can't give up chasing an 80

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Hi guys,
If i remember correctly somebody posted a checklist what to check when
buying a second hand lc80. I can't find this e-mail and I would really
appreciate if somebody can post this list again.
Yesterday I went to see a lc80 with 260.000 km and I agreed with the guy
that we meet today with my mechanic for "final inspection". The car was
never used off-road and it has a full service record. The thing is that
there was not much work done according to record - the only big thing
was belt replacement (the belt which runs water pump). This record also
worries me since all the big things are waiting for me ...
Any recommendation for inspection ? opinions ?
Thanks in advance for your help.
regards,
Tomaz
 
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Tomaz
Re > Any recommendation for inspection ? opinions ?
I think Bierfield.com have a comprehensive checklist also - a couple of
pages of a checklist.
Have it on a differenc PC - will see if I can get it. Goes through
every nut and bolt
Niall
 
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Hi Tomaz,
OK, 260,000km is around 160,000miles, which is where my truck is.
Firstly, have a read through the following newbie guide to give you a
flavour of the sort of things to check:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm
At that mileage I have had to do work on/replace:
Front and rear disks
Wheel Bearings - not necessarily required, but any wear/movement =excuse to knock some money off the price. If there is no history of
them being changed, I would change them anyway so at least you know
where you are with them.
UJs - as above
CVs
I also serviced the injectors and injection pump - the IP was OK
considering age, the injectors needed work.
Cam belt - this should be replaced every 100,000km/60,000miles
Big End Bearings - preventative maintenance, 2 out of 6 sets of shells
had severe wear, although had probably been like that for years - I
would budget to replace these anyway.
That's the main work I did, but at the end of the day a competant
mechanic should be able to check everything over for you.
Also check for smoke from engine, excessive noise, etc - does your
mechanic have experience of diesels?
With the interior bits like electrics, aircon - check them all
thoroughly - check every window, check every light, check the aircon
produces cold air in the cabin and there isn't too much noise from the
air con compressor - it's allways little things like this that get
forgotten in the excitement of getting a new car.
Also check the diff locks (assuming there are some there) - try to find
a field where you can drive around and engage the locks.
Good luck.
BTW - where are you?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Tomaz,
At 260k miles, if you are looking for a reliable transport for years
to come, I'd consider first of all if the bodywork and frame are free
from rust, if all electrical bits work OK, particularly the A/C, and
if there are no evident mechanical problems. The absence of the latter
will only tell you if you can schedule the work over a period of time
or things need to be rushed a bit to keep the cruiser on the road.
Sooner or later you won't avoid changing the injectors, maybe piston
rings, UJs, CV joints, wheel bearings, brake disks, turbo seals, etc.
flushing the engine block & radiator, replacing most of the rubber
hoses.
If the maintenance record is credible and complete, the absence of big
repairs is not necessarily a bad sign; rather, it may indicate that
the vehicle was not abused.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
 
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Julian

| I also serviced the injectors and injection pump - the IP was OK
| considering age, the injectors needed work.
I think I must have missed the "tale from the workshop" that detailed
this.
Could you elaborate on what needed doing, what it cost and whether it
made any (apparent) difference?
Thanks
Christopher Bell
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first of all thank you all for your replays !!!
roman - it is luckily 260k km not miles :) regarding abuse it look to
me that the car was mostly used for long distances on the highways since
the owners is not really the "off-road" driver.
yesterday i have checked myself the car for corrosion - and I was quite
surprised since the frame is in very good condition (on our roads they
use salt in the winter ...). The body was rust free - there are of
course few scratches but nothing serious.
I will print out the list and I will go trough it with the mechanic.
There is one more question coming to my mind - are there any problems
with cylinder heads cracking on 1HD-T engines ? And as far as I
understand one of the most problematic parts (and expensive to repair)
is injection pump - what is approx the cost of rebuilding the pump or
buying a new one ?
Regards,
Tomaz
 
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On 8/2/07, Tomaz Sustar <[Email address removed]> wrote:
OK, that sounds 1.609344 times better then :)
They do crack, but this isn't normally a problem to worry about. These
engines are bomb proof. In my engine there has been a hairline crack
for the last few years between the valve holes in cylinder six. Not
that I would notice if the machining shop didn't point it to me.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
 
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Hi Christopher,
It is recommended in Aus to get your injectors and injection pump
serviced every 100,000miles or so.
My 80 has always had poor consumption (18-20mpg) so I thought it was
time to give the old girl a service before Morocco.
I had the injectors tested and then serviced (2/6 had poor spray
patterns) as well as got the IP stripped and serviced and tested. I
used a firm in Swindon do the work - ?325 for the injectors and IP.
During our trip to Morocco, the average fuel consumption didn't really
alter from before the work, however we did have two tents on a rack on
the roof and a fully loaded boot and we weren't hanging around on some
days, so I am impressed - it's obviously made a difference.
I also changed the Big End bearings and also adjusted the valve gaps -
the latter may have also contributed to the 'improved' consumption.
On inspecting the old BEB shells I have noticed that they aren't all
the same size - which is unusual - I replaced with a single size across
the board so I'm going to go back in when I have more time and do the
job more thoroughly using plastiguage to work out the correct sizes.
I'll also mop up two minor oil leaks that have developed - one around
the pan and one from the oil outlet from the turbo.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hi guys,
after inspection and heavy "brainstorming" I have purchased the hdj80.
It is from 96 with 1HD-FT engine (24 valves) and with 260k km. After
inspection also mechanic agreed with my opinion that the car was never
used off the road and it is really good state (in the last year I have
checked several of them and this one is really well preserved). There
are of course some things which has to be fixed (Exhaust Box ...) but
nothing major.
Thank you all for your help answering my questions on this topic and
wish me good luck with this one .... !!!
Regards,
Tomaz
 
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Hi Tomaz,
Congratulations and welcome to the family!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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May be Tomaz you could meter the brakes disks for us so whe can know how big
they are, some of us have only smaller disks on 1HDT models like John
Byrne. My freind garagist say me that 1HDFT models has bigger brakes and I
can update to mine like yours just to change in the disks and calibers too.
Tomaz are you in Espagna?
2007/8/3, Tomaz Sustar <[Email address removed]>:
>
>
> It is from 96 with 1HD-FT engine (24 valves) and with 260k km. After
>
 
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Tomaz
| after inspection and heavy "brainstorming" I have purchased the hdj80.
|
| It is from 96 with 1HD-FT engine (24 valves) and with 260k km. Tomaz
Well done. Manual or Auto? (I have a 1996 1HD-FT manual)
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
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