Gremlins in my central locking

DarkAngl

New Member
I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
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1
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Hi all,
I have just purchased a 90 series Toyota Prado and in the past few days the central locking has been playing up. When I say playing up I am referring to the central locking continuously unlocking itself intermittently. Sometimes happens numerous times in a short period or can go all night without it happening.

Its a 3.4 V6 petrol 5 speed manual 1999.

I have recently run the wire of my dash cam from the right cigarette plug under the steering column and up around the right door trim into the centre of the roof just behind the reversing mirror. As the problem only started since I connected the dash cam I have checked the wiring where I cable tied the wire and all seems to be fine. As I am going to be connecting an aftermarket wireless remote system I have purchased all I want to do is disable the current setup (manual central locking - not wireless) until I connect the aftermarket or get someone to do it for me (bypassing the current system if possible to avoid any current issues).

I would like to know where I can find something to disable to current wired central locking system so I can leave the battery connected without the doors continuously unlocking themselves.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Craig
 

froggy Steve

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Jul 26, 2012
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Sorry Craig, cant help, but......Must be something in the air.......mine packed up this morning. Well, more accurately, the remote fob to open/close decided not to work. Put in a new battery and still nowt :( Key in the door works all the locks though, but it would be nice 'not to have to work' to get in ;) Any idea's anyone?
 

StarCruiser

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Steve, I have had this problem on my 80, see here
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56431
With several of these popping up I'm beginning to wonder if there is a pattern to anything that may be being caused by radio interference blotting out the signal. I've had mine temporarily blotted out by a nearby radio remote on a Hiab being on E stop.

Interested to know what alarm it is. If it's an after market one especially.
 

DarkAngl

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I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
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Mine isn't wireless hence why I have bought an aftermarket kit for it. My key locks all doors but will not unlock all doors (only drivers door). Hope you find the problem, I have patched it by disconnecting the battery for the time being (luckily its our second vehicle so not being used constantly).
 
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StarCruiser

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Craig, welcome to the forum. I can only offer generic help troubleshooting as I have no experience of your model truck.

It sounds to me like there's water got into either one of the switches or the operating module.

If it's anything like my 80 there will be a switch somewhere near the driver with three positions Spring biased to the centre. Check this is not damaged first, then eliminate it by disconnecting it from the plug on the rear. If your problem persists the fault lies elsewhere. There will be a switch inside the driver's door that could possibly get water in. Do the same to eliminate this switch. Again if the fault continues you have eliminated this switch. This will be tricky to get to and involve removing the door card and looking inside the door to find it. Check it is not damaged or the rods that operate it have not been dislodged etc.

The third possibility is the control box which is in the driver's door on my 81. Check for water in here if yours is in the door.

While you are under the dash or in that area check for signs of water getting in. The alarm module itself may be getting water in.

If you find anything water damaged, dry it out and clean it up or vice versa.

Unplug any suspect module carefully to eliminate it as per the switches. Once you stop the problem the fault will be in the last part removed.

Good luck with it.

Richard

Edit, just seen you don't have an alarm yet so scrub that bit above. [emoji4]
 
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DarkAngl

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I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
12
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Hi Richard,

Thanks for your input and will check it out once we get back from the Big Bash in Melbourne tomorrow. Will update this post once I have looked around once I get back. The switch under the ignition is not the culprit as this is one of the first things we checked by removing it from the back and the problem still exists. One down and many more to check.

Thanks, Craig
 

Steve H

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May 22, 2010
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Hi Craig. Welcome to the forum. Might be worth checking the wires that pass through the door pillar rubber near the bottom of the door. Some of these broke in my drivers door and caused a few problems with the locking system. You could have disturbed something when running your dash cam wires. Also try squirting some WD40 or similiar into the drivers door lock and see if that stops it. Like Richard has suggested if there is water in the switch could disperse it and point you in the right direction.
@ Froggysteve. Have you tried to reset your remote by pushing both buttons at once until the led flashes? this should reset it. Apologies if you already have. Changed the battery in my fob the other week and had to re sync it this way.
 
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StarCruiser

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Hmm, I'm not sure whether the switch is anywhere near the lock barrel, on my 81 it is remote from it but WD40 applied into it should disperse water. It then begs the question how did the water get in there?
 

Shayne

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Sorry Craig, cant help, but......Must be something in the air.......mine packed up this morning. Well, more accurately, the remote fob to open/close decided not to work. Put in a new battery and still nowt :( Key in the door works all the locks though, but it would be nice 'not to have to work' to get in ;) Any idea's anyone?
Hold both lock and unlock buttons down for 30 seconds usually sorts this for me . I also had problems for a while which turned out to be caused by the bracket that holds the switch under the bonnet getting bent , i must have leaned on it while doing something else . And i accidentally cured a temperamental fob for a while by setting off the alarm by falling against the locked truck while carrying something heavy . I have no idea why but my fob seemed to work first time every time for a good while after that ?
 

froggy Steve

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Thanks guys, tried it just now Shayne / Steve, but alas, nothing doing - its just the central locking that no longer works, I will get another battery, just in case the one I put in was as crap as the one I took out, if no change will search for something else, cant be a fuse as CL works when using the key, so suspect receiver is pooped or broken off? I do have an aftermarket CL system 'somewhere', perhaps I could pinch the drive/bits off that?
 

DarkAngl

New Member
I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
12
1
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Hi,
An update to my dilemma with the locking system. Decided to remove the dash cam lead from where I had threaded it through and my only conclusion is that it must have dislodged something or was caught on something as the problem seems to have sorted itself out. Have now installed the lead through the passengers side to avoid any other problems and will do the same with the reversing camera once I receive it.

Thanks goes to everyone that offered their helpful suggestions and hopefully won't need any further help once I look at installing the reversing camera and remote central locking when it arrives.

Regards,
Craig
 

DarkAngl

New Member
I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
12
1
8
Hi guys,
My aftermarket wireless remote central locking kit arrived today and have done some searching on the net and have found that if you already have central locking in your vehicle you can hook it up to the existing central locking system. Have found that I can connect the red (power to battery), Black (ground), then unlock and lock cables to the switch in the dash board.

My problem is I can't find out which wire is the Unlock and which is the Lock in the switch (already know which is which in the aftermarket setup.

There is a Black/White, Blue/Yellow & Blue/White from the switch to the Drivers side door.
I presume that the black/white is negative or power and the other two are the unlock/lock leads.

Can anyone verify this for me as I will save me anywhere from $200 - $500 in getting the system fitted professionally.

Regards,
Craig
 

StarCruiser

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Get yourself a multimeter and test on V for volts with one lead attached to the body. The other lead you can put in the terminals on back of the switch and push the switch to see what you get. When at rest you should find one wire with 12v or so on it, when you push 'unlock' there will be another wire that gets 12v on it and so forth.
 

DarkAngl

New Member
I am in australia
Dec 31, 2015
12
1
8
Update to the post.

Was able to find a repair manual online for the 90 series which helped find the 2 leads I needed to connect the central locking to.

If anyone would like a copy follow the following link: http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...g_Diagram1.pdf

Was found via a post here by chance. :)

Hopefully get the reversing camera tomorrow to install then will be looking for a bull bar for it so I can fit driving lights and winch to really get into four wheel driving.

Thanks for everyones help.

Cheers,
Craig
 

froggy Steve

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Jul 26, 2012
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Ah ha! Sussed it!
After trying lots of things found on tinternet about reprogramming remotes etc, I found another which was 'almost' the same as the last one I tried except for a tiny little point ......here is the info that finally worked.......................


1. Start with key out of ignition, important]drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.

2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock
cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder
.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful
entry into programming mode. Return to step 1
if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by
itself and hold for 2 seconds
. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once
indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice.
repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Close drivers door.

We now have a working central locking system :) :dance:
 
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mettisse

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May 27, 2010
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SouthEast Essex
Hi, I don't need this info but may I say a well done for instructions even I could follow, you may have missed your vocation, you could write instructions for assembly of flat pack furniture I'm sure many will appreciate your efforts, best regards, Bill Westley
 
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