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Change snapped front wheel stud on L78 Prado

zfsteering

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Feb 10, 2013
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Can anyone advise how to change a snapped front wheel stud on a 1992 Prado L78 Landcruiser import?

I have been to the local garage with this problem & they say that it is too complicated for them & that they need special Toyota tools?

With thanks.

Stephen Diarmid
 
Can anyone advise how to change a snapped front wheel stud on a 1992 Prado L78 Landcruiser import?

I have been to the local garage with this problem & they say that it is too complicated for them & that they need special Toyota tools?

With thanks.

Stephen Diarmid

Hi Stephen
This has been mentioned before, but cannot be much of a garage if they cannot do a simple job like that, all you need is a big
hammer and a drift, and knock out the old stud and then get one of these:
http://www.milneroffroad.com/toyota...le-frontrear-0/lj78-free-wheel-hub-stud-kit-0
and just pull the new one in with a nut !
 
Did my 120 (rear wheel) a little while ago and it was dead simple. They'll be referring to the SST that looks a bit like a 'G' clamp with two arms at the back to allow the stud to be pressed out - I went with a 4lb hammer and some 2"x2" timber to give me a bigger target. Only took two thumps to get the old one out.

When setting the new one, I had a pile of flat washers against the hub face for the nut to press against to avoid damage, and used a bit of Loctite on it. Worked like a dream.

Cheers
 
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This isnt a simple easy job unfortunately. :thumbdown:

You will need to remove the wheel, free wheel hub, 54mm nut, lock ring and second 54mm nut. Then you can remove the hub with the brake disc on it, taking care not to loose the wheel bearing that will fall out.

Next you need to use a hydraulic press to press the old stud out and then press the new one in.

I tried using a hammer and I cracked a brand new disc. :doh:

Once the new stud is in, you need to put everything back together. Idealy with a new oil seal, and after re-greasing the bearings.
You really need the factory service manual, so you can follow the instructions of how to correctly torque the 54mm nuts, test the bearing preload using a fish scale, and then finally torque the 54mm lock nut to the correct torque.

So not a 5min job. :icon-biggrin:

I also wouldnt use any thing but genuine studs. The milner ones I fitted seemed a bit too tight. Even with 20 tonnes of pressure, pressing them in wasnt easy. :think:
 
Last edited:
I agree with Ben. Wheel studs take a lot of stick and I would be reluctant to use anything other than OE parts.

Roger
 
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