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EGRs

Glad you sorted it. Perhaps they were faulty.

I had the early type lid without the resonator. Having the egrs connected or not made no difference to the noise which was mostly induction noise and they WERE opening when connected as there was tell tale soot. I quietened the intake noise somewhat in a variety of ways. When Jon bought his 24v I immediately noticed that the intake noise was less than mine and his engine was generally quieter. Jon and I swapped lids to prove the point and my lid drove him mad. So I bought a lid with a resonator from Karl and this made my induction noise less whether the egrs were connected, working, or not. Jon's engine also has insulation on the sump whereas mine does not. Also additional insulation around the injection pump. This is why I think the resonator is part of a general improvement to reduce what was bad induction noise. Egrs working properly don't make a noise.
 
P.S Chris The early 24valves had egrs but no resonator. Mines an early one, 1995. I think Jons is 1997 see?
 
Been watching this with interest Chris.

Glad you have got to the bottom of it and ill get mine properly blanked now.

The early 24v didn't have the later air box top but it is really noisy compared to the later one.
 
Yes thanks for the history lesson lads. This I already knew. But I still want a box lid. Ohhhh Karrlll.....

Sorry but I am going to say it one last time. I just don't see how, based on the fact that yours didn't, that the EGRs opening do not contribute to the extra noise! It's a *&£$** great join between induction and exhaust. What it's like a speed I don't know. But at idle you can hear it above everything. It's very distinctive The whole box resonates. Maybe yours were broken?

Not a problem anymore.
 
Well I can't hear mine and they work perfectly I thought your noise happened suddenly, not intermittently.

Not a problem anymore. :icon-biggrin:.
 
Good grief Frank.

Yes let's move on for pity's sake.

Hopefully going to put that 100 series box in week after next. Let's hope that's OK. Going to France that weekend.
 
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Well you know Frank, it's a bit hit and miss. Somedays (usually warmer weather) the box can be pretty much perfect. I actually forget there is an issue. It's mostly the third to second at junctions and into first at a standstill to pull away. Now, if I push toward first when moving, it will go into second nicely. Then other days, it lets me know every time. Changing up has never been a problem. Seeing as the box is coming out anyway to put a new clutch in, then it makes sense to change the box I guess. it's a bit of a gamble as I go to France later that week. You guys had a look at it and thought it looked OK. I could leave it alone and go with the known box and it would be fine I know. I'm OK with it but it could catch the missus out and at some French road junction, I could do without the surprise.
 
Ah that makes sense to risk changing the box if the old one is out anyway. Sounds like you have a pretty standard performance (early ?) 80 box.

Andy's box looked like brand new inside but now makes a rumbling noise so there is something unknown wrong with it.

I've done 3500 miles on 2 boxes I've had apart and there are no problems. In fact on my original box all I did was lap the 2nd and 3rd synchro rings in and now the gear change on that one is better now it's done a few miles.

Re egrs I think you might have made a discovery. I now remember when I took mine for 1st MOT in 1999 the tester revved the dogs off it and the engine made a rattling noise which would not go away. It failed the test and he told me to drive it a few miles to clear the carbon. He looked a bit worried as I drove off with this noise. It sounded mechanical,,, like someone hitting a empty muffled beer can but rapidly. Then all of a sudden nothing and the car drove livelier. I bet that was a stuck egr. Back to the garage and almost zero emissions.

You do realise that most of the time the egrs are closed.
 
Well the box isn't technically coming out. I just don't have any time left to do this, so I went round the corner to the clutch place and had a word. They are all set up and have done an 80 before. They convinced me they knew what they were doing and even knew about the starter motor stud. They said £200 to swap the clutch if I provided the parts. Milner do Valeo for £200 with both bearings. I figured that my time was worth more then £200. They were going to just slide it back basically, on jacks. I asked if they could swap the box and they said, sure. No problem. They had a look underneath and said it looked fine, no issues. So it goes in a week on Monday

On the EGR actuation, it's intersting that inside they are like a cylinder valve. There's a stem, a bellow type lifter and a seat. But there is no guide that ensures the valve sits back in the seat. I opened them by hand and on several occasions managed to get them to jam. It relies on a perfect release for them to close. I can certainly see scope here for them to not be shut properly and once that happens.... Now I saw no evidence at all they they were not shutting correctly but the beer can noise does sound about right. Mine's a 95. I made plates out of some aluminium which is very easy as you have plenty to draw around and then put the original gaskets back in. Surprised but they didn't leak at all even with no sealant.
 
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Which weekend are you planning to do the g/box Chris? If you are planning to use the facilities at the LLC I could do with knowing to plan.

Andy
 
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Errr, did you read the thread Andy?

I went round the corner to the clutch place and had a word. They are all set up and have done an 80 before. They convinced me they knew what they were doing and even knew about the starter motor stud. They said £200 to swap the clutch if I provided the parts. Whole point is that I don't have time to do this so I am paying someone.
 
Crikey £200 is OK. It's a bit of a nightmare doing it by yourself even with a smooth concrete floor.
 
Which I don't have Frank. I have hardcore in places patched together with some Tarmac. Mr L from Laughton Landcruisers was very kindly going to assist, but it's time I am short of. Probably be a bit more then £200 by the time they have split the box for me, but hey, all in £500 would still be good value for a clutch change. So any less than that is a bargain in my eyes. It buys peace of mind too of course.
 
That's what I meant Chris. I struggle with mine even with a smooth concrete floor. I wouldn't attempt it on a drive. Anyway I really hope that swop box will be OK. Remind them to put all the oil in lol. It can take time to drain through the middle plate giving you the impression it's full.
 
No, I won't forget the oil Frank.

I did Lil Blue's clutch on the drive and that was enough. There was some Tarmac still back then.
 
The timing is altered on the pump when the stat in the diesel pump is cold (IIRC retarded to aid starting), can happen overnight, took mine off but this is on a 12v motor.

regards

Dave
 
Right, fine evening so off to the workshop to sort this once and for all.

Started with a lump of alloy. Chucked it in the lathe.

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Turned a boss to 32mm to fit down the EGR 'ole.

P1010566.JPG

Drilled the bolt holes (pilots)

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and with a bit of shaping later .....

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Now try as I might I could not get the top stud out. I was in danger of snapping it off. It would move a bit but even back and forth it just locked solid again. Do I drove it back in, cleaned up the thread and used it with a new stud in the lower hole.

Fitted, done.

P1010569.JPG


Perfect.
 
You see Chris, if you'd chucked the lathe in the overland toolkit, you could have done a proper job roadside :lol:

Nice work, let's hope the top stud holds. Surely there's no real pressure there, just gas-flow I presume :think:
 
Clive, I under estimated the pressure. There is quite a bit. It actually bent the plate. I ran it today with no plate on to blast out any bits that had dropped in and when I revved it, it was deafening and a hell of a blast. It's not just a little gas being siphoned off. That is why I shaped the new plate to actually plug the hole and cap it off. I used the original gasket but have scope to put exhaust cement in there if I need to. All running smooth again now.
 
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