G
Guest
Guest
Niall,
As written by others, a UJ is easy to replace, and it really is
something that any overlander should be able to do himself as its a
common field service job if you are out and away from anything like a garage.
The shafts are easy to remove, just 4 bolts at each end, but not only
witness mark the 2 shaft halves before removal, but also the yoke
halves in relation to each other, and the flanges at each end in such
a way that the ends do not also become transposed. (Tipp-ex is the
stuff to use if you don't want to make chisel or centre punch marks).
Also note the exact position of the grease nipple in relation to the
yokes. If you can get a grease gun on them then replicate it,
otherwise fit it at a different angle. This is probably the most
annoying part of the job - getting the grease nipple back in at the
wrong angle! It looks as if it would not matter, but some of us have
'happy' memories of having them in the wrong sector of alignment !
You don't need a vice to do the job, though it helps. But you do need
a very large vice to accomplish the job in a perfect world. A large G
cramp or a cheapo carpenter's sliding jaw clamp is as good, and I did
my UJ's using the latter working in my boat engine room of all
places! Most important is having the right sized socket to use to
press out the old cups. Not just one to fit inside the bore but also
one to fit outside the cup on the outside of the yoke, so that the
cup can be pressed out and into it far enough to give sufficient
length to grip it with a Mole wrench..
Well, you'll see how it all works when you have a go ;o)
Cheers
Jon
Tring,Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus - keeping the threads separate for
Julian's system !
As written by others, a UJ is easy to replace, and it really is
something that any overlander should be able to do himself as its a
common field service job if you are out and away from anything like a garage.
The shafts are easy to remove, just 4 bolts at each end, but not only
witness mark the 2 shaft halves before removal, but also the yoke
halves in relation to each other, and the flanges at each end in such
a way that the ends do not also become transposed. (Tipp-ex is the
stuff to use if you don't want to make chisel or centre punch marks).
Also note the exact position of the grease nipple in relation to the
yokes. If you can get a grease gun on them then replicate it,
otherwise fit it at a different angle. This is probably the most
annoying part of the job - getting the grease nipple back in at the
wrong angle! It looks as if it would not matter, but some of us have
'happy' memories of having them in the wrong sector of alignment !
You don't need a vice to do the job, though it helps. But you do need
a very large vice to accomplish the job in a perfect world. A large G
cramp or a cheapo carpenter's sliding jaw clamp is as good, and I did
my UJ's using the latter working in my boat engine room of all
places! Most important is having the right sized socket to use to
press out the old cups. Not just one to fit inside the bore but also
one to fit outside the cup on the outside of the yoke, so that the
cup can be pressed out and into it far enough to give sufficient
length to grip it with a Mole wrench..
Well, you'll see how it all works when you have a go ;o)
Cheers
Jon
Tring,Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus - keeping the threads separate for
Julian's system !