Difflock Dash lights

[IRLGW]

Been out testing my Difflocks on my 93 model and the red lights keep flashing on the dash but not staying on. I went underneath the jeep and got my dad to turn the difflock switch. The rear acuator is silent but the front one sounds as if its engaging (or at least something is moving) but yet the red lights keep flashing....

Should the difflock lights stay on or do they flash the whole time difflock is engaged??

 

[Gav Peter]

They flash while they are trying to engage & go solid once they are engaged...

 

[karl webster]

Diff lock lights should go solid when engaged. If you drop back and forth the front should engage properly. The back one will prob need taking off and looking at. Fingers crossed that it will free up.
Karl

 

[Towpack]

If I were you, before trying to remove and strip the rear actuator I'd get the car on stands or jacks so all 4 wheels are off the ground and see if it engages with no load on the diff.

 

[adrianr]

give it a tap with the hammer too that freed mine up initially.

 

[joinerman]

And break the casing !!!!!!!!!

 

[Dave Docwra]

A tap, gently like..

 

[IRLGW]

I get the impression that the front diff is working although the light is not solid. It makes a whirring noise for a few seconds and then stops. I jacked the car up on one side leaving two wheels off the ground and was able to turn the front wheel that was off ground and this also turned the back wheel. When I put the front locker on I couldn't turn the wheel at all so I am assuming that it is working ok. The rear locker 'appears' to be in good nick compared to various photos of knackered ones so may try the gentle tap approach. However, it is not making any noise whatsoever so maybe I should look at electrical supply first. If I take the harness off and turn switch what voltage should I get at the acuator if anyone knows?

Also in failed units is it mainly the metal components that fail or is the actual solenoid?

 

[Towpack]

According to the service manual when you switch 'on' the rear (or front) diff locks you should get battery voltage (12-14v) at the actuator for approx 1 second, then 0.5v or less.
The problem with the actuators, in addition to corrosion of the casing seems to be that they fill with water/mud etc and the innards just fall to bits.
An article here you may find useful:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htm