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Clutch change - transfer removal question

Ciderman

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Hello folks,
Ive searched and read a couple of decent write-ups on changing the clutch from underneath, without removing the engine - in particular the unfortunate one where the OP dinted the spring plate and had to re-run the whole nightmare again...
Ive got the gearbox jack trolley jig thing, all the super long wobble bars and the patience... but i cant seem to find out exactly how to remove the transfer box.
Maybe its just a straightforward prop shafts off, selector stick remove and a ring of bolts, but is there anything to watch for?

Is there anything other than a splined shaft or are there any hidden internals that will either drop off or need releasing etc.
My clutch is nearing 180'000 miles believe it or not, and after 7 years of owning the 80, its had a rumbly release bearing (or possibly spigot bearing) the whole time and never got worse.
Its not slipped yet, but when cold, its very notchy gearchanging plus needs to be stood still if selecting first.... that tells me the plates barely separating (?).

Plan is to remove the transfer, remove the radiator fan, let go of the main box, tip it down at the back, twist and hopefully wrestle it backwards like some kind of contorted charles atlas..

Hopefully im not asking a really daft question or missed a superb write-up, but any help is appreciated.
 

Chris

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Take the T box off for sure. Around 7 bolts one end and a couple at the front. You can do it incl the props in around 45 mins. Well worth it. It's not a difficult job to do the whole thing especially if you've the jacks and so on. Take the starter motor stud out too. Form memory there are only something like 21 bolts to do the entire thing.
 

Ciderman

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Fantastic, thanks a lot Chris!
So once the various bolts are let go, the transfer just slides off as a unit?
I have the OEM workshop manuals (courtesy of this amazing forum) but i couldn't quite see if there was a shaft or just meshed gears between it and the main G/box.
 

chapel gate

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sounds more like worn synchros to me tbh.
 

Ciderman

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Hells teeth i hope not... however, when its warmed up - its as smooth as silk, plus no hopping out of gear or difficulty changing down.

Oddly enough, i did a gearbox oil change recently - using a decent brand of oil, precisely the spec in the handbook and immediately after that it was hard to select gears when cold.
I figured the new oil was possibly thicker than what was drained out and that was affecting the synchros ability to spin up the baulk rings etc.
The old oil was perfectly clear and zero metal on the drain plug. Its been annoying the head off me ever since.

Now you've said that i realise it could well be the cause.
Mind you, the slightest touch of the pedal and it slips - so its certainly not got too much life left.

Im going to go for a semi synthetic when I've done the clutch.
 

chapel gate

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go fully synth, makes a massive difference.
 
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chapel gate

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red line MT 90 is one of the best.

its expensive enough that you would probable rather drink it than put it your gearbox..
 

Ciderman

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Vat69 for me, WD40 for the wallet hinges and MT90 for the old bird.
Cheers for the info CG!
 

frank rabbets

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I think the thinner the oil the easier the syncro rings will bite. That's why a hotter box is smoother.
 

Dave2000

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As per @Chris removing the stud on the starter makes it easier to rotate the gearbox into position, there is something else as well, remove the two 'U' clamps holding the anti roll bar, this allows you to lower it down out of the way, funny how the gearbox seems to come out easy enough when the bar is in place, but seems to get in the way when maneuvering the gearbox back in, being so heavy it needs to be as straightforward as possible when replacing, lowering the bar simply makes it easier.

Stay safe,

Regards

Dave
 

Ciderman

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Thanks a lot Dave,
That is an excellent little tip!
Im hoping i dont need to use axle stands to get enough room underneath, as ive realised my gearbox jack trolley height might not reach the gearbox...
Its one of those draper scissor jack arrangement with 4 castors etc...
 

Dave2000

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No good I am afraid. You need to get some height under there to make it easier to work. You can use 4 typical ramps and drive the car up onto all four at once it that makes sense? Or jack and support on stands two at each end. Then get a sheet of thick ply (not chipboard), then cut the sheet in strips about a foot wider than you jack wheels on either side, you may need to stack a couple of these strips to get enough jack height? Sounds a bit 'Pete Tong' but it can be done, I was stuck at my ex's mothers house and changed the clutch in my competition......shhhh Land Rover and put the car on blocks of wood, worked fine. But remember the LC gearbox is heavy even with the transfer removed.

Stay safe.

Regards

Dave
 

Ciderman

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Hells bananas... i guess ill just have to give it a whirl and see what height i need to drop the gearbox and build up the height for the jack.
I guess a bit of "adapting" the new trolley gizmo might be in order.

My only real worry was getting the transfer off, and how tricky removing it was.
The rest will be a lot of wriggling, extremely colourful language and maybe an extra pair of hands to dial the emergency services ;-p
 
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Dave2000

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The transfer despite it's small size is still a hunk of steel and very heavy, if....and I mean IF, you can get a safe height then pull the two of them at the same time. A couple of reasons, the first is it saves time but the second is leaks. If the gap between the gear and transfer box is dry then disturbing them will mean replacing the seal, if they are wet then split them anyway. If not then best left alone, oh and the comment "Oh blast deary me....I would like to have kept all my fingers." is always a good line.

Stay safe.....under there!

Regards

Dave
 

Ciderman

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I do like my digits.
They are very useful for so many different tasks.... like pointing at things, counting with, plugging one or both nostrils, carrying a bag of chicken korma and dialling on a vintage telephone (as and when that is required).

I do already know that the joint between gearboxes is bone dry and tip top.... so im thinking even more profanity may escape while getting it removed... oh deepest of joys.
 

Dave2000

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Remember I have changed clutches on 4 x 4 when they have been just a few inches off the ground sitting on a couple of 4 x 4 pieces of timber, it is not easy but can be done, make sure you are not on a time limit, then take it slow step by step. Stop for a break whenever you feel like it, and this may sound odd but keep your hands and tools clean, well fitting Nitrile gloves will help, if you do not like them then washing up liquid with a handful of sugar adding a little water a bit at a time, home made Swarfega!

Stay safe.

Regards

Dave
 
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