Coolant loss help please

[frank rabbets]

I should just get a hone=glaze bust done if possible then you might be able to use the original pistons. Ask your engineers advice. A problem I used to get after a rebore was swarf in the oil ways which may be impossible to clean out without everything off the block. A glaze bust is less risky. Again ask his advice on whether he can blank off the oil ways and wash the block down after he has finished. When the bores are cut as in rebore it creates a lot of sand like swarf, or used to on the blocks years ago. He might also check to see if the block is warped or not.

A brave job being carried out.

 

[Jmacd]

Hi Paul. I may have missed something in your thread if i have just ignore me. Have you found the original cause of your coolant loss? If not Might I suggest you find some way to pressure test the water jacket of your block and head before you start to spend money on the engine.

 

[Paulsven]

Hi Paul. I may have missed something in your thread if i have just ignore me. Have you found the original cause of your coolant loss? If not Might I suggest you find some way to pressure test the water jacket of your block and head before you start to spend money on the engine.

No you haven't missed anything. Basically I bought the vehicle knowing there were "some" coolant issues but came across a post from the chap later on describing the actual issues which were apparently massive. Basically I now don't trust the bloke or the vehicle and I want to make sure I am 100% happy with it all. I knew I had some money to spend but having removed the head to check gasket, head etc was ok, I noticed damage on pistons and scoring in cylinders etc so have taken the decision to make it a big project that I can spend money on in dribs and drabs as well as learn as much as I can at the same time. The more I do myself the cheaper things should be unless I make an almighty mess up somewhere!!!

I don't actually need the vehicle driveable at the moment so happy to spend some time on it.

My thinking is that if I take my time and do things right then i should trust my rebuilt engine and if anything goes wrong in future I should be able to fix.

Some people think I'm mad but I reckon the only way to learn is to actually do something.

Not sure if that makes sense or if I am actually mad!

It's actually really enjoyable so far and great there are people on this forum who are willing to help.

 

[BobMurphy]

Paul,

Timing the motor . . . I should sit down and read the Max Ellery manual, or, better still, get hold of the Toyota Workshop Manual before commenting.

But, Check the number of teeth on each of the gears.

Some will be vital to the motor's functions and will therefore be the same as or exactly twice the number on the crankshaft. Others (vacuum Pump??) won't be critical and will therefore be idler gears, the number of teeth defined by the space they have to bridge, not by the rotation of their shafts.

When setting the motor up all the marks must be aligned, but once its turned the idlers will not line up again for many revolutions. The critical ones will be back to their starting positions after one or two crankshaft revolutions.

The diameter and number of teeth on an idler is immaterial, all gears in mesh will turn one tooth at a time. Its the rotation of their shafts that is critical.

Hopefully this is why your marks look odd (but I'd better sit down with the Ellery manual to be sure ).

Bob.

 

[Paulsven]

Thanks Bob. From what I can gather from some forum post researching, on the fuel pump it is the spill control valve that controls fuel to the injectors but what I did notice is that at certain positions the injection pump hits a "pressure point". This I summise is the injection pump on it's pump stroke. If the timing gear is out by 180deg I'm not sure it matters as it is still on a pump stroke but for 2and3 not 1and4 but as the spill control valve controls the injection timing it's kind of irrelevant..... this is a theory only!

The injection pump has been out before I reckon as the end of the shaft was marked. Just wondering if whoever had it out removed the injection gear too but didn't take account of the other marks as a whole.

The more I delve the more I'm convinced the whole engine has been in bits before however this could just be my paranoia with the whole purchasing and post purchasing experience!

I think when it all goes back together I am going to do it exactly by the book!

 

[wobbly]

Have we seen photos of the truck yet?

Interesting stuff.

Pete

 

[Pat]

Paulsven look up (DSL-Toyota 1kzte) On google For all info. Good luck Pat.

 

[Jmacd]

Hi Paul I understand what you mean by making it a big project and understand why your doing it. But think before you pay for any machining I think you need to make sure your block and head are good. You could end up doing work on parts that have cracks (head bolts hydraulicing in the blind holes in the block ect) and only find out after the rebuild.

Also if you look back at your post 85 where the block has being removed you have what looks like coolant loss at the left hand rear of the block. possibly this area needs further investigation?

Just a different view point.

 

[tim falce]

Paul, looking at the last picture in post #96, you need to strip the engine completely and make sure all the oilways , including the crankshaft are thoroughly cleaned out. You'll also have to replace the cooler and check the pump as well.

 

[Paulsven]

OK so I am thinking it could be game over!

Spent some time in the garage today removing some more bits from the block. Spun the block around on the engine stand and something caught my eye where the oil cooler sits.



I missed this when removing the oil cooler due to the orientation of the block. I'm no expert but I reckon that's a cracked block??

Then taking a much closer inspection of cylinder 2 I spotted these which could just be pitting but I'm wondering if these are holes as they are pretty much at the same depth as the potential crack



I reckon that could explain the coolant loss.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[BobMurphy]

Paul,

Its not clear from the Parts Diagram what those three holes in the block are for:

Are they for oil or water (I think its water) ??

What I'm thinking is that the possible crack doesn't lead directly to the bore of No 2 cylinder as there is a void of some sort between them.

The only way to be sure is to finish stripping the motor and then get the block professionally crack tested.

There are coolant channels along the face of the block that line-up with channels in the head - but the head gasket blocks them off. Presumably this is to force coolant past the oil cooler to the back of the block where it can rise into the head and complete the cycle.

That being the case, its possible that a crack in behind the oil cooler wouldn't be critical as there is also coolant in behind it, around the cylinders.

It would be good to see more pictures of the block around that area to check where the water channels go.

Bob.

 

[Pat]

Surely in the UK you would be able to pick up a good second hand engine at a reasonable price.I certainly don't like the look of that crack but it is surprising how some can be fixed.Good luck.Pat

 

[Paulsven]

The holes are for coolant which circulate around the block and also cooler the oil via the oil cooler.

As far as I can tell the 2 "pillars" circled (sort of!) below are there to strengthen the casting and are solid from the edge of the block back to the edge of the cylinders.



This would mean any crack here may go through to the bore itself.

The other issue is where the head bolts locate in relation to the crack. I would imagine that when cranked down there is a chance that they would open the crack rather than close it

The red lines below correspond to where I think the pillars are on the first pic and therefore right through 2 of the head bolt holes.



I reckon it's a non starter and don't really won't to spend cash on testing etc when it could go towards a new block.

Only trouble is I am now a bit weary of buying a new block! I have had some quotes in but obviously all used blocks. What I don't want is to shell out on a replacement block and then find out that the reason it was scrapped was because the block was cracked!

Anyone have any hints and tips/ questions to ask when buying a used block?

Still keen to carry on the project but don't want to be stung again!

 

[Paulsven]

Are there any other vehicles a 1KZ-TE was fitted to that I could search for? I assume a 1KZ-TE block is the same for a manual/auto and even out of a different model?

 

[AndyCook]

The 3rd gen hilux surf imports come with a 1kzte
But I would check the compatibility with gearboxes and Ecu etc


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Beau]

1KZT-E engine is used on Surfs, Hiluxs, Hiaces and Landcruier's. The same 1KZT Block is itendical to the 1KZT-E block All blocks on the engines are the same. The major vary between the models are the sump which are interchangeable anyway.

If I'm honest with you, the most prone plane I see there heads crack are in between the valves and by the look of that head it looks pretty clean. Before going out and sourcing another block and head, it would be a good idea to get them fully tested. You can pick up other engines complete, around £500-£700 but the condition of them can be somewhat questioned as well, unless you get a complete vehicle and know it's running.

 

[wobbly]

Maybe Karl may know where theres one sitting under a cracked head?

 

[Paulsven]

Hey Pete. Is Karl from landcruiserparts? Have sent an email or 2! Keen to proceed with the project........

 

[Pat]

Coolant loss

Hey Pete. Is Karl from landcruiserparts? Have sent an email or 2! Keen to proceed with the project........

In NZ I bought a used 1 Kzte and had it fitted and have a mechanical damage guarantee for 6 months or 5000 ks. You just have to weigh up the options and I have had to do this over the years when contracting.I would expect a warranty on any major purchase. Good luck

 

[BobMurphy]

Hey Pete. Is Karl from landcruiserparts? Have sent an email or 2! Keen to proceed with the project........

Yes - Karl Webster is your man .

Bob.