Cv joint advice

[Chris]

Gaiter them, Frank? Well you know there just might be room. You have from the polished band where the seal sits to the very back of the bell. There is quite a bit of room. But, all that would do I think would keep muck out that MIGHT get in there if the rest of the set up is poor. What it would do when you turned full lock is hard to know. If we had a borse cope, we could look inside one through the top access bolt hole. I'd want a very flat and probably stainless boot strap on there. You could machine a small groove to take the band I would think, but there are two flat areas on the bell to make getting the joint in and out of the housing.

I reckon it might be possible. You could possible gain an advantage by filling the boot with grease so that the steering action actually continually pressed grease back into the joint. I'd pay good money to see it.

 

[warrenpfo]

I do like that idea, any comments on if it would weaken the shaft?

I have also been thinking about why one puts grease in the bell housing as i cant work out what good it would do. Yes run a greasy smear on the internals and maybe a pool of grease on the bottom to keep the bearing happy but that's all it would need in my limited engineering view.

 

[Chris]

Wouldn't weaknen them Warren. From my Dip Engineering days I seem to recall the lecturer telling us something (before we were sent out for being in the pub at lunchtime) that the strength is in the outer most part of a shaft. Rob will tell us. A 6mm hole down the middle? The shaft would actually have to break first to get to the middle of the shaft for the hole to be a factor, by which time ....

 

[stumog]

Just something to think about when you rebuild a LR front axle you dont add any grease to the cv when building it up. When its done you add one shot which is a little thinner then moly grease. So i am not sure weather the one shot they use would be a better idea so that once its spun out of the cv next time you stop it fills up agsin.

Stu

 

[Ben]

Wouldn't weaknen them Warren. From my Dip Engineering days I seem to recall the lecturer telling us something (before we were sent out for being in the pub at lunchtime) that the strength is in the outer most part of a shaft. Rob will tell us. A 6mm hole down the middle? The shaft would actually have to break first to get to the middle of the shaft for the hole to be a factor, by which time ....

Technically they could actually be stronger!

Tube is stronger than solid as it has more surface area!

But I cant really see that a small grease hole down the middle would weaken it that much anyway.

 

[Mblinko]

Couple of dumb questions as I can't find the answers on the net but, are Longfields available in the UK and are they specific to a vehicle? I ask as there doesn't seem to be much reference to vehicle types when google it, they all seem to look the same

 

[hairyguy4]

Couple of dumb questions as I can't find the answers on the net but, are Longfields available in the UK and are they specific to a vehicle? I ask as there doesn't seem to be much reference to vehicle types when google it, they all seem to look the same

Your best bet is to buy them and have them shipped over, now the bloke who was originally making the longfieds has kicked the bucket and I think trail gear has bought the name but isn't building to the same quality, I would go with CVS from rcv personally from here

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yota...ly-birfield-and-axle-set-cvj2474-30t-rcv.html


These are the ones with 30 spline on the inside of the cv as well, usually 24 spline so stronger agaiin

 

[clivehorridge]

These are the ones with 30 spline on the inside of the cv as well, usually 24 spline so stronger agaiin

That means you'd need new 30-spline shafts then, as well...

 

[hairyguy4]

That means you'd need new 30-spline shafts then, as well...

That includes both cv's and in need shafts

 

[Ben]

Your best bet is to buy them and have them shipped over, now the bloke who was originally making the longfieds has kicked the bucket and I think trail gear has bought the name but isn't building to the same quality, I would go with CVS from rcv personally from here

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yota...ly-birfield-and-axle-set-cvj2474-30t-rcv.html


These are the ones with 30 spline on the inside of the cv as well, usually 24 spline so stronger agaiin

Interesting, I didnt know that but I did a quick search and found this:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/1312-trail-gear-announces-acquisition-of-longfield-super-axles/

 

[Chris]

Tina was who I dealt with when I bought mine. It was the shipping that was the killer. They are VERY heavy.

 

[Mblinko]

Yes, I saw 50kg mentioned! Did you have to pay import duty?

 

[Chris]

Sorry, can't remember. They weren't 50Kg though. 50 lbs perhaps. They came in at somewhere around £550 IIRC.

 

[Mblinko]

Ok, cheers

 

[clivehorridge]

I'm not wanting to complicate this at all, but after spending a smallish fortune on Nitro Gear shafts and Birfields, does anyone know if there's any fundamental difference between them and longfields?

I see they are both chromoly products, and presume that they are the 'same' in this and other respects. I haven't gone the extra mile to 30 spline shafts, they are OEM in this respect.

 

[Dave2000]

Just skimmed this thread and someone asked about identifying OE Toyota CV's and did not notice an answer? OE units I have come across had a pink (yeh I know) paint brush dab on them. Both of mine had the marks so I assumed OE and nothing in the history indicate work in this area except striping and cleaning/refitting, one had quite bad wear marks but was not noisy, I changed it for an aftermarket version 'just in case', perhaps Milner's cannot remember? I have stripped a couple of other axles here and come across the same pink 'dab', so whilst I cannot guarantee that is an OE mark it would be a little coincidental as all of the vehicles I have worked on have full service histories with no mention of CV changes.

regards

Dave

 

[Karnicle]

my CV joint was giving in so we just went to the wreckers and popped in a whole new joint was a pretty easy job to do

 

[Mblinko]

Your best bet is to buy them and have them shipped over, now the bloke who was originally making the longfieds has kicked the bucket and I think trail gear has bought the name but isn't building to the same quality, I would go with CVS from rcv personally from here

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yota...ly-birfield-and-axle-set-cvj2474-30t-rcv.html


These are the ones with 30 spline on the inside of the cv as well, usually 24 spline so stronger agaiin

So, I'm thinking of getting 24 spline RCV ones for ABS equipped car, but they don't have the ABS sensor rings. They tell me they can be knocked off the old ones and knocked on the new ones. Is that right?

Also, I've read that Birfields are different lengths and different flanges depending on whether ABS or not. Am I going to face any compatibility issues?

 

[Chris]

Yes, the ASB rings just tap off very easily. I put them back onto the CVs that are in the silver one at present with no issues at all. Soft mallet and tap them back on. Yes, the stub axles are different lengths pre 92 ish where the drive flanges were thinner But the Longfields are suitable for the later vehicles. They just don't have the ABS ring. That doesn't mean they are for pre 92 vehicles. The length isn't actually directly related to the ABS, it's related to the age. I have a 1995 that doesn't have ABS. But it's the thicker flange. Post 92 ABS was an option. Pre 92 it didn't exist.

Did any of that make sense?

 

[clivehorridge]

I know that ABS birfs can be used in non-ABS vehicles, if that bit of useless info is any use.

I didn't know the ABS rings knocked off like that, otherwise I'd have removed them from mine before fitting (first set that was, they're history now!).