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centre difflock switch 24v

That was going to be my next question ..... Can you use CDL whilst moving?
My old shogun sport could lock and unlock at upto 58mph
Surley the cruiser can better that or should i return to my yellow diamond beast
 
The manual doesn't say. I do all the time, and I think that if you should not, then the book would say. It says that the CD can be locked for extra traction, eg when slipping - referring to the CD normal mode above (in the manual) where it talks about driving on wet or snowy road. IE the CDL supplements the normal driving mode. To go into low, it is clear that you must stop first.


Chris
 
I just drop the clutch before engaging / disengaging centre lock.

not sure id want to be driving above 58 mph on poor traction surface thought - it's a lotta weight to correct if it starts to wander off on its own...
 
Hi Chris. You can damage the transmission with cdl on dry roads. That is why there is a dif in the centre so that differences between the two axles can be matched . If you have it locked on a dry road the two props are locked as one and there is no compensation for different axle speeds. so the whole of the transmission is under ever increasing stress, for this reason, during cornering on a slippery surface the front wheels may not steer in the right direction as they may not match the road speed. Someone did report on here that they had caused severe damage to a lot of the transmission after running for a long time on a dry road iirc something like 150 miles.
I have the cdl switch on mine and admittedly have not used it yet. On the farm where I worked we had a LWB landrover which was more dangerous to drive on a slippery surface in 4wd high range because it went straight on at corners when you hit a relatively dry bit. There was no cdl, just the 2 props dogged together. The range rover was the first rover to had permanent 4wd and the first ones did not have a cdl in high range.
But yes in snow and ice you may well be better off with it locked in high range. I had in mind high speed on a wet road where you may suddenly hit a dryish bend.
Frank
 
Frank, thanks for the lesson on how a diff works. :roll: Kinda think I get that. But the point is that the other ends are still completely open. I don't believe that the sort of damage that you are talking about is likely under the sort of conditions that we are outlining when the CDL is locked. The owners manual says that it is OK to lock it in these conditions. In a straight line - say on a normal road (wet or snowy) the CD isn't getting that much pain I'm sure. Having used mine extensively and my 120 and 2 other 90's I have had CD locked even on a dry road and turned at T junctions without even realising that it was engaged. No drama, jumping, squealing etc. I have been in a Disco when this happened and we drove into a ditch.

I am more than happy locking mine under what I perceive to be the right conditions.

Chris
 
Hi Chris
Sorry I have been talking cross purposes. However I have just tried my 80 on a dry road with cdl locked and it feels like the brake is on. Also when turning it does not want to go and there are nasty scrubbing noises and knocking from the cvc's. My 100 is the same. In fact after I had had it for a few days it "became" undriveable due to cdl being "seized" on. Jon had to come and sort me out and pointed out that I had pushed the cdl switch by mistake. At that point I did not realise the 100 had a cdl switch.

Frank
 
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I sort of got that impression Frank. You see mine just doesn't drive like that with it engaged.

Chris
 
Is it working? Or is it the viscous coupling helping you in the ice. Surely all 80's would drive the same.

Frank
 
As I said earlier

Brett said:
This is exactly why you want to have manual control over the CDL in low, manoeuvring a trailer on tarmac in low box with the CDL locked is awful, much better with the CDL open, low box gives you much better control of the trailer as you know. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I sometimes launch my boat at a horrible slipway where I need to use low box both for manoeuvring (about a 30 point turn!) & because it's steep, heavy boat etc. The slip is constructed from concrete so loads of grip, before I disconnected the plug on the transfer box it was hideous, as Frank says, CV's banging away steering heavy etc.

To reiterate, it is much better to disable the auto lock of the CDL in low ratio!
 
frank rabbets said:
Is it working? Or is it the viscous coupling helping you in the ice. Surely all 80's would drive the same.

Frank
Click to expand...

Mine aint got no freaking viscous coupling :hand:
 
Unless you have free wheeling hubs or something broken, locking the CD on a grippy surface should be very noticeable as soon as you turn the wheel. When CD is locked the VC isn't doing anything.
 
Deff working Frank. I spend a lot of time off road and there is no question that all the lockers are engaging and making a difference as each one locks. The VC doesn't give you that much when you are in a real grip situation. It keeps some drive to the front to keep you straight but not huge amounts more. When I lost front drive this weekend due to the snapped CV I was pretty stranded, it's true so the VC does get you going, but when you try some more radical move, there's no doubt what benefit you get when you press that switch. If I understand correctly, the VC delivers a 60 40 split most of the time but CAN deliver 100 to the rear. So the VC can in fact slip completely. I had my VC on the bench recently and it certainly seemed fine.

You would think that they'd all drive the same. Perhaps it's yours that's different? Sure, the truck is affected on tarmac when it's locked - which is why I don't do that. But it's only noticeable in a tighter turn.

Chris
 
Not sure if the wiring plug is the same for a 1997 model, I used a used Hilux hazard warning switch on mine (1993) from ebay for £11 delivered, worked a treat.
 
Remember that the older 12V's had the curved dash thus the CDL switch that came standard on the pre-ABS 80s fits fine. The switch for the 24V is different because of the dash and it was not standard on 24V's so breakers like Karl and Stef won't have many.

As Dave suggested, a hazard switch (from a 24V with the flat style switch) will do the trick. I believe Ecky did this on his. Speaking of which, I see it's Ecky's birthday today and we haven't heard from him in months... :|

Alternatively, see if you can get someone to pick a switch up from a Toyota dealer in the Middle East (Dubai), as prices are much cheaper and the switch is easy enough to pop into luggage!
 
Hmm IQ, that looks mighty close to the LC switch - at £10 incl. postage it's gotta be worth a stab. :thumbup: You could always resell if it doesn't work.

My guess is that it very well might work - it's not like it's a complicated function, just an on-off switch as best I can tell (hence a hazard switch does the job).
 
Just my 2p worth on the VC/CDL debate.
In my experience locking the CD on tarmac (wet or dry) roads WILL wind up the transmission as has already been suggested. I've tried it. It did the same on my Disco which only had a CDL and no cross axle locks. A correctly working VC will give 'true' 4wd on the road while avoiding the windup problems associated with a mechanically locked diff. Numerous opinions have been put forward as to why Toyota fitted the VC. IMO this is the only reason. Forcing too much 'slip' in the VC, ie. running with one prop removed and not mechanically locking the CDL could overheat and ruin the unit. I guess, in effect, it offers similar performance to a LSD?
 
I think I shall put my VC back in. I am feeling that the antilock braking system is designed in conjunction with it.
Does work like a LSD but old LSD's gave constant friction whereas I think The VC locks more and more; the more it slips.

Frank
 
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