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Cooling the 1KZ-TE motor:

Hi Bob thanks very much for your email I will read through in detail and possibly get back to you with a few more questions. As mentioned earlier the surf I use is totally modified I pulled off the original body and made a pipe car from it.
The original chassis was bent so a friend gave me a chassis for a KzN185 surf which is the chassis for the 1kzte engine. The mounts were identical and I needed no modification to shift all the parts from the petrol chassis to the diesel chassis including gear box and engine. Concerning the cooling of the petrol engine ( I had my concerns) I modified the radiator and fitted a much bigger radiator. The radiator is actually from a hilux vigo 1kd common rail engine. I also added 2 x auxiliary fans with two seperate manual switches so when climbing I could have as much air cooling. This has been a great help. The car does overheat especially when I am on very steep hills winching up and using the engine to help the winch. However I can control the temp and in no time the engine cools. Google the web site elephantcharge.org to see what we do. With the cars I actually won this years rally with the 3rzfe petrol engine but will be upgrading the car with the diesel before October next year when we have the next rally. Thanks so much for your help will definitely be contacting you again
 
Most of its me not having a clue but with help and advice my 1kzte is a different animal altogether now .
 
I have swapped e-mails with David.

For all you 'Off-Road' enthusiasts, this is what he is trying to cool in Zambia :shock:.


DavidFindlayZambia-Off-RoadLandcruiser_zps9931afe2.jpg




I have given him a few tips on posting pictures so this could get interesting . . . . :cool:.


Bob.
 
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was there a rta involving a truck load of scaffolding? :icon-biggrin:

Hard to believe it started as a surf, very nice truck
 
Hi, Has anyone drilled holes through the head gasket to join the water galleries on the left side of the engine ..... would there be any benefit in doing this
 
Yikes that's going to extremes :shock: If you really think these engines are that delicate why would you use one :? the exhaust is the main restriction i've got a 3" dump/down pipe and exhaust and fitted an intercooler , then turned the fuel up added a K&N air filter and upped the boost on the turbo so my power band is now between 3500 and 4500 revs and in that range on or off road it doesn't feel like the engines being worked hard anyway .
 
Hi, Has anyone drilled holes through the head gasket to join the water galleries on the left side of the engine ..... would there be any benefit in doing this

Cool(er) water from the water pump passes below the head on the left side in order to cool the oil cooler which is in behind the oil filter. It then goes up into the rear of the head and moves forward before diving down the front of the block to exit behind the thermostat. It then moves back up to the water pump.

If the thermostat is open that lower exit is blocked so the water moves from the front of the head to the top of the radiator and then down the matrix to cycle back through the water pump.

If you opened up the head gasket you would bias the flow towards the front of the block, possibly risking overhearing the rear cylinders whilst not cooling the oil as much as intended.

I wouldn't do it.

Bob.
 
Got back from walking the pooches is the forest this morning and thought it was a bit 'chilly', so decided to look at what the head temp was reading on the gauge - twas minus 3.5! I am glad that wasnt the actual coolant temp :), but it made me think I need to put the sensor in the actual coolant flow somehow. Anyone else managed to get the sensor in the flow with no leaks? I tried when I first installed it but the flat wire still wouldnt seal on the rubber hose.
 
Yes, I've done it on 2 trucks now Steve. I smeared a thinish bead of RTV inside the top hose, push hose on and then smear a decent dollop around the outside like a fillet between the rad top pipe and the end of the hose.

Then walk away for an hour or so to let it cure s bit before refilling rad and testing, I've got s pic in the Fiery thread somewhere.
 
Not sure if this has been posted already in this thread, but I've just stumbled across it while looking for something else and thought it might be useful. :icon-biggrin:

Its a link showing how to modify the standard OEM temp gauge to read accurately. Its based on a Surf gauge but people have also done it on an 80 with good results.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/tempgauge.htm
 
I simply drilled and tapped the alloy body where the top hose meets the head, 1/8th NPT, there is enough material to get sufficient thread, copper washer, stud lock and no leaks, sensor is then directly in coolant.

There is another way using the M6 short bolt that holds the diagnostics port onto the same alloy casting, it is possible to run a 5mm drill down through this point, without damaging the thread, just breaking into the coolant, the coolant will then heat the M6 securing bolt where you can secure your sensor wire.

Best to do this with the alloy casting taken off as where you will be drilling is off centre, if you drill too far you will break through the side wall and it's ruined, drill carefully and keep looking inside.

On runs and general kicking about I am seeing 77 deg , have yet to see a temperature that would allow the 84 deg thermostat to open, plan is to change to a 76 deg stat before I take my 90 to Berchtesgarden in summer.

Can't post a pic as not had enough posts yet.

cheers
 
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My sensor is now in the top hose, and I get some 'odd' readings. on start up coolant is say 2 deg. After 2 or 3 mins - turning round or reversing out of the driveway, temp is upto say 11 deg. By the time we hit the main road 1km away, temp could be 17 deg. Suddenly it will rocket up to 70 or so. But this iI suppose is only to be expected as we are now heading into the village on the main road. Once its warmed up, and depending on road conditions, the temp varies between 78 - 97 if a steep hill - once on the flat it falls slowly to late 70's again. This is at this time of year. I have bought some cst10000 silicon oil, and am geeing myself up to try and remove the viscus coupling and change the oil in that......... just not very brave! (read mech savvy!)
 
Hi Steve. been reading this thread with much interest. my 90 has just gone onto the road again after a few years restoration project. as its a working truck and very often towing three tons, im keen to know more on the cooling issues. i have put a sensor and reader off ebay primarily made for air cooled VW's, on to the cylinder head. since going back on to the road and without doing too much heavy work, im seeing readings not going above 94 deg. i have put a 76 deg stat in and put in the 10,000 weight oil in the fan. as the truck was not in use, i left the fan casings draining for a week. only 20ml of oil came out! i swilled the casings out with petrol and then topped up oil with 50ml of 10,000. the fan comes on initially, and dies. but after a little work, soon comes back on. i cant believe after doing this, people are considering electric fan. it seems that when the viscous is working right, they cant be beaten. even with the bonnet down, the draught coming through the gap in the wing/bonnet is massive. far more than i can remember. even though it was three years ago since it was running last! this is most defo worth doing. plenty of write ups on aussie surf forums and a good one on utube also.
 
Thanks, just what I need to hear :) I have the 76 deg stat in (or its supposed to have been fitted by the dodgy repair garage) so its just the fan to go. It doesnt sound like it comes on after start up, there is no 'whoosh' that you hear on other trucks, and I am blowed (no pun intended) if I can ever hear the thing even when its hot! So, once this is done I am going to be much happier!
 
yeah, since ive done the oil, the fan roar on start up is far more noticable than i can remember. got to be worth doing. i was gobsmacked when only 20ml of oil came out. hardly surprising these fans arent working right. the you tube guide is worth a look.

cheers.
 
I will watch and then see if I am brave enough to give it a go!
Cheers
 
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