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Engine Jobs

Stoddart2000

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Hello, got a few big bits coming up that i am going to do.
Well big for myself will be first timing belt i have done on my own.
100 series Amazon 2005 1HD-FTE engine.
I have just been getting all the bits together ready.
so far ive got
Full service kit
Timing belt kit
Waterpump
Thermostat
New rad hoses and clips
Red coolant
Trying to source a new rad
new belts alternator and aircon
bits for diff oil change front and rear

Is there anything else anyone would recommend taking a look at while the above is been carried out?

Cheers
 

SteveJB

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Roughtrax for radiator unless you are going for custom made what area you in and go for recommendations from members
 

uHu

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#1 priority: Make sure the timing belt kit includes tensioner and idler. The belt often lasts longer than those two pieces.

Not directly related, but why not remove the egr while you have the hood open. And make sure the heating grid on the intake is disconnected - it makes batteries and alternator last longer.
 

Stoddart2000

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I have been keeping an eye on the radiator rough track sell for the 100 but it has been out of stock for a while now.
I will have to keep checking hopefully will get chance to order before I start the work.
I’m North East UK for any recommendations.

Thanks for info on timing belt and EGR, I have went for the genuine kit so included idler and tensioner.
I had not though about the EGR though this is something I will look into more. Thank you
 
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Spike

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Hi, there is a company near me in Bedford called Kempston Radiators, they are a long way from you but might offer a delivery service if they have one, if not I would be happy to pick one up and send it up to you, they also offer a re core service, I had my old G wagon radiator done by the, very good company 01234 852073
 

Stoddart2000

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Hello Spike, thank you very much for this offer. I will give the company a look up and message and hopefully they may be able to help and provide delivery.
 
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AndycruiserguyLomas

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I've found Lincoln Radiators very accommodating with custom bits, had at least 3 cruiser radiators over the years as well as truck rads and the like. They made Chris on here an 80 radiator with an extra thick core on request before one of his trips to the desert.
Not local but a lot nearer the NE.
 

wedgetail

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I’d be doing the valve clearances, but if you’re nervous about the belt maybe you might think about farming that one out. Not that they’re hard, but the belt is much easier.

Sounds like you’re doing a bit of a “benchmark” service… in which case they and eye ball all your exhaust manifold studs are present, and check inlet manifold nuts for tension. Even better than disconnecting the heater is to remove it.

Change the brake fluid, dot 3 only - often over looked and you want to treat that expensive master cylinder as well as you can… might as well change the clutch fluid and PS fluid too I guess. Personally I’d think about the fan hub fluid too.

Not sure where his custom radiator stuff comes from - genuine is as good as is gets. Here where we see 40*C+ for days on end in the summer and HDJ100s with standard rads never suffer - a genuine rad is more than enough. Hundreds of people (me being one) have put FTEs on their 105 and used the smaller rad with no overheating. A couple of years ago when moving house my wife was towing a large Bogie axle trailer very heavily loaded, the car heavily loaded, and saw 54*C on the ambient temp thermometer (obviously it was picking up the heat of the road, but ambient was till late 40s). I know several people who’s very new bog stock cars over heated that day, our FTE with stock 105 rad never did and she was watching the gauge (which works) like a hawk. It was one mother of a hot day, and proves to me how cool FTEs run. In short, if you can afford it, get a genuine radiator
 

Stoddart2000

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Hello thank you for all your replies.
wedgetail really helpful post, i have done the valve clearances before on a Peugeot 206, this was the same car i helped out with the timing belt and bits so this is something i will put on the to do list and get some research done, same with the EGR valve, i have just found a video of one getting done on a 100 series and it was pretty desperate to be done.
Really appreciate your comments and i will take onboard.
Just looking forward to getting started on all the jobs, i work away overseas and i am due off shortly so should be able to get plenty done.
 

wedgetail

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No worries. Yes there’s no doubt sorting the EGR out is of major benefit. To get the most out of the engine it’s really best to remove the intake manifold and thoroughly clean it and the pipe work out - it’ll be major congested with a solid build up of soot/oil paste. You need to remove the one injector lines amongst other things but it’ll give you a good chance to get all the manifold bolts tight. If you’re feeling generous a new genuine gasket (don’t forget the stud gaskets) would help as if it’s got any miles on it it’ll probably be weeping a little. Watch out when cleaning - it’s as black as it gets and I’d imagine pretty nasty stuff (as in carcinogenic).

I’ve never worked in a Peugeot but FTE valves are slightly different than some due to the bridges for dual valves. And you have to be careful to brace the bridge when undoing/doing the lock nut up so you don’t stress it and dislodge a collet. And when you’re finished get a torch and have a REALLY good look at every single valve collet to check it hasn’t been unseated - 99.9% of dropped valves in FTEs are due to dislodging valve collets during head work.
 

Stoddart2000

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So I’ve had a pretty busy week.
What an amazing car the 100 series is to work on.
This is my first proper 4x4 and it’s brilliant how I can raise the suspension to high while working underneath.
So far I’ve done the big service oil and filters etc.
Only think I’ve missed is cabin filter I need to check about this if it has one and get one ordered.

Done the big jobs it just so happened the alternator failed so sort of sped up me doing it.
Cam belt, tensioner and idler pulley
Water pump cam seal and thermostat
New alternator and radiator hoses.
All new belts.
I was on a deadline from dropping kids of at school at 9 to having it back on the road by 3 and I just managed it.
I had tools everywhere I’m sure the mechanics will be disgusted at me lol.
First belt I’ve done on my own so was pretty happy turning the key and all was good.

Got the rear diff oil done and new plugs and washers, the fill plug was solid had to end up drilling and using an easy out with loads of heat, I have a feeling this had not been done for a long time, breather was rusted solid as well so popped a new breather on.

Transfer case was pretty good oil changed and new plugs and washers.

Got all the covers off from underneath they were solid had 2 snapped bolts, managed to get one out with heat and other had to drill and tap, I’ve re tapped all the holes and got some new bolts and washers.
Going to spend a bit of time cleaning up and painting the front bash guard.

Front diff oil done and new plugs and washers. These looked like they were going to cause trouble but once cleaned up they broke free with a bit of persuasion.

Pretty happy so far and feel a lot better knowing there all done.

I’ve just got the gearbox oil change to tackle but might have to wait till more funds available.

As mentioned above about valve clearances, I would like to have this on my to do list but might try get some assistance with this.

Roughtrax is brilliant makes it so easy for maintenance bits.

Got a few other little niggles to sort, one of the spotlights was in a bad way and back was missing so I’ve ordered a new pair.

Got the headlight washers to look at and get working and figure out how to fit the retaining clips, there just wobbling about at the min.

Getting there with a flashing seat belt light works every few try’s now.

I’m struggling with the rear screens and DVD player in the boot area, I may have to post a separate thread to try get some help with this.

Hoping to get the alloys done in April and fit some geolander GO15’s

Currently getting prices for a few bits of paintwork doing, think I’m going to go for a new upper tailgate and window seal so I know it’s good.
 

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Stoddart2000

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Forgot to say my main worry was that the belt had not been done, but on removing the cover I could see it has and fairly recent I would say, it looked in really good condition.
I had the new parts so have fitted them.
If this is any use to anyone I have the belt tensioner and idler pulley and water pump
Would be happy for someone to have these collection or cover postage costs if it will help anyone out.
I’m going to keep the aux belts as spares.
 
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