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Bought One at Last! LC4 2005, 55, FSH, Now Need full Service help?

Right guys,

Hers is a last minute update, after looking at all the parts and speaking to Simon at Toyota on the phone and discussing the parts, I decided to go fully original to play it safe. So Simon is hooking me up with everything to do the full filters and fluids change across the board.

The thing he could not beat was the Tensioner, so that's coming from Rough Trax. So a bit of business went to both main recommended dealers on this site.

Was great speaking to them and Simon even gave me a update on the car and mentioned that recall Ref 1613G was done, Oil strainer campaign. So with the injectors running fine and the above done, feel a more happier than before.

Thanks for all the advice guys and a big thanks for Simon.
 
Good to hear Simon helped out so well and great piece of mind to know the injector washer/oil strainer recall was done

So Simon also sells the oils ? I never thought to ask him about the oils
 
I wouldnt use anything other than genuine on the timing belt train, belt, tensioner, and water pump.
 
Good to hear Simon helped out so well and great piece of mind to know the injector washer/oil strainer recall was done

So Simon also sells the oils ? I never thought to ask him about the oils


I just sent him a email with a huge list of parts I need and bought the lot. Rang him about fluid issues as Rough Trax fluids numbers were slightly out. So I played it safe.

Timing belt is gates and water pump is blueprint, the tensioner is the one on roughtrax's site.

I will most likely go original next time, but gates and blue came recommend from a few people I spoke to compared to ECP, they said those much better choice.
 
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Working on the pics, still no clue on how to do them, I might need to load them onto mediafire type place first and then go from there.

Simon's order turned up in a huge box, every tom.dick and harry thing you can think off fluid and filter wise. Will take a pic of that.

Timing belt and full service is tomorrow morning. After that and a quick wash, I will take some pics you lot.

Oh - Fluids best practice, Rob mentioned you dont full drain the coolant, and same with tranny.

Can I reconfirm (Rob remind me), The coolant is drained but not fully? if they do what happens?
The ATS WS fluid I bought 3L, so only 3L comes out and you replace the 3L.

Anything else to watch out for!
 
timing belt and coolant changed today, lucky as the old pump had signs it was leaking. Glad to get it done. Service now next week
 
Sorry guys for not being online for a while, I got busy with work. But timing belt/ water pump has been done and service is being done wednesday (after 4 cancelled appts)!

Anyway pics to follow and I need to look for a cheaper Insurance quote. Swinton want £895.60!!
 
Hi Guys,

update again and apologies for posting for a while, just been a littlew busy, but to update...


Everything that was listed above has been done from timing belt to full service and all fluids!

Only thing outstanding is this Transfer Case/Box...

Mobile mechanic did the full service for me and said I had a leak on the transfer case/box.

Rob mentioned to me, that he was doing his and he bought the seal and nut from Roughtrax. So I ended up there and about to buy the parts...also he mentioned the oil needed (listed below).

Before I get the lot - is 2l of this titan stuff ok, quality wise??? The Nut and Seal has been given the thumbs up by member Rob, so those are what I am getting.

ALSO

My mechanic can't do it - anyone in the Caerphilly/Cardiff/Newport areas done this at a local garage - can they recommend anyone?


Thought I better check, if some garage close by done this on the cheap as I don't have the tools for it.

Cheers





Febest Transfer Box Rear Output Flange Oil Seal


For: Toyota Land Cruiser Prado KDJ120 3.0cc TD


Part Number: OSTR002 Weight: 0.02kg


Transfer Box Output Flange Nut

For: Toyota Land Cruiser Prado KDJ120 3.0cc TD


Part Number: DIFF015 Weight: 0.06kg


1 Litre Fuchs Titan 80W-90 Differential Hypoid Gear Oil

For: Toyota Land Cruiser Prado KDJ120 3.0cc TD


Part Number: OIL006 Weight: 0.935kg each (Total 1.87kg)
 
Re. Air filters... I've had my 120 a long time, and bought a k&n a couple years ago, on the advice of West coast offroad.
Considering they're a lifetime product the price wasn't too bad.
I know there are cons to a k&n, but I've got the part no. If anyone wants to but one.
 
Vik, any local garage should be able to do this. Don't understand why a mobile guy can't other than not knowing what is involved. There is a write up here for a Forerunner but it's the same procedure on a 120.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-case-output-shaft-oil-seals-how-diyers.html

Just to prove those are good instructions I followed them this morning and did my front seal. I would add; get the car lifted a bit. A set of Halfords ramps would be great. I did it all without lifting the car and there's not really enough room to swing a hammer to unstake the nut. Make the little unstaking tool in the instructions; I've lent my grinder to a neighbour who is out today. It was a pain with a small screwdriver - not really strong enough. The stake nut came off easily with a breaker bar, I'd seen warnings about how hard that is, it was the easiest bit for me. I couldn't hand press the new seal in, I used a 47mm socket and tapped on that, again I needed more room to swing the hammer.
 
Just to prove those are good instructions I followed them this morning and did my front seal. I would add; get the car lifted a bit. A set of Halfords ramps would be great. I did it all without lifting the car and there's not really enough room to swing a hammer to unstake the nut. Make the little unstaking tool in the instructions; I've lent my grinder to a neighbour who is out today. It was a pain with a small screwdriver - not really strong enough. The stake nut came off easily with a breaker bar, I'd seen warnings about how hard that is, it was the easiest bit for me. I couldn't hand press the new seal in, I used a 47mm socket and tapped on that, again I needed more room to swing the hammer.


Cheers Rob,

I found a local garage which will do it on the ramp as I dont have the tools for the job. I have bought the seal, nut and the 2L Titan Gear Hyp 90 (GL5 80W-90) as discussed.

Hope to have it in this Friday. Will update asap.
 
Right guys,

Apologies for the delay, but the seal has been done and new Hyp 90 has been added. Driven around a couple of 100 miles since and all is well.

Is there anyway to check the grease in the prop, they said they did it, but how do you check?
 
Right guys,

Apologies for the delay, but the seal has been done and new Hyp 90 has been added. Driven around a couple of 100 miles since and all is well.

Is there anyway to check the grease in the prop, they said they did it, but how do you check?

Hard to see grease really, depending on how well they cleaned off any old grease that was pushed out of the joint. If it looks like someone has wiped around the nipples then hopefully they did the job, and had the gun angled so it actually put grease in the joint.

To check the front joint on the front prop you'd have to take the bash plate off and by the time you've gone to that trouble you might as well just pump some grease into it yourself. Get a grease gun with a flexi hose. Plenty around for under £15. And if you do do it yourself you can pump away into the UJs (I do it until I see clean grease being forced out of the joints), but just give the nipples on the shaft itself one or two pumps or you'll fill the shaft with compacted grease and stop it sliding.
 
Hard to see grease really, depending on how well they cleaned off any old grease that was pushed out of the joint. If it looks like someone has wiped around the nipples then hopefully they did the job, and had the gun angled so it actually put grease in the joint.

To check the front joint on the front prop you'd have to take the bash plate off and by the time you've gone to that trouble you might as well just pump some grease into it yourself. Get a grease gun with a flexi hose. Plenty around for under £15. And if you do do it yourself you can pump away into the UJs (I do it until I see clean grease being forced out of the joints), but just give the nipples on the shaft itself one or two pumps or you'll fill the shaft with compacted grease and stop it sliding.


Cheers Rob,

Looks like I need a dry day and a spare hour or two to check it all out.
 
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