Well, the rain finally stopped so out came the tools and overalls. GW now has 105k on the clock, so BEBs should be pretty good still, Duuur Duh (music from jaws)
Didn't have a lot of trouble getting the sump off. Took me about 45 mins. There is clearly a trick to it and I remembered that JV usually sets to with an air chisel, so I was fairly brave.
Unpleasant have oil dripping in your eyes, nose, ears, mouth. I drained the oil yesterday so I hoped that it might not drip much. Hmm
Took the oil strainer off to make better room to work. There is an egg cup full of oil still in there by the way. Did No 1 cyl first and was slightly concerned to see some scoring on the crank. After a mailed pic to JV and a chat, we decided that it was probably not terminal. All the other crank journals were pretty good.
Here are the results
cyl 1 to 6, left to right.
Cyl 1 actually look like mechanical damage as well as this scouring effect.
as well as this scouring effect.
The other shells are 'tolerable' if you like. But look at number 6
Honestly, I really think that this should have been a recall. My local Mr T parts man whom I have known for years, said that he didn't know anything about it being a problem. I shall be dropping these on his desk next week.
I used Graphogen assembly paste on the shells to give it a fighting chance to start with. Oil pressure came up pretty swiftly and it very slightly higher (on the renoundly accurate gauge) than before. Might be due to the new oil. Anyway. Had it up to temp, everything sounds, smells and feels fine.
Not a difficult nor technically challenging job, but you really do need to have the basics in terms of auto mechanics. Whilst it is as simple as take sump off, replace bearings, put sump back on, it's the tricks and techniques that get those stages done that are the key. So if you are handy, then don't be afraid of doiing it yourself. But if you haven't done it yet - THEN WHAT ARE YOU PIDDLING ABOUT AT?
Chris
Didn't have a lot of trouble getting the sump off. Took me about 45 mins. There is clearly a trick to it and I remembered that JV usually sets to with an air chisel, so I was fairly brave.
Unpleasant have oil dripping in your eyes, nose, ears, mouth. I drained the oil yesterday so I hoped that it might not drip much. Hmm
Took the oil strainer off to make better room to work. There is an egg cup full of oil still in there by the way. Did No 1 cyl first and was slightly concerned to see some scoring on the crank. After a mailed pic to JV and a chat, we decided that it was probably not terminal. All the other crank journals were pretty good.
Here are the results
cyl 1 to 6, left to right.
Cyl 1 actually look like mechanical damage as well as this scouring effect.
The other shells are 'tolerable' if you like. But look at number 6
Honestly, I really think that this should have been a recall. My local Mr T parts man whom I have known for years, said that he didn't know anything about it being a problem. I shall be dropping these on his desk next week.
I used Graphogen assembly paste on the shells to give it a fighting chance to start with. Oil pressure came up pretty swiftly and it very slightly higher (on the renoundly accurate gauge) than before. Might be due to the new oil. Anyway. Had it up to temp, everything sounds, smells and feels fine.
Not a difficult nor technically challenging job, but you really do need to have the basics in terms of auto mechanics. Whilst it is as simple as take sump off, replace bearings, put sump back on, it's the tricks and techniques that get those stages done that are the key. So if you are handy, then don't be afraid of doiing it yourself. But if you haven't done it yet - THEN WHAT ARE YOU PIDDLING ABOUT AT?
Chris