. So add another one by all means, but keep the original, as you’ll need a massive extra one to replace it.

 

[toolsplus]

Thanks lads,
Some good answers and interesting stuff.
Looks like I'll stay with Mr.Toyota's OEM system.
Cheers

 

[toolsplus]

How do you know when to replace the radiator?
I'm on nearly 150,000 miles

 

[Tractionman]

When it leaks !
Seriously though, I think it's like how long is a piece of string.
Apart from a stone strike, a cooling system (radiator) that has been looked after from new with proper antifreeze, proper mix, regular maintenance/flushing, will last a whole lot longer than one which has had little or none of that.
Where the vehicle has been can play a part too, i.e. Scotland for example, where weather is bad and copious amounts of salt is used, and thrown up to rot the radiator from outside in, even with regular hosing down.
Think what that can do to chassis which is much more robust.

 

[toolsplus]

Maybe time for a rad flush,never done one before,sounds easy enough though?