Front brake service - spares needed?

[Doodle]

Going to be replacing the front discs and pads shortly, but want to get any extra bits I'll need ordered up ready.

From what I can see, I'll need a pair of lock washers and probably a pair of hub cap gaskets too. The outer bearing is accessible for repacking but the inner needs the oil seal removing, so a pair of those too if the inner bearing needs redoing?

 

[warrenpfo]

If you not replacing the inner and outer bearings then you will need a nice long drift to knock out the inner races of each. Be careful not to damage them, ie let the drift slip and mar the inner surface. whilst you at it take a look at the brake caliper boots and if worn then you might want to replace then and so will need the kit and some red rubber grease. If you dont have any worn boots you hopefully wont have any sticking or corroded caliper pots that need replacing.

There is also an outer oil/water seal that the dust shield bolts hold on and if worn should be replaced as you have to take the disk off to do the job.

That aside I think you have all you will need. A 54mm socket and come C-clip pliers are invaluable along with a fishing scale to set the torque unless you going to do this by hand.

 

[Doodle]

The calipers are fine, Julian V fettled them a couple of months back as part of the inspection. Hub nut socket and selection of drifts are in the toolbox.

Surely you mean if I *am* replacing the bearings? They were given the ok at the inspection, I presume they'll just need repacking.

 

[warrenpfo]

No

If you are not replacing bearings you are going to have to tap out the internal races out the old brake disc and knock them back into the new brake disc. If you where where replacing the bearings then you would just have to knock the new outer races into the new discs and so half the chance of making a mistake....hope that makes sense.

 

[Doodle]

So the races don't stay captive in the hub section, and have to be removed to get the disc off. I see what you mean then.

 

[warrenpfo]

Yep.

The inside of the disc is the hub if that makes sense. Toyota have cleverly designed the disc with spaces to knock out the race but it can still go wrong if not done with some precision that is if you are replacing with Toyota discs and not 3rd party.

 

[Doodle]

There was a set of aftermarket discs included in the spares that Julian gave me, should do the job unless they look like crap when I open the box.

Well practiced with shifting bearings on the bikes, I've got access to a bearing race puller as well if need be.

 

[Doodle]

Having looked at the FSM, the discs in the workshop, and various pictures of hubs and discs online, I can't help but think the bearing races are a red herring. In the FSM, there's no separate section for removing the discs, it only appears as part of the complete disassembly of the hub. I can't see any reason why the disc can't be removed as is - it seems like they've just chosen to put the bearing removal before unbolting the disc, rather than it being a necessity.

No doubt it'll come clear when I get in there - if necessary I'll do a little how-to.

 

[uHu]

1
There is no need to knock out the races.
2
Always change the inner hub seal when touching the hub. Even if only tightening the bearings and finding out that there is a noticable slack - that means the hub has moved enough to make that seal wear - And then bearing grease seeps out and hits the brake disk...
3
As said - be prepared to change the seal in the dust shield. That seal eats a lot of dust and debris, so it wears relatively fast.
4
- and most important: Do check the spindle bearing when you are in the area, and give it some lube.
5
Check the thrust washer outside the bearings. The little tab inside it can wear down and let the nuts rotate. Especially on the left-side wheel.

If you know the state of the 6 cones and studs before you start, you can avoid delays with having to get new ones. Also think of the C-clip.

This job is always a joy to do. Always manageable and very rewarding. Quality time with your loved one - Good luck.

 

[Doodle]

Time to phone Simon tomorrow for prices. The cones and C-clip look fine, but the latter looks to be easily be replaced later if need be.

 

[warrenpfo]

UHU how are you to change disc and not have to knock out the outer races if Doodle is not installing new bearings but rather using the old ones??

 

[Doodle]

The inside of the disc is the hub if that makes sense.

The more I think about this bit, the more it doesn't sound right?

To my mind, the disc just slips over the tubular section of the hub and bolts up to the flange, it has nothing to do with acting as a bearing surface. I've seen it on a couple of videos, but can't find a decent image to demonstrate.

 

[warrenpfo]

Hope this helps and you are correct. I need to eat humble pie. Next time i will look before posting. No need to hammer out the races unless you are going to change the bearings them selves.

 

[Doodle]

It definitely doesn't help that the FSM's only reference to replacing the discs is as part of the complete hub disassembly - and that they've placed it *after* doing the bearings. Perfectly conceived to cause confusion.

 

[Doodle]

LTS pads on their way from Hawk, Simon's sorted me out with the rest of the bits.

Dear god those oil seals are expensive though!