Anyone fancy some 70 series flexy wheel arch extensions?

[ModelMakerMan]

Im in the process of making some new improved wheel arch extensions for my KZJ70. Im using the OEM ones as a guide so they should look almost identical to the stock ones but they wont be hollow (so wont fill up with mud and rust the arch away) and they will be flexible (unlike the original fiberglass jobbies which just break as soon as they get rubbed). Im also thinking of making them bolt through the wings instead of using the crap pop riveted brackets which just rust and are a nightmare for those without arch extensions to add but Im still working on exactly how they will be mounted.

Now if all goes to plan I should be able to offer these arches for sale to anyone who would like a set (price unknown as yet but I can guarantee they will be a darn sight cheaper than buying the naff fiberglass ones from Toyota) but I need to know:

Firstly if anyone would be interested?
If the OEM width is enough or would slightly wider be better?
Any ideas for how best to mount them?
Any other requirements I might have missed?
Finally (dont all rush at once) I need a guinea pig, someone who uses their 70 for trials or similar where they are likely to be rubbing banks and trees etc.

 

[Trevor]

Sounds an interesting idea. I currently don't run with any but having put spacers on my 70 today I was thinking about putting some on. In terms of mounting them, probably not feasible but....would be nice to be able to slot them on by sliding them down onto some sort of fixings, and be easily removed by lifting....why?.... when laning it would be good to take them off and chuck them in the back and put them back on for the journey home to keep Plod and the MOT testers happy.

I think OEM width would cover running 25 or 30mm spacers?

Happy to be a guinea pig

 

[Chris]

It's 80 ones I need!


Chris

 

[angus]

Great idea, would certainly be most interested in a set.

I've got a set of take-off OEM ones that have been re-painted in satin black and then wrapped and put into storage. For a sensible amount I'd be prepared to sell them.

Keep us posted.

I don't have any constructive ideas on the mounting approach.

 

[Ben]

what are you making them out of?

personally i wont be fitting any, as ive just got rid of all the rot and rust in my truck and dont like the idea of drilling through the new body panels to fix the arches on, as im sure this will over time cause rust.
good luck with it though.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I'm interested Dave. The Toyota system is a nightmare of rusting brackets and pop rivets, so that has to go. What fixings do Land-Rover use?

Ben,

Looking at the video's of you on the Breasthigh Road and in Garsdale Forest, it was obvious that with your lift and 35" tyres, you were having trouble with side slopes. Your motor would be more stable with an increase in track. On mine I have 1" spacers plus 32mm neg. offset 8" rims. This increases my track by about 4" over yours.

Roger

PS. Is the digger still parked on the Breasthigh Road?

 

[isle of man]

I'm interested.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

They will be polyurethane rubber over-moulded onto a special hi density rubberised foam. From what I can see Land Rover arches are mainly Polypropylene or ABS and are held on with lots of little self tappers but they are hollow which means they will fill with mud.

Ive made a few small samples and the mouldings are pretty robust but I dont think lots of self tappers round the thinnest edge would work, also it looks a bit rubbish and means drilling loads of holes in the panels which Id like to avoid. Im also toying with moulding a rigid ABS strip inside to see if this makes mounting any easier but have yet to test this.

Just to re-iterate these will be designed to fit SWB 70 series, I have no idea whether they will fit LWB or any other makes/models at this point.

 

[sae70]

Why not use a PU panel adhesive to stick them on, such as you get with after market body panel kits

This way would require no drilling and if an even coat was used across the back of the arch you'd never have any trouble with trapped water or mud

Such as Tiger seal http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Tiger-Sea ... B002SQY852

Technical Details
PROBABLY THE BEST ADHESIVE SEALANT ON THE MARKET
AND IS NON SHRINKING AND PERMANENTLY FLEXIBLE
USED FOR BONDING BODYKITS,SPOILERS ETC

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The adhesive route is a good idea.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

I was thinking Id use an adhesive sealant behind them anyway to keep the crap from going down behind them but I still think a few screws or bolts will be needed too, especially as it would be a nightmare to try and hold them in the right place while the sealant/adhesive drys.

 

[Ben]

I'm interested Dave. The Toyota system is a nightmare of rusting brackets and pop rivets, so that has to go. What fixings do Land-Rover use?

Ben,

Looking at the video's of you on the Breasthigh Road and in Garsdale Forest, it was obvious that with your lift and 35" tyres, you were having trouble with side slopes. Your motor would be more stable with an increase in track. On mine I have 1" spacers plus 32mm neg. offset 8" rims. This increases my track by about 4" over yours.

Roger

PS. Is the digger still parked on the Breasthigh Road?

i certainly intend on getting a set of -32mm off set rims. i bought a set of -38mm rims which are on my other set of 35"s but there a 15" rim. i did want to get some aggressive 35"s x 15 but couldnt find anything suitable so had to go for 35" x 16 as 35"s seem a lot more common in 16".

ive got 20mm wheel spacers on at the min, so i will see how these are with the new rims when i get them.

trouble is its all money. plan is to fit new engine asap, then fit X-ENG hand brake, then get stainless exhaust made and fitted. then either new wheels, or get front and rear lockers.



i think Stevens idea is a good one. i might be interested if i dont have to make any holes to fit the arches.

RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) sealant would work well. its often used for sticking spoliers and body kits on amongst other things, is very strong when set, yet still very flexible.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-SILICONE- ... 1205wt_698

holding the arch in place while the sealant dried wouldnt be a problem. a few clamps would work perfectly.

these are the ones i use. the best clamp ive ever used.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-12-XTRE ... 1872wt_982

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Hmmm I think the adhesive idea is definitely something that needs to be tested thoroughly which is why I want a guinea pig who drives their truck in testing situations lit trials etc.

I dont think RTV would be up the the task really; I removed my numberplate light earlier this evening which I sealed to the bodywork with RTV and it just too a good tug to get it off. I think they would need something a little more adhesive like the stuff sea70 suggested.

 

[Birder]

Sika (256) windscreen adhesive would hold them, but you would also need activator (209) on the painted bodywork.

 

[Simon_LJ70]

Dave, I could be interested if it doesn't involve bolts or screws as like Ben I have removed the old ones, filled and painted to prevent rust. I used some adhesive to seal and hold in place the sunroof, the bodyshop gave me it and it is flexible but really tough, will find out what it was.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Ok leave it with me, Ill do some small scale tests with adhesive and get back to you.

 

[Cptsideways]

Tiger Seal is the best stuff in existence!

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Tiger Seal is the best stuff in existence!

Until you want to remove it haha!

 

[Garfieldus]

I'm interested in a pair for the front, I have a KZJ78.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Coolio

Im just starting to source the parts and materials I need for this and starting to clean up and modify the masters. Ill be working on these over the winter so should have some prototypes early next year.

Ill keep you all posted.