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Coolant loss help please
- Thread starter Paulsven
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Beau
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I'm currently using the Milners Head Gasket on my truck and have done about 100k miles on it without a problem... I don't see any reason why you should avoid it. I've compared it to the standard one that came out and quality wise they looked to be both on par.
cavanmick
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I can't speak for certain about the Toyota version but on pajeros you just could not use the gasket from a milners (or any other)kit or you would have the head off again within three months.it had to be oe or Victor reinz, might work perfectly on a Toyota but if it was me I would not take the chance.
wobbly
Well-Known Member
I dont think it makes any difference whatsoever.
When Toyota designed this engine, they very cleverly protected the head gaskets by ensuring the head always cracks before the gasket goes, thus you could probably use a bit of old lino and it would be fine
Pete
When Toyota designed this engine, they very cleverly protected the head gaskets by ensuring the head always cracks before the gasket goes, thus you could probably use a bit of old lino and it would be fine
Pete
Ok, so having finally woken up from my winter hibernation I thought it was about time to open the garage door and do a few hours on the engine.
Quick recap! I bought a land cruiser from a fleabay liar who was rather economical with the truth regarding the coolant loss on his pride and joy! Long story short the block was cracked! Sourced a new block and that's what I'm now using as my base to rebuild.
Thought as it had been sat on the engine stand all winter I'd just crack on and strip it all down as the cylinders are good but could probably do with a light hone and I wanted to check shells, rings, pistons etc.
All went ok apart from one thing that has stumped me a bit so thought I'd get you lovely folks opinion.
When removing the sub idler gear (i think that's what it's called!) The manual says to install a service bolt. I did this when I stripped the first engine without a problem but on this block the bolt wouldn't go though to screw in as I don't think the idle gears had been lined up properly. I took it off anyway and there is quite a sharp bur on the front and rear gear tooth faces and wondered if being not lined up had caused this.
Now when I rebuild should I just chuck it back in as is, remove the snap rings and realign so I can get a service bolt in, substitute the idler gear off the old unit or swap all the timing gear from the old unit to new? I was thinking if I fiddled with the alignment it may have an affect on the teeth which are probably mated to each other. All the timing gear from the old unit would keep consistency but was going to keep the crankshaft in the new unit as the pistons and all bearings would all be mated to each other (all look fine so wasn't going to change these).
Would swapping all the timing gear from the other unit be overkill and should I just chuck the idler gear back in as it came out?
Now that's a question! Haha
Quick recap! I bought a land cruiser from a fleabay liar who was rather economical with the truth regarding the coolant loss on his pride and joy! Long story short the block was cracked! Sourced a new block and that's what I'm now using as my base to rebuild.
Thought as it had been sat on the engine stand all winter I'd just crack on and strip it all down as the cylinders are good but could probably do with a light hone and I wanted to check shells, rings, pistons etc.
All went ok apart from one thing that has stumped me a bit so thought I'd get you lovely folks opinion.
When removing the sub idler gear (i think that's what it's called!) The manual says to install a service bolt. I did this when I stripped the first engine without a problem but on this block the bolt wouldn't go though to screw in as I don't think the idle gears had been lined up properly. I took it off anyway and there is quite a sharp bur on the front and rear gear tooth faces and wondered if being not lined up had caused this.
Now when I rebuild should I just chuck it back in as is, remove the snap rings and realign so I can get a service bolt in, substitute the idler gear off the old unit or swap all the timing gear from the old unit to new? I was thinking if I fiddled with the alignment it may have an affect on the teeth which are probably mated to each other. All the timing gear from the old unit would keep consistency but was going to keep the crankshaft in the new unit as the pistons and all bearings would all be mated to each other (all look fine so wasn't going to change these).
Would swapping all the timing gear from the other unit be overkill and should I just chuck the idler gear back in as it came out?
Now that's a question! Haha
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Ok, so more work done today. Replacement block completely stripped.I've decided to replace the bearings anyway as I may as well as I'm in there anyway. The manual goes on about different bearings i.e 1,2,3,4 etc. Looking at milners and other sites they just sell "standard" bearings. Does the different numbering make a difference? I assume they would but can't seem to find a site that allows you to choose the different ones. Anyone ordered bearings before? Do I give the number when I order them?
Deglazed the cylinders but nearly took my head off! Bashed the honing tool on the bottom as I was maybe being a bit vigorous! Pulled out honer at full rotation as instructed and the stones and arms flew everywhere! Had cracked the plastic retainer when I bashed the bottom! Luckily I think I managed to get all 4 done enough! Only wanted a light hone anyway!!
Time to start ordering some spares and begin the rebuild!
Deglazed the cylinders but nearly took my head off! Bashed the honing tool on the bottom as I was maybe being a bit vigorous! Pulled out honer at full rotation as instructed and the stones and arms flew everywhere! Had cracked the plastic retainer when I bashed the bottom! Luckily I think I managed to get all 4 done enough! Only wanted a light hone anyway!!
Time to start ordering some spares and begin the rebuild!
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