Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Any guides to diesel pump removal?

M

MisterCruiser

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
399
Country Flag
ireland
Loks like im gonna have to get my fuel pump reconditioned, and will do the timing belt at the same time, already found a timing belt guide thanks to another member, but wouldnt mind reading a guide on the diesel pump removal/installation itself before I get stuck in. Would anyone have a link, found a few interesting bits whilst searching but not many pics as such. :)
 
I found some good guides and info for removing the pump in the meantime and I notice in many cases people are having to use a puller tool to get the tapered shaft of the pump out of the pulley housing, does anyone know where you can buy a specific tool for this as most of the ones used in the guides were diy made by the lads themselves, if a specific tool was available at a reasonable price I wouldnt mind buying it.
 
Any replies at all? What keeps the pump timing correct, when the pump and its pulley is removed even when they're sitting at TDC before removal, will the pump only go back in one way meaning the timing will be correct afterwards once it was correctly alligned upon removing?
 
I havent seen anyone posting anything on this, so if you dont get any replies remember to take lots of photos, yours could be the bible!

Good luck

Pete
 
What pump is it the 1kz-te engine ? if so Beau is the forums expert on these from him i have learnt you can turn up the fuel on these pumps very easily and the pump itself contains i think its 3 separate filters which can be cleaned and replaced . It's all posted on the forum somewhere if you can find it .
 
Yeah, its the 1KZ-TE engine, a 90series Colorado. Its been weeping this while and getting harder to start the engine, now when it does start it cuts out 2mins later so i think its finally give up. Am confident on the doing the timing belt, just not sure what way the timing will be when putting the pump back in unless it'll only fit the one way. My local diesel reconditioner said its common for a little o-ring to turn to an "oval" shape on these and that its usually a simple fix, but obviously I need to get the pump out first.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Chris Green90 said:
http://etoymag.free.fr/manuels2/1KZ-TE.pdf

page 311 onwards
Click to expand...

Cheers for that! Thats a big help, something to follow. :)
From reading the removal procedure it appears Ill only have to remove the Large nut of the pump drive and wont have to remove the pump pulley itself. Looks like the pump only fits in the one way aswell so not too bad. Ill need to make a pullers though, from reading related threads on this forum Ive seen plenty of diy pullers being used to get the pump out of the housing, hopefully it'll be straight forward.
 
Shayne said:
I very much doubt it could go back in any other way but the correct one , its electric and all the connections face outwards (towards the left wing) so they can be plugged in . Maybe if you turn up the fuel a little until you get it sorted it might help http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...evices/page7?highlight=digital+tuning+devices
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, Ill read that thread now, seems interesting. But, Ive known the pump to be dying this while and had anticipiated it needing a recondition in the future so I think im just going to go ahead and get it done altogether now.
 
Firstly the pump has no direct timing related to the engine so doesn't need to come out and go back in a certain way. The spill control valve deals with that. From what you have described it sounds like you may generally need a fuel filter service to help your start up issue, which is predominately the spill control valve getting stuck and shitting the engine back off.
 
Beau said:
Firstly the pump has no direct timing related to the engine so doesn't need to come out and go back in a certain way. The spill control valve deals with that. From what you have described it sounds like you may generally need a fuel filter service to help your start up issue, which is predominately the spill control valve getting stuck and shitting the engine back off.
Click to expand...

Howdy, I dont understand when you say the pump has no direct timing related to the engine. As it stands, ive rotated my crank pulley clockwise and all 3 timing marks, crank,cam + diesel pump all line up with their pointers. If i remove the pump, it and its pulley will have to go back in with its mark on the pulley lining up with the pump mark as it was before i'd have removed it? And if i take the pulley off before removing the pump, the pulley would have to go back on a certain way so as its mark lines up with the pump housing wouldnt it?

The cruiser got a full service recently along with a new fuel filter, the pump has been weeping this few months so I think it is the pump, but maybe not.
 
Hmm i had a new clutch fitted recently and while he was at it he changed the fuel filter . Ever since i've found my truck hesitant to start in the mornings . No suggestion it won't start but it turns over a few more times than i would like before it fires . I wonder if its a related problem ?
 
Is the spill control valve inside in the injection pump itself? By bringing the complete pump to a diesel reconditiones and getting the pump reconditioned will the spill control valve be checked and repaired at the same time? Is there anything I can check before condemming the pump and removing it? There is diesel fluid leaking from the pump though, so does this not suggest the pump is the problem?
 
pumpadjustmentju4.jpg
 
Shayne said:
Just found this and i think the first part listed is the spill valve so it looks like you can replace just that bit . Why don't you just pull the cap off the top and take a look , it seems unlikely but it is possible the tiny adjustment screw it hides might just be lose ? cost nothing to look .

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1995_TOYOTA_HILUX_KZN130W-GKMQT_2203.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, I checked it there now and the cap was a litle awkward to get off, I can safely say it was never off before. Anyway, the adjustment screw wasnt loose. I took a picture just for reference.
Spilloffvalveadjustmentscrew_zps9bf35b0e.jpg

Any other suggestions?
 
From what I understand from these engines, the pump itself is driven off the engine pull/pressurizing the fuel within the pump/Injector lines, but it is the spill control valve that measures the fuel going into the injectors, so I therefore believe the pump pulley doesn't have to go on the way it comes off. This is just my theory anyway...

I have a Brand new 1KZT-E pump if you're interested... I also have a second hand spill control valve knocking about
 
Beau said:
From what I understand from these engines, the pump itself is driven off the engine pull/pressurizing the fuel within the pump/Injector lines, but it is the spill control valve that measures the fuel going into the injectors, so I therefore believe the pump pulley doesn't have to go on the way it comes off. This is just my theory anyway...

I have a Brand new 1KZT-E pump if you're interested... I also have a second hand spill control valve knocking about
Click to expand...

I think I read on this forum or something I searched that apparently the pump can be removed from the 1KZ-TE engine without removing the pulley, do you know if thats correct? Does that then mean I dont have to remove the timing belt when removing the pump?
What price is the new pump by the way, might be interested, depending if my pump turns out to be goosed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Username
Water pump for BJ73 with VM 5 engine
Replies
1
Views
166
Marek
Marek
Andy
Turbo & injection pump upgrade
Replies
18
Views
1K
Bat21
Bat21
A
200 D4D DIESEL OR PETROL
Replies
6
Views
1K
Raj
Raj
O
Correct belt sizes / names?
Replies
0
Views
257
oneafrikan
O
M
80 series diesel injector pump.
Replies
12
Views
1K
SeaJay
SeaJay
Back
Top