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anyone using a K&N type filter?

fast but dim

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Mar 28, 2011
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hopefully i'll be getting a lindop box, and i'm thinking about getting a performance filter, not just for more poke, but my 120's going to be with me for a while, so it seems to make sense.

any stockists / alternatives / advice would be appreciated :thumbup:
 
Personally I'd stick with Mr T's filter. I think the jury's still out on what benefits, if any, a K&N gives vs what potential for damage there may be given the larger pores etc. I think this be a can of worms ye be openin', in the best Jack Sparrow accent!
 
fast but dim said:
not just for more poke, but my 120's going to be with me for a while, so it seems to make sense.

A contradiction? Surely Mr-T knows what is best for his engine? If you wanted tons more power and cared less about the engine I would say try something else but if it is longevity you want...?
 
Crispin said:
[quote="fast but dim":3gnak5tt]

Surely Mr-T knows what is best for his engine?
[/quote:3gnak5tt]

:whistle: copper for injector seals, 10k service intervals..........

tbh i'd not thought there was a downside to performance filters, i'd assumed the fitting of paper filters was a cost thing / revenue generator at service time. I'm not doubting you both btw.
 
The injector seals was because a junior was left to design them ;)
I always associate K&N filters with a 50cc motorbike I had has a kid and trying to get it to get the magical 100kmh :pray:
 
Nothing wrong with K&N

It increases the airflow and can be used again and again. Treat your old filter to a declogging session and it's the same principle.

DiD
 
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my lindop box is now fitted :thumbup:

anyone got the part no. for a k&N for a 120 diesel?
 
K&N is a great high flow air filter designed for the track and race cars that get the engine stripped regularly.

They will be fine if you stick to road use and avoid harsh air environments.

However if you start going to harsh environments you may well end up with contaminates into the engine. Some filter tests were done in desert conditions and the oil analysis did show increased silica (basically sand) in the oil, which was not present in cars fitted with factory filters.

To be honest to get the higher air flow they simply have less fine particle filtration

Personally I will stick to the factory filter.
 
Stick with the factory paper one.
Keep the engine more cleaner

Gra
 
If you are changing out dirty airfilters everytime you do a service, a K&N isn't for you.
Best stick to the standard Toy one and maybe get one of those cyclone prefiltration systems.

If your airfilter is just a bit black with a few bugs, then a K&N filter with their filterwrap added is a good buy. Most of the time only the filterwrap needs cleaning and it pays for itself in a few services time.

Haven't noticed any big increases in power.
Nothing more than what a new and unclogged airfilter gives you.
 
When you're using a K&N filter combined with their filter wrap you get the following steps working for you.

First the filter wrap is a not to dense thick foam oiled with their filter oil.
Not to dense foam cuts up the airflow and the filter oil traps the smaller particles.
Second is the oiled K&N filter itself.
Woven and pleated cotton fibres provide some filtration.
Woven steel mesh provides heavy particle filtration.
Everything oiled in with the filter oil traps most fine particles.

Again most of the times I only need to wash and re-oil the filterwrap.
And clean out the round OEM air filter box, most of the bugs end up stuck to the side of that air filter box.

The standard Toy filter box creates a cyclone effect, so I spray the inside with a little bit of DWX31. Anti-rust and traps the bugs.

Same as stated above the dirtier the filter you are pulling out during service the more you want to do cyclonic prefiltration of the airstream. So you're air filter isn't working as a muck catcher, but rather as a fine particle trap.

Oh and turn that horrid muck sucker snorkle on your rig backwards.
They only provide extra induction when travelling at speed, and greenlaning isn't a speed thing. So you want it backwards preventing mudspray from the guy in front entering the air induction system.
 
chriscolleman said:
Oh and turn that horrid muck sucker snorkle on your rig backwards.
They only provide extra induction when travelling at speed, and greenlaning isn't a speed thing. So you want it backwards preventing mudspray from the guy in front entering the air induction system.
Or put a Donaldson "top hat" pre-filter on top of your snorkel ;) Maybe not that useful in muddy conditions, but a big benefit in very dusty conditions (on the rare occasions these are encountered in Europe).
 
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