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Front Axle


Well-Known Member
Sep 9, 2012
Well busy old afternoon, managed to strip the front axle down and dropped the diff in prep for some further work
But have a question, any tips on splitting the CV Joints?
I only split the plunge joint, which I think is the inner one but I didn't make any notes or take any pictures because it was incidental to doing the diff and it seems like a long time ago now! The boots were weeping and the grease was like pea soup so I replaced it with normal CV grease. I've got a couple of OEM re-boot kits since then from Ian which come with grease but the pot of molly seems to have been just fine. I used ordinary aftermarket CV boot clamps rather than OEM just because it seems a simpler process. Next time they're off I think I'll re-boot them.

Has your ARB arrived then?
Yep my grease was in a pretty bad state, I was thinking about Moly grease, but wondered why nobody uses marine waterproof grease.
The ARB should be delivered this week, Bearings and shim kit are in transit form JT
Not sure what to do with clamps, I had wondered about just using big zip ties
What was the issue with the OEM clamps?
Should I contact Ian about the boot kits?
I'm not a grease expert, I just know moly for CV's, LM for normal bearings :) Is marine waterproof grease rated for high load applications like CV's?

Unless you know the boots were done in the recent past I would change them if you can, especially as you go overlanding but I would keep your old ones for emergencies. A split boot in a dusty environment will soon cause major problems for the CV joint. I don't think you'll get enough pressure with a zip tie! You can get CV boot clamps and a tool for clamping them at decent auto parts stores or on ebay and I carry the tool and spare clamps as part of my spares kit. The OEM clamps need an SST and I've never taken the time to see if that SST can easily be replicated and buying one might be a bit expensive.

If you speak to Ian, the complete kits are part no. 04427-60120 which gets you two boots, two tubes of grease and 4 OEM clamps, so you need one kit for each side. If he doesn't have any but will be doing an order in the not too distant future then he can sell you mine and replace them later if that helps.
Marine grease is formulated for conditions where it will come into to contact with the nasty stuff, where cv's are sealed then there is no need. Its the same with prop shaft and sliding joints, if you keep them greased enough they are a natural barrier to the wet stuff, but little and often is the key. I work with some machines that are always in sea water so need it then.
Jon, thanks for the offer on the boots, I will contact Ian
You might laugh but a zip tie got me all the way home from Africa and didn't leak at all
I didn't realize the OEM clamps need an SST, I better look at some alternatives pronto
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Just a bit of a follow up to this post
Managed to get everything back together and completed a bit of a shake down at the Plain
Thought I would update with a few pics of what we did

Front Diff, ARB Installed. Thanks Mr Wildsmith. Went with a solid spacer to make it as strong as possible and a Slee Diff Drop bar

New Upper Control Arms, These are from Just Differentials in the States and the major advantage is the ball joint is smaller and gives more suspension travel than the stock arms

Completed Front Install, 6.5" travel Fox Shocks with Remote Cans and 9 click compression adjusters, Pin to stud convertors and Limiting straps to limit down travel to protect the CV joints

Pic of the rear install, Custom 10" travel Fox shocks again with remote cans and compression adjusters

So far the damping is a massive improvement over the OME dampers I had on before
Looking good Julian. Did you get it on your mates forklift to see how it does?
Jon, should be doing it tomorrow, must remember to take a tape measure with me
That looks like an awesome setup!
I have a couple of questions, hope you don't mind:

1. Did you import those shocks from the US or were you able to find them locally?
2. Do you find the compression adjuster handy?
3. Also does having the compression adjuster on the reservoir allow you to run a softer spring and run more compression damping for road use and then ease it off for off road use, and allow you to flex out a bit more?
4. What it about your current setup makes it feel better than the OME?
5. How did it end up flexing with the forklift, any pics?

I got the dampers from Milners off road racing department, in this country. I had been looking at getting them form Australia, but had a conversation with Milners and decided it would be better to have some back up from the local fox agents
The compression dampers are kind of set and forget items, they do help with mating dampers to spring rates, and yes you can stiffen the car up for road use and back them off for off road use, if I remember the damping is set to something like 80-60 in fox measurements, the adjusters are on the 60 side and can give an equivelent of 80-100 when fully adjusted. I am currently a bit over sprung at the back end and have been toying with getting some slinky rear springs from JulianV, also after a bit of experimentation on the fork lift I do have a couple of issues to iron out, I need longer break lines and the rear springs get very close to dislocating, JulianV also talked about doing a mod to the ARB links to let the axles flex more.
The quality of control in both compression and rebound is much better than OME, I tend to drive the truck like a bit of an arse and I had some pretty dire damper fade from overheating dampers, BUT you do ending up paying pretty handsomely for the performance increase. The other major benefit for the 100 series is that I have got more travel out of the IFS system, it allows a longer down stroke for the same lift height.
I didn't manage to get any pics on the fork lift, but will have another go when I have the break lines sorted out