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Cam belt change

Rob

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Is there a write up somewhere online to change the cam belt for the 1HD-FT engine? Is it an easy job like on the 90? Looks fairly straight forward in the FSM but I don't see how I can compress the tensioner without using a press. Is it OK to turn it on its side and put it in a vice? The FSM says you should keep it upright at all times. Also can I use some liquid gasket to seal the cover? Looking for things to do while I wait for the air con compressor to get sorted :roll:
 

Jon Wildsmith

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putting the tensioner in a vice is fine or at least that's what I've done on 24v TB changes, just put a small allen key through the hole. Why do you want to put instant gasket on the cover, it seals well enough anyway? Can't remember if the FSM mentions it but unbolting the power steering reservoir helps with having room to get the cover off. Other than aligning the timing marks before removing the belt so you can be sure it's going back on right it's all obvious/easy stuff.
 

Rob

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Got a belt will give it a go. Jon FSM says the following:

10. INSTALL TIMING BELT COVER
(a) Remove any old packing (FIPG) material.
(b) Apply seal packing to the camshaft oil seal retainer
and timing gear cover as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing:
Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

Not sure what they mean so I asked about the liquid gasket. Is the camshaft oil seal retainer behind one of the pulleys? Anyway will give it a go now.
 

Rob

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Also am I right in saying that you rest the TB light by removing the little grommet on the odometer and press a switch/pin? How long does it need to be pressed and does the ignition need to be on?
 

Jon Wildsmith

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I defer to the FSM Rob but there's always been a rubber OEM gasket on the timing covers I've handled ... The reset is like the trip meter IIRC, push it till it stops and then release.
 

Rob

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Done my first timing belt ever! It was surprisingly easy. You have to remove the air con pulley as well as the power steering reservoir for access. The old non OEM belt was stretched even though it had only 17k miles on it. As a result I needed to move the camshaft pulley a bit to BDC so the new belt would fit. It would not move so used a bit more force and it moved a quarter of a turn :shock: I would recommend gently tapping if you come across this problem. Luckily all was OK and it runs fine.
 
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Jon Wildsmith

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Well done Rob, sounds like it's a good job you decided to do it.
 

Chris

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For some reason, Milner stock the 24v tensioner but not the 12v. I asked Karl and he said he can get them but has never been asked for one. At about £80 I'm hardly surprised. But the 12v is just basically a bearing on a spigot held under tension by a spring. There's nothing to really fail. Well, you know what I mean. It's hardly high tech.

Chris
 

Jon Wildsmith

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The first timing belt change on my old 80 (12v) it needed a tensioner as I could feel a bit of rough in the bearing but that was at 120k i.e. 2nd belt change.
 

Chris

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Obviously these 12v tensioners are not immortal and the bearing will eventually go as you have experienced Jon. The thing to watch for, if you take them off, is that there is a backing plate which can swing down then you put the bolts in. You crank up the bolts only to find that it's all gone a bit skew whiff. It's easily done. Twice actually. You must make sure that the bolts go through the tensioner AND the backing plate at the same time. I can't really see the spring wearing out although there is some grunting needed to clip it back on. Just how long the roller lasts for I have no idea. But I don't think that new belt new means that new tensioner is necessary on the 12v. I don't think that it's difficult to tell if it needs replacing. When you look at it you will wonder just why it costs so much though. I don't even think that you get the spring with it!

Chris
 

karl webster

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In my opinion i would 100% put a new tensioner on any cruiser that i am going to keep for myself. I have had a couple of cruisers that i have brought where the tensioner had failed. One of the trucks was a full main dealer serviced up with all stamps in book. I rang the agent and asked if it was fully serviced y them why it hadnt had one on it. They told me that unless the bearing is loud or play in it then they dont replace it.Obviously that truck must have been ok on the last service but it still let go causing major work to the head,new head gasket bolts etc etc etc and my wallet was less heavy than when i started the job. I had a prob with another truck and same happened but this time it had put a hole in one of the pistons as well. I thought that i could change with the engine in the engine bay but you cant get the piston out of the top even with the head off. I know of a man that did major engine rebuild to his 24v engine. he spent a fortune on it. He was advised that tensioner would be ok. He wasn't some muppit he knows alot himself as he did the engine build himself. He fitted his nice recon engine drove it for a very short length of time. Tensioner then failed for no reason at all. His engine he had spent alot of time and money on was then stripped and sold bit by bit and he brought a engine off steff. For a small amount of money i would rather have the piece of mind as i have had first hand experiences of the damage that can be done. I know it is only a bearing and i also know that if they are shot then they are shot. But sometimes things just go wrong.
 

Rob

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Karl just to confirm are you talking about the pulley/idler sub assembly as its called by Toyota or the tensioner the bit that applies a force to the pulley or both. I am asking as the pulley has a bearing while the tensioner doesn't and you talk about the bearing failing. Also at what mileages did the 2 fail?
 
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