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Fault code p1228 fuel pump range. What to do??

Omar LC5 120

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Only just bought my LC 120. 2003. Thought it would be a problem free car. But noticed when I drove it on the motorway the engine light came on after about 8miles of driving, light would turn off but would come up again on the way home, again after about 8 miles.
AA came and checked, they said it's injectors. Took it to a diesel specialist, they've said it's fuel pump related. P1228 fuel pump range

So this is a Bosch garage and his logged in the fault with Bosch technicians. Some have replied that it's the red green valves. I would probably think it too, theres no start issue or rough idling, just engine light and possible lack of power.
Cause I have AA brc, I'm wanting to make sure it's covered the right bit. Is it worth me putting in a reconditioned Lucas pump from Europarts or stick in the red green valves.
Fuel pressure engine light pressure control valves pump

Also would like to add that I've spoken to Toyota UK about this issue. Of the red green valves. They responded by saying very carefully that this is NOT a known or common or recall fault, but ' room for improvement from Toyota' so basically saying it's a known issue.
Also these valves cannot be bought separately from Toyota. Toyota only sell the whole pump unit, £1700+
So where is the best place to pick them up from?
 
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Hi , the valves are called SCV (suction control valves) and can be got from Rough Trax 4x4 .com for £198 and are genuine parts , make sure you dont order the the later model version which is a one piece scv (silver) you need the red and green version , you can get them on ebay cheaper but they could be Chinese copys as they dont state they are genuine parts .
 

Omar LC5 120

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Hi , the valves are called SCV (suction control valves) and can be got from Rough Trax 4x4 .com for £198 and are genuine parts , make sure you dont order the the later model version which is a one piece scv (silver) you need the red and green version , you can get them on ebay cheaper but they could be Chinese copys as they dont state they are genuine parts .


Thank you for the reply the garage I'm using has ordered them for nearly £350. Which I told him were way too expensive. But garage will always say that they only get parts from their supplier and don't trust other places.

But do you think the valves is my issue. Or is it a guess
 
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Thank you for the reply the garage I'm using has ordered them for nearly £350. Which I told him were way too expensive. But garage will always say that they only get parts from their supplier and don't trust other places.

But do you think the valves is my issue. Or is it a guess
Engine stalling haphazardly is a common symptom of faulty scv , had it been my truck I would have changed the fuel filter in the engine bay first and then if the problem was still there after that I would look at changing the scv valves , £198 including VAT and delivery is a lot cheaper than £350 , fitting is quite easy only thing to make sure of is complete cleanliness during removal and fitting of the SCVs , avoid any dirt or dust getting into the injection pump or on the SCVs, clean the area around the SCVs before you start to remove the old SCVs I am sure any competent mechanic who is used to working on common-rail diesel cars or trucks can remove and fit them in under a hour if you dont want to do it your self , there are youtube tutorials (something I always do myself is watch it done on youtube on any jobs on the car that I have never done before ) you can watch before doing the job yourself .
 

Omar LC5 120

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Engine stalling haphazardly is a common symptom of faulty scv , had it been my truck I would have changed the fuel filter in the engine bay first and then if the problem was still there after that I would look at changing the scv valves , £198 including VAT and delivery is a lot cheaper than £350 , fitting is quite easy only thing to make sure of is complete cleanliness during removal and fitting of the SCVs , avoid any dirt or dust getting into the injection pump or on the SCVs, clean the area around the SCVs before you start to remove the old SCVs I am sure any competent mechanic who is used to working on common-rail diesel cars or trucks can remove and fit them in under a hour if you dont want to do it your self , there are youtube tutorials (something I always do myself is watch it done on youtube on any jobs on the car that I have never done before ) you can watch before doing the job yourself .


Yh this I did. I got the fuel filter change. But a fault still showed.
Cause I had the AA cover I thought I'd be fine. But the garage is putting his bit in, which I'm little annoyed about considering the job itself.
The YouTube vids are a doddle of a job. Not much to it.
 

Omar LC5 120

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So I've had the suction control valves changed. On the way to work it drove so smoothly. But on the way back I had the same engine light come on. And it not there when I turn the car off and then on.
AA recovery guy says that sometimes it's just dirty fuel or air etc. And you could drive it for years and never have an issue.
But I plan a trip up west Yorkshire to see my in laws soon. And I really can't risk having my wife and kids with me stranded, if it breaks down.

Really love the land cruiser. But starting to regret picking it up now. Hmm
 
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So I've had the suction control valves changed. On the way to work it drove so smoothly. But on the way back I had the same engine light come on. And it not there when I turn the car off and then on.
AA recovery guy says that sometimes it's just dirty fuel or air etc. And you could drive it for years and never have an issue.
But I plan a trip up west Yorkshire to see my in laws soon. And I really can't risk having my wife and kids with me stranded, if it breaks down.

Really love the land cruiser. But starting to regret picking it up now. Hmm
I hope your mechanic did not let any dirt enter the injection pump during the scv changeover , the smallest amount of dirt will make a injection pump/scv play up, and I hope your engine settles down soonest .
 

Omar LC5 120

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I hope your mechanic did not let any dirt enter the injection pump during the scv changeover , the smallest amount of dirt will make a injection pump/scv play up, and I hope your engine settles down soonest .


I spoke to the garage. Seems a little half hearted about it now. But he said drive it for a few days and then they'd check the fuel filter if anything shows up in there.

Annoyed as they had the car for near 2 weeks and they could have done more checks other than live data .
 
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I spoke to the garage. Seems a little half hearted about it now. But he said drive it for a few days and then they'd check the fuel filter if anything shows up in there.

Annoyed as they had the car for near 2 weeks and they could have done more checks other than live data .
I agree , I bet you wished you did the job yourself now .
 

Omar LC5 120

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Do you think a turbo issue could cause a fuel pump issue ?
I know that I get the whine or howl in my turbo, but it's not felt like it's problematic. I've read some people have had turbo howling and whine and have never changed it. Just embraced it
 
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Do you think a turbo issue could cause a fuel pump issue ?
I know that I get the whine or howl in my turbo, but it's not felt like it's problematic. I've read some people have had turbo howling and whine and have never changed it. Just embraced it
In all 1kd engines you can hear the turbo whistle or howl on acceleration if its variable vanes are not jammed shut but it should not be too loud , if you have that turbo pressure problem with the variable vanes jammed or steppy motor not working you will likely get a p1251 code .
 
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Omar LC5 120

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In all 1kd engines you can hear the turbo whistle or howl on acceleration if its variable vanes are not jammed shut but it should not be too loud , if you have that turbo pressure problem with the variable vanes jammed or steppy motor not working you will likely get a p1251 code .

After the scv change. The car does drive alot better. On the motorway there's no limp mode, engine light comes on after 70mph run, so it comes on when on load. But car drives fine.
Going to get the fuel filter checked but seems something so minor that triggers it.
Would a lambda sensor set this off, cause it is linked with fuel etc. But I'm sure that would come up with a different code.
P1228 is more towards fuel pump??
 
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After the scv change. The car does drive alot better. On the motorway there's no limp mode, engine light comes on after 70mph run, so it comes on when on load. But car drives fine.
Going to get the fuel filter checked but seems something so minor that triggers it.
Would a lambda sensor set this off, cause it is linked with fuel etc. But I'm sure that would come up with a different code.
P1228 is more towards fuel pump??
There is no lambda sensor that I know of on this engine , at least its not going into limpmode , if the engine light goes off on its own tells you its nothing that broken , have you checked its the same code as before and not a different code . check all connectors on fuel pump and filter are on tight and properly , the fuel filter is an quick job to change , when I change mine I put a empty round plastic tin of cadburys roses or heroes in the engine gap near the filter , undo the two electric connectors, and make note where the angle of the drain tap is in relation to the filter housing, leave the fuel pipes connected no need to undo and no risk of contamination , undo the two 12mm nuts the hold the filter housing pumping bleeder , unscrew by hand the filter and let it drain in to the empty cadburys container and rest the filter housing/fuelpump bleeder on the container so it can carry on dripping in to the container with the fuel pipes connected it will hold its self in place nicely , take the filter and undo the water trap bracket and remove the water trap valve/tap ,make sure filter housing is clean where the filter screws on ,put some clean fuel with your finger on the filter o ring before you fit new filter to the filter housing hand tight , put some clean fuel on the o ring when fitting water trap to lubricate the o ring and fit the watertrap/tap in the right angle so it ends up in the right place hand tight , connect the two 12mm nuts connect the connectors and pump button the on top of the housing until the pressure feels firm then start the engine , you will get the job done quicker than I wrote this reply .
 

Omar LC5 120

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There is no lambda sensor that I know of on this engine , at least its not going into limpmode , if the engine light goes off on its own tells you its nothing that broken , have you checked its the same code as before and not a different code . check all connectors on fuel pump and filter are on tight and properly , the fuel filter is an quick job to change , when I change mine I put a empty round plastic tin of cadburys roses or heroes in the engine gap near the filter , undo the two electric connectors, and make note where the angle of the drain tap is in relation to the filter housing, leave the fuel pipes connected no need to undo and no risk of contamination , undo the two 12mm nuts the hold the filter housing pumping bleeder , unscrew by hand the filter and let it drain in to the empty cadburys container and rest the filter housing/fuelpump bleeder on the container so it can carry on dripping in to the container with the fuel pipes connected it will hold its self in place nicely , take the filter and undo the water trap bracket and remove the water trap valve/tap ,make sure filter housing is clean where the filter screws on ,put some clean fuel with your finger on the filter o ring before you fit new filter to the filter housing hand tight , put some clean fuel on the o ring when fitting water trap to lubricate the o ring and fit the watertrap/tap in the right angle so it ends up in the right place hand tight , connect the two 12mm nuts connect the connectors and pump button the on top of the housing until the pressure feels firm then start the engine , you will get the job done quicker than I wrote this reply .

I've seen lambda sensor for the land cruisers online. Anyway if it were that, they would throw a whole different code.
Currently I had it checked. The fuel and fuel line is clean, injectors, pump etc.
The car drives fine around town and motorway. Until it's under load I think, so once I've put my foot down and driven at 70 or little over for a while, then light comes on but after the scv valves have been changed. There is no limp mode, still enough power. And then same thing, light turns off when I restart car.
I got the gear oil changed at Toyota, as they proved me £120 with parts. So I thought maybe worth seeing if they'll give me a full check on car too.
Which they did. Fault came as fuel pump malfunction, with diesel specialist and AA it comes as fuel metering unit deviation.
They also picked up on anti roll bars will need changing soon.
So I'm not finding issue with performance or starting issues etc. So I'm thinking to save time and money. To leave it and wait till something starts to actually show. hopefully never.
Annoying that now that I really like the car, it has this issue.
I've heard alot of people saying they've had cars do this engine management light thing for years and never having a issue.
 
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I've seen lambda sensor for the land cruisers online. Anyway if it were that, they would throw a whole different code.
Currently I had it checked. The fuel and fuel line is clean, injectors, pump etc.
The car drives fine around town and motorway. Until it's under load I think, so once I've put my foot down and driven at 70 or little over for a while, then light comes on but after the scv valves have been changed. There is no limp mode, still enough power. And then same thing, light turns off when I restart car.
I got the gear oil changed at Toyota, as they proved me £120 with parts. So I thought maybe worth seeing if they'll give me a full check on car too.
Which they did. Fault came as fuel pump malfunction, with diesel specialist and AA it comes as fuel metering unit deviation.
They also picked up on anti roll bars will need changing soon.
So I'm not finding issue with performance or starting issues etc. So I'm thinking to save time and money. To leave it and wait till something starts to actually show. hopefully never.
Annoying that now that I really like the car, it has this issue.
I've heard alot of people saying they've had cars do this engine management light thing for years and never having a issue.
A lot engine light issues are emission equipment related so wont effect driverbility of the car , when I first got my 120 the first thing I did was disable the egr valve by blocking the vacuum pipe that goes to the egr valve untill I got a ozbush fuel mapper that disables it at the ecu so I could put a egr blanking plate at the engine with no codes or engine lights , anyway every fifty miles of driving (I used to reset the code with a scanner ) I would get a engine light and trc/vsc light come up and a p0400 code but the driverbility of the engine was much better even with the engine lights on , lambda sensors for landcruisers I think are for petrol engine ones . when they say anti roll bars they should have told you its the droplinks or the anti roll bar bushes a lot less expense and easy to do at home if they do indeed really need changing , that need changing soon and not the anti roll bars themselves unless the truck has been in a bad bash , seems to me the dealers are a bit naughty .
 
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Omar LC5 120

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A lot engine light issues are emission equipment related so wont effect driverbility of the car , when I first got my 120 the first thing I did was disable the egr valve by blocking the vacuum pipe that goes to the egr valve untill I got a ozbush fuel mapper that disables it at the ecu so I could put a egr blanking plate at the engine with no codes or engine lights , anyway every fifty miles of driving (I used to reset the code with a scanner ) I would get a engine light and trc/vsc light come up and a p0400 code but the driverbility of the engine was much better even with the engine lights on , lambda sensors for landcruisers I think are for petrol engine ones . when they say anti roll bars they should have told you its the droplinks or the anti roll bar bushes a lot less expense and easy to do at home if they do indeed really need changing , that need changing soon and not the anti roll bars themselves unless the truck has been in a bad bash , seems to me the dealers are a bit naughty .

So have you sorted out your car issue now.
I've had people ask about the ECU egr.
 
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A lot engine light issues are emission equipment related so wont effect driverbility of the car , when I first got my 120 the first thing I did was disable the egr valve by blocking the vacuum pipe that goes to the egr valve untill I got a ozbush fuel mapper that disables it at the ecu so I could put a egr blanking plate at the engine , anyway fifty miles of driving I would get a engine light and trc/vsc light come up but the driverbility of the engine was much better even with the engine lights on , lambda sensors for landcruisers I think are for petrol engine ones .
So have you sorted out your car issue now.
I've had people ask about the ECU egr.
There was nothing wrong with my egr valve I just did not want it to work on my engine as its job is to allow the exhaust to go back unfiltered back in your engine to lower supposedly emissions , and it clogs up to intake with carbon sludge as it mixes with the pcv gas/oil mix and chokes up the engine I want just pure cool filtered oxygen going into my engine , so I stopped the egr valve altogether and vented the pcv gas/oil to air via a oil catch can , the result is once cleaned the intake will stay cleaned and a longer engine life and more power and torque , I stopped the egr valve instantly by blocking the vacuum hose to the egr valve (I was getting engine light lighting up about every 50 miles but engine was running smoother ,I just cleared it with a scanner ) until I got my Ozbush fuel mapper delivered (cost about £100 depending on Australia rates ) and then I put a full blanking plate at the engine side so no more exhaust can come in the egr valve so that I could unblock the vacuum hose to that the egr valve can open and shut normally so I dont get engine light on the dash , the mapper is adjustable for more power but I leave it on standed setting as I get more power with just cool oxygen going in to the engine with out exhaust . I use a K&N air filter as well . you can fit a blanking plate with a 7mm hole in the middle and cut egr exhaust by 80 percent with out getting engine light with out the need of a ozbush mapper but I wanted to cut the egr exhaust out by 100 percent .
 
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Omar LC5 120

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There was nothing wrong with my egr valve I just did not want it to work on my engine as its job is to allow the exhaust to go back unfiltered back in your engine to lower supposedly emissions , and it clogs up to intake with carbon sludge as it mixes with the pcv gas/oil mix and chokes up the engine I want just pure cool filtered oxygen going into my engine , so I stopped the egr valve altogether and vented the pcv gas/oil to air via a oil catch can , the result is once cleaned the intake will stay cleaned and a longer engine life and more power and torque , I stopped the egr valve instantly by blocking the vacuum hose to the egr valve (I was getting engine light lighting up about every 50 miles but engine was running smoother ,I just cleared it with a scanner ) until I got my Ozbush fuel mapper delivered (cost about £100 depending on Australia rates ) and then I put a full blanking plate at the engine side so no more exhaust can come in the egr valve so that I could unblock the vacuum hose to that the egr valve can open and shut normally so I dont get engine light on the dash , the mapper is adjustable for more power but I leave it on standed setting as I get more power with just cool oxygen going in to the engine with out exhaust . I use a K&N air filter as well . you can fit a blanking plate with a 7mm hole in the middle and cut egr exhaust by 80 percent with out getting engine light with out the need of a ozbush mapper but I wanted to cut the egr exhaust out by 100 percent .

That's pretty detailed. Nice when you have the know how and do it yourself. No one will ever do a good job better than a person working on his own car, house etc.
 
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That's pretty detailed. Nice when you have the know how and do it yourself. No one will ever do a good job better than a person working on his own car, house etc.
very true , you know the job has been done right and not skimped if you do it yourself aswell save lots of money as most jobs on house , cars etc are mainly labour costs ,
 
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