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Baselining a 1991 (modified to 1994) FJ80 with 450,000 Km

Vulkyn

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Joined
May 14, 2022
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egypt
So finally decided to get my dream car, managed to find one that fits budget and condition (Project care to restore as well as use)

With limited car experience (particularly off road vehicles) I'm pretty much a noob (did a boat restoration though so love getting my hands dirty).
I want to take things slow learn and do as much as I can myself , when its over my head I will try to find some one who is willing to get me involved.

As it stands the car has had a lot of changes and upgrades done over the years so baselining is where i would like to start.
Mods and everything fancy far down the track, for now I need to start understanding where each part stands, what I should maintain and fix.

The car does need a whole bunch of love, I'm going to start with a proper wash XD so I can find my way around the engine.
So for start @Carter was kind enough to send me maintenance schedule, what would be the advice on my next step ?
 
Spose clean up the outside and inside to your satisfaction going along you would be able to see what needs fixing or replacing you could remove the seats and give the carpets a really deep clean and or replace as needed give the engine gearbox transfer box and axles an oil change renew diesel air and oil filters the fan and timing belts it would also be best if you renewed the coolant and most members would suggest the water pump and have a good look at the radiator for leaks and condition of the cooling fins and the oil cooler that will do for now as later there is the braking system and wheel bearings adjustment and renewal don't be afraid to ask questions and if something is complicated use your phone or tablet to take pictures
 
So i bought the car :D feels like its an old friend. I am quite surprised on how the familiar the car seems.
I did not drive any Toyotoa's before (Barely drove 4x4 even) but it seems like we are old friends already.

Drove the car about 350 km ( around 217 miles) and loved the drive! Initial things i felt as follows:
  • There is a bit of play in the steering (its lifted so not sure if its because of lift or wear and tear)
  • When hitting road bumps at higher speed sometimes there is a jerk in the steering (its like something should be absorbing the impact and isn't or its being transferred to the wheel)
  • There is a noise when the car start from the engine below the quickly disappears.
  • With about 450,000 KM on the engine feels a bit underpowered i would imagine a rebuild is needed soonish. (would a compression test help ?)
  • The exterior and interior will need love but that's down the line, for now engine and electrics.
  • The old man Emo lifted suspension was quite pleasant, quite surprised on how it handled considering its lifted. There is a bar at the front and buffers not sure how that impacts things but overall i think suspension is ok.
  • AC worked fine in 41 degrees temp (seems its a later body fitted on an older 1991 chassis as it has back ac vents).
  • Lighting is bad and the front end needs work (i think there was an issue there some time ago)
  • I have not inspected fluids yet but i think a coolant flush is in order and systematic fluid change
  • The gauges work (Oil temp was slumping too low for my comfort but i am not sure if thats normal in this car, the previous owner did install the stock gearbox oil cooling system as well.
  • Gearbox felt ok shifting was a bit sudden but im not sure if thats normal in this car or not
  • it has 2 tanks the pump works fine but rather slow (is that normal?) the model i have only transfers from reserve to main tank i understood there are other models that have duel pumps directly to engine.
  • The car has front lockers (not sure if that the right name for them) that engages and locks front wheels making it all wheel drive or back wheel drive (saving fuel i guess and putting less load on the engine)
Overall the car is drivable and pleasant cant wait to get my hands dirty !
 
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Hi, a few things to start with:

1, Play in the steering. The steering box is adjustable, but needs to be done with care, get it wrong and you find the roundabout your on you will not be able to get out of as the steering can jam in one position., you say it is lifted, can you do a check to let us know by how much? Any vibrations from underneath that vary with speeds?

2, A jerk in the steering, if the lift has not been done in the correct manner and the springs are not rated correctly the front axle could be hitting the bump stops? Also whilst under there check the steering box mounting around the chassis and the same for all other connections including the panhard rod, at that age the chassis could be rusting allowing the components to move and in a worse case scenario tear out completely, a steam cleaner or jet wash and a wire brush are your friends here, with the 80 on the floor, have someone rock the steering hard from side to with the engine idling at the same time you use a torch and look for any flexing of the suspension/steering/panhard connections including to the body and between each other.

3, The noise could simply be the starter, if that is the case and depending on the stater age, the starter gear might not be clearing the starter ring on the flywheel as the engine starts, easy to correct? Other noises could be if the under floor heater pipes have been modified cutting out the heater as the pipes often rust through, if not done properly the cut pipes bang on the bulkhead where they have been bypassed as you start up, other issues could be the engine mounts failing allowing components to touch as the engine fires, loose exhaust or missing bracket/mount.

4, A compression check would be advisable before a tear down, a service and timing check along with a set of injectors would be good as well if the compression check comes back good. Being a a twin cam petrol engine it has a timing chain so no worry about the belt. That is not a really high mileage engine but it depends where the mileage was done as it does make a difference.

5, The lighting on the 80 is generally OK assuming the wiring is good and the relays are working correctly, here in Spain there are many country roads and I find the dipped beam a little 'wanting', main beam is fine, I recently changed out the dip/main bulbs for a pair of 'Philips' version, these bulbs have a blue tint apparently giving me a 'whiter white', yeh I know, that sounds like a washing powder advert, I cannot presently drive due to recent brain surgery, so cannot comment if this has improved anything, you can upgrade the bulbs to higher wattage's, but this mean more load (amps) on the wiring and relays (not the most reliable on these older cars), again easy enough to get around.

6, Flushing all coolant and oils always a good idea, I do a 'sacrificial' flush on the engine using two filters at the same time, the oil in my engine on the dipstick as clean as it went in despite it being diesel!

7, Oil pressure, the senders do go bad and over time so does the calibration of the gauges, you can re-calibrate the sensors/gauges on oil, coolant and fuel gauges, it's an interesting fact the temperature gauge is 'dumbed down' on the 80, so it often reads in the middle within a few minutes of starting and never goes above unless the engine is close to serious overheating, again a simple modification with a couple of resistors can sort this, The volt meter can be adjusted but as long as the needle is in the middle with everything turned off including the ignition, and doors are shut it rarely goes wrong, and without decent graduations it is a guide only, use a decent volt meter on your battery to see if all is well.

8. A change of gearbox oil has to be done a couple of times to get it clean, draining the sump does not drain the torque converter, you can faff about disconnecting the oil cooler and pouring fluid in as old fluid comes out, personally I would get it warm (not hot), drain the sump and change the filter, measure what came out (assuming it was correct before you started), and then refill with the same go for a drive just for a couple of miles going through the gears ensuring the valve body gets some of the new fluid into it, then drain and refill again, not changing the filter this time. Depending on mileage covered during your ownership I would consider a drain and refill once a a year for a couple of years to keep everything tip top.

9, Re the fuel pump, the main tank feeds the engine and the second tank feeds the main via a switch on the dashboard, if there are some models that have the twin pumps that is handy if you have a pump go down from a get you home point of view but the two pumps would have to be similar pressures, I am not familiar with the two main pump system, @chapel gate might be able to assist you further here?

10, You would need to clarify your locker question, the typical 91 model did not have a switchable 'locker' on the front or rear axle, I have heard about them but have never seen one, I am convinced there is an element of confusion here by those not familiar with the system? You will have a centre lock which works within the transfer box, but in general the 80 is full time all wheel drive. or part time, there is little to be gained by the part time system, they were simply cheaper to purchase than the all wheel drive system, fuel savings have been proven to be minimal if any at all, and there is talk of wear on the drive line being reduced, again more speculation for sure. Those that have paid out a lot of money to do the conversion wold never 'fess up' that there was no gain.

I would say to make questions easier to answer you check out exactly the model combination you have, for example does it have rear drum brakes, always a good sign of an earlier model, AC in the back of a 94 body would normally be a Japanese import, adding that you have a speedometer in km's? The chassis number should be on the chassis rail behind the front right hand wheel, this will determine the chassis year and make purchasing parts easier.

Regards

Dave
 
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Dave amazing stuff thank you !

I just realized I dumped too much information at once sorry about it, so let me take it point by point to make it easier.
First some engine pics before cleaning just to have a starting point: WhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 10.28.08 PM (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 10.28.08 PM.jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 10.28.10 PM (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 10.28.10 PM (2).jpeg

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Yes I know but i'm in love XD

1- Not sure how to measure the lift any pointers ? (It has 285 tires)
2- Sure I will do probably friday and also take proper pictures of the under carriage while I'm at it.
3- Yes the exhaust box is shot its the original no point in welding so new one will go in (thats a separate issue) I will record a video and sound while i'm under it.
4- I did get the manual but i'm way over my head so I will ask a friend who has far more car knowledge then myself. What would be good compression values for the engine?
5- Sorry to hear that, I hope your feeling better and wish you a speedy recovery.
I think its the whole system, the direction, lamps and alignment more pics ! You can see from the pictures that the car works but needs a lot of love.
6- Yah did that today, unfortunately i didn't take any pics but engine oil was changed regularly by owner (I think he has a custom oil filter - More pics!)
7- That is all Chinese ! only thing i got is volt meter XD So I guess i need to measure resistance to understand if its working or not. The oil gauge does not raise (even after the long drive) it didnt pass 25% so im sure it needs sorting.
8- Does it have a magnet in the bolt like outboard engines ? They tend to attract any metal flake when you change oil not sure if thats on cars as well. I will do that for sure.
9- Yah i read this was the old system, aux tank has a filter feeding in main tank so one pump only. I guess after 1995 or so it got 2 pumps direct so more redundancy in case fuel pump fails (But does that cancel between tank transfer?)
10- Right i attached a picture to clarify, its a manual "engaging" and disengaging of the all wheel drive system if I understand correctly. So when disengaged your operating back drive onlyWhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 10.58.50 PM.jpeg
So regarding the model year i think my car is a Frankenstein of sorts it has disk breaks front and rear, on the license its a 1990 the interior and body is 1994 i think. I will get the numbers to investigate, but here are some points:
A) Yes it has dual AC zones front, refrigerator (under arm rest) and back zone between above 2nd row seats.
B) Yes in KM's
C) Chassis number is different from VIN ? or back then was it one thing.

This is my new babe, i finished restoring my 1992 Seaswirl boat (Link below :D) and this is my next project to keep my sane (far too much stress in life already!) So forgive my ignorance as I really appreciate your help.
https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/1992-1993-seaswirl-195-swl-purchase.56535/and

Dave truly appreciate you taking all this time, very kind of you mate.

Vulkyn
 
Yah forgot to mention i seem to have quite a lot of rust i must look at and deal with ....
 
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Your welcome, there will be others along to help, I am not working or busy so can put some time to your questions.

And no worries about the surgery, my next set of tests will be sometime this month, so fingers crossed to get my licence reinstated, I feel confident though.

The chassis VIN mismatch can be an issue, check the number on the bulkhead plate and the one the chassis behind the R/H front wheel, if your yearly inspectors are like the Spanish, the car will be logged as 'Dodgy', and will need to be sorted out asap. Use the different numbers to work out what year the chassis and body came from, a tip here is look closely at the seat belt labeling, they will have the body year stamped on them as they cannot be manufactured and then left in stock to stand before fitting for more than 1 year, much like tyres although most people take no notice of the tyre year.....except in Spain!

Compression changed with different models, you will have to do a handbook check, unless someone can save you some reading?

Those front hubs are manual locking versions, check they rotate freely both locking an unlocking by hand, never....that is NEVER drive with them locked on firm surfaces like tarmac, steering will become very heavy and bind up on corners, tyres screeching on corners is a good indication you have forgotten to unlock them! Being left locked in those circumstances can cause excessive wear, incidentally if you do find yourself a little bogged down and unable to steer out of muddy ruts, then get out and release the hub locks, you will be surprised how this can help you get out of difficulty, I know it goes against the obvious, but trust me on this. You must also have a 'LOW RANGE' selector by the transmission selector, see if this puts out the ABS light if you have one, again indicating the year of the car, 93.....ish onward had ABS. YOu can look for the ABS pump which should be a few inches in front of the brake servo, I can't quite tell from your pictures.

Tyre size is irrelevant to checking ride height, the workshop manual you have will tell you what the correct dimensions are, I take the lift dimension from the bottom of the bump stops to the top of the axle, some say from wheel rim to wheel arch and some say wheel arch to centre of wheel but this is wrong, so use the first method, that is bump stop to axle as it is the only correct way to do it.

I can see a problem with those headlights, they look like they have been filled with muddy water unless that is on the outside? There should be four rubber covers over the bulbs at the rear? The only way to sort if mud is on the inside the headlights need to be removed, prise off the clips from the plastic side only or you will crack the lens. Using a hair dryer or hot air gun soften the mastic around the lens, then with a plastic chisel ease the glass away from the plastic housing nice and gently, not too much heat though as this will buckle the plastic housing. Note: Only do one headlamp at a time, this will allow you to check the orientation of the outer glass lens assuming they are the same as each other before you start. The glass is easy enough to clean however, where you will need to be careful is the chrome plastic reflectors the chrome will come off at the slightest provocation. With the bulbs removed (do not touch with bare fingers), run the housing with reflectors still installed under warm water as they will almost certainly be muddy as well. With a soft paint brush clean the reflectors up, dry gently with a tissue, but still do not rub too hard. Once dried run a bead of mastic around the channel ad ease the glass back into place and refit the clips, leave the bulbs out allowing the mastic to dry and any remaining moisture to escape, then ideally refit a new set of bulbs, do not be tempted to replace with the higher wattage versions unless you plan to upgrade the wiring. Refit all four rubber covers over the bulbs, otherwise you will soon see them filled with water or mud again. Something else, many Japanese models have the sidelights with twin filament bulbs, when turning a corner the higher wattage filament lights up in the direction you are heading, much like the modern cars we are seeing fitted with these days, completely ridiculous, cut the wire feeding the 'cornering lights' and just leave the sidelights working in the normal manner, this will help sorting the wiring if you have issues there. the orange indicators will still work in the normal manner

Discs all round indicates a chassis later than a 90 this year was drums at the rear, I am not sure if the axles can be swapped, maybe someone else on here can help? IIRC the discs all round started around late 93, but this is coming back as an import more and more from Japan to my thinking? Measuring the front discs will also help as they were smaller on the earlier models. AC front and rear again indicate a later year and again adds credence to the import theory. You need to get a grip with this VIN issue...again ASAP. Also whilst in there see if you have ABS? Your 80 does sound a little 'Heinz 57' but again good to know what you do and don't have. Another point is the automatic 80's all seem to have came with 285 tyres and yet only 275's on the manual?

Both differentials and both the gearbox and transfer boxes you will find magnetic plugs in, if not you can buy them, a couple of tips here, the differentials have one type of sealing washer on the plugs and the gearbox and transfer a different type a steel versus aluminium difference, I cannot recall the actual difference of what goes where so check it out, also make sure you loosen the filler plugs BEFORE you remove the drain plugs, it is not uncommon to drain the component and then find you cannot remove the filler plug to put the oil back in!

Something else, the under bonnet felt looks a little worse for wear, they are very expensive from Toyota, I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago with a new one for a Mercedes, for under 50 euros! It fits pretty good with a little trimming, I used a new set of OE clips as the old ones will break off, if going the Mercedes route get two packs of ten, as it is a little er........floppy! will find out where I got it from.....yeh you have to bear with me on some 'stuff'. :)

I hope others will chime in as I have lost a considerable amount of memory on a lot of stuff, so anythings that need correcting I am sure they will help.

Regards

Dave
 
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Much appreciate :D

So lots of updates, first here are the car chassis numbers and engine number. The chassis is right, however this car was original a diesel and got converted.
It has the 4.5 EFI petrol engine with a 4 speed Auto transmission with no abs or airbags fitted.
The frame was originally for UAE hence the 3 zone AC.

The right side frame (the one attached to the snorkel) is rusted so bad, it seems to have had an impact and was not dealt with. I think i will replace that side.
The back side seems to have random rust spots, upfront is far better. The owner did use it to launch his boat hence the accelerated corrosion.
He did use water to remove sea water but apparently not enough.

One issue is that the cutout fuseWhatsApp Image 2022-06-10 at 10.27.49 PM (4).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-10 at 10.27.48 PM (4).jpeg/WhatsApp Image 2022-06-10 at 10.27.48 PM (2).jpeg box overheats excessively he does not know why, what would cause that ?
 

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In the 2nd picture it looks in very good condition... well done for finding one that looks very good from where the pic was taken.
 
Something else, the under bonnet felt looks a little worse for wear, they are very expensive from Toyota, I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago with a new one for a Mercedes, for under 50 euros! It fits pretty good with a little trimming, I used a new set of OE clips as the old ones will break off, if going the Mercedes route get two packs of ten, as it is a little er........floppy! will find out where I got it from.....yeh you have to bear with me on some 'stuff'. :)
Do you mean the heat cover under the bonnet ? Its so difficult to find those in Egypt for this model.
Which model for Merc? and sure take your time as we get 45+ degrees in Egypt keeping things cool is critical lol :D
 
Cut out fuses are common on the 80 now they are getting old. The lift looks like it has been achieved with coil raisers? Ah the UAE, are the inspection stations going to be happy to pass it on inspection, and the insurance company?

Get all this sorted out before you spend money doing anything else.


Regards

Dave
 
Cut out fuses are common on the 80 now they are getting old. The lift looks like it has been achieved with coil raisers? Ah the UAE, are the inspection stations going to be happy to pass it on inspection, and the insurance company?

Get all this sorted out before you spend money doing anything else.


Regards

Dave
Yah its all been inspected and renewed for 10 years now, this is what was done previously. I am going next sunday to change car license and ensure everything is ok before diving in.

The lift is old man Emu, coil raisers, shock absorbers and buffers (there is a bar at front not sure what that is, sway bar maybe?)

Anything i can do for the cut out fuses? It overheats badly the owner was telling me he wanted to add a heatsink. Would grounding be a reason or just high resistance from older wires?
 
Had a long day yesterday took the car for my first bit of repairs.
1) The middle exhaust box was shot dead, shot again, burned, shot and stabbed repeatedly. Had to change it and unfortunately due to Egypt's current crises I couldn't find original Toyota ones so copy for now.
2) Bolts where rusted tight (this was the original one has never been changed before) so had to heat and break them.
3) Fitted a new one in ..... extreme car improvementWhatsApp Image 2022-06-12 at 10.29.11 AM (2).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-12 at 10.29.12 AM (2).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-12 at 10.29.12 AM.jpeg in everything.

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Thats all i could find fitted and changed exhaust mounting as well with new ones.
The other 2 boxes seem in good condition.
 
Also bought gearbox oil, gearbox filter but thats for future repair as i intend to clean and change gearbox oil for a proper base line.

Fitted a small camera that was the perfect size for the trunk key hole, its unfortunately a bit higher than i wanted but at least i can see behind me !WhatsApp Image 2022-06-12 at 10.44.57 AM.jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-06-12 at 10.45.43 AM.jpeg
 
Now the ugly part, there is really bad body rust in the car frame. This means i need to change both left and right front sides, 4 doors and front end carrying the lights beams (the 3 part cross section bars)
I had expected some rust but this is a serious issue. The car was not sealed properly e.g the side lamps had a big gap meaning water passed through to the less protected inner side.
Fortunately its actually cheaper to replace rather them than try and treat it.

There are a couple of rust spots in the frame i will address with those. The undercarriage is in much better shape.

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So lots of updates :)
I will summarize below:
  1. Overhauled the under carriage as follows:
    1. 4 back bushings changed, they came out in bad condition
    2. 2 back front bushing changed (the castor corrections ones from the lift are ok!)
    3. Front rubber scale changed (I'm trying to translate sorry ! not sure if its the correct terminology)
    4. Back rubber scale changed
    5. Steering suspension bushings changed.
    6. tightened everything (was super lose!!)
    7. Front differential was loose and dripping oil tightened (I need to change oil front and back differentials)
    8. Tightened steering wheel play (needs further work in the future)
    9. Changed back wheel suspension finger thingy (that's the best translation i could find lol)
  2. Changed drive steering mount (It was severally worn and had lots of play)
Steering is civilized now!
  • Changed main head beams to LED
  • Had AC leak after changing exhaust, it melted the AC tubes (Yah :S ) repaired and moved out of the way.
Cleaned the engine bay (finally) and now its just extremely dirty :D (well it was epic dirty)

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Get all this sorted out before you spend money doing anything else.
Yah just the bear minimum for now to pass inspection, I am going to change the 4 doors (metal frame) and the right and left side fenders as they have too much rust. Paint, install then a quick overall frame clean and paint to avoid any issues with inspection.
 
4 hrs of engine cleaning later XD

I covered anything electric (i was worried about the older cables losing their seal) hence the areas with dust.

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