Just had the drive train fail on my 2003 HDJ100 auto. This truck has been faultless for 5 years that I've owned it. Towing a 2500kg boat around a corner slowly and trailer wheel clipped the curb. The drive failed and now just a grinding noise in fwd or reverse. Drive shaft still turning when in gear but no drive. Limped home in fwd. I'm not sure where to start the investigation. Any suggestions would be welcome.
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HDJ100 drive train failure
- Thread starter Mark J
- Start date
Thanks for the reply Stuart. The grinding noise seems to be coming from the gearbox or transfer case, hope I'm wrong. Now that I've thought about it more, when it failed I put it in drive and handbrake on had a quick look underneath and it was the front drive shaft turning so I'm not sure what else was going on under there. I didn't want to get too far under with it in gear and on my own. I'll drop the rear tailshaft tomorrow and start fault finding. In the short term is it feaseable to operate in fwd with the rear shaft removed or am I risking damage?
Sorry to hear of your troubles.
If it’s grinding as you drive, I wouldn’t risk it. I had a cv go on the front LHS of my manual 80 and drove it using the Centre diff lock to get drive to the rear.
The broken ends of the shaft had polished themselves together, but other than that I got away with it...
If it’s grinding as you drive, I wouldn’t risk it. I had a cv go on the front LHS of my manual 80 and drove it using the Centre diff lock to get drive to the rear.
The broken ends of the shaft had polished themselves together, but other than that I got away with it...
Thanks Clive, I drove a couple of Klms to home in 4wd when it blew without any noise at all. Noise was only when in 2wd and trying to drive fwd or reverse. press 4wd button and drive no problem although it was a 25Klm/Hr trip home.
I don’t know 100s, sorry, but I’m guessing a broken rear half shaft, between rear diff and one side or the other.
If you’re really unlucky, it might be the diff itself.
You could drive it in 4wd for repair, if it didn’t sound gruesome...
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Byggmester Johan
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Front diff is broken. Take out the oil plug. And shake the oil for Iron spoon.
Scott
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If I've understood your post correctly I'd be looking for a failure in the front axle, probably a CV joint. As if the front propshaft was turning whilst the vehicle was in drive (auto gearbox) but the handbrake was applied and the vehicle not moving, there will be a failure between the front prop and the front wheels, be it diff/drive shaft/CV or a drive flange.
Is your 100 full time 4x4 or does it have a part time 4x2 kit installed? To get the 100 to drive following the failure, was it the centre difflock that was engaged?
Trevor
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My first port of call would be to pop the centre caps off the front wheels and tap off the metal dust covers in the middle of the drive flange so you can see the end of the CV.
I had the drive flange splines finally fail on one side (they do wear over time) and it sounds horrendous, if you can see the end of the CV rotating when in drive (take the centre diff lock off first) then hopefully you have a cheap and easy resolution.
I had the drive flange splines finally fail on one side (they do wear over time) and it sounds horrendous, if you can see the end of the CV rotating when in drive (take the centre diff lock off first) then hopefully you have a cheap and easy resolution.
Byggmester Johan
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If you're oil plugg og the front diff looks like this. Then the front diff is broken.
Byggmester Johan
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Her is mine broken front diff
Oh dear Johan, that looks very sad indeed!
Hopefully the OP hasn't suffered the same fate. As this is on a 100 series Trevor, wouldn't you see a driveshaft turning from diff to wheel if the drive flange has gone? Do the hundees have the same setup with drive flanges as the 80s?
Hopefully the OP hasn't suffered the same fate. As this is on a 100 series Trevor, wouldn't you see a driveshaft turning from diff to wheel if the drive flange has gone? Do the hundees have the same setup with drive flanges as the 80s?
Thanks for the replies fellas and sorry i havent been back, busy with work and doctors. Ive done a bit more looking and the front drive shaft is turning when centre diff lock is off, so im hopeful it may be that CV spline. I ll check it now and post results when i know. Thanks again for advice.
Finally got to the bottom of of it, serves me right for being such an alarmist. Some of you were right on the money. Popped the dust covers and the left side cv shaft had thrown the circlip off and receded into the drive housing. The spline was chewed off the end of the shaft I'm assuming due to the flogged out wheel bearing. 385000klm up and probably 50000 of those towing 3 t boat, so I can't complain about a bit of wear and tear although there wasn't any indication of the bearings failing. Anyway, rebuild time and thanks again guys.
Glad you’ve found the culprit, and that it’s not the diff or the transfer box.
Thanks for posting and good luck with the repair (bill).
Thanks for posting and good luck with the repair (bill).
Well done finding it Mark. You'll be needing Amayama.com for the parts. Frighten yourself by asking your local Toyota dealership first then look on Amayama. You need to sign up then you get access to all the parts catalogues which you search by putting in your model number. Once you have a list of parts in your basket which are roughly priced, you submit this and within a day or so you'll get a firm price back with delivery. 2 weeks or so later your parts turn up after paying import duty and tax. You'll be pleased with the cost difference, so get everything you need and as Clive says, good luck with it.
Scott
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How has your brake pedal been? Worn bearings allow the hub/brake disc to move back and forth independently of the brake caliper, this pushes the brake pads back away from the disc, so you end up with a longer brake pedal as the pads have to be pushed back into contact with the disc before they can start to slow the discs rotation.
It is a point, Scott.
However, when my 80 recently shot an original front wheel bearing (apparently to pieces and I was lucky not to lose the whole hub I’m told) I didnt feel a thing mechanically, only that the truck wanted to “wander” more than it should, no noises or clunks to suggest something wrong.
I did, however, notice an improvement in the responsiveness of the brakes, but only after the wheel bearing had been replaced. The pedal travel was marginally less after the fix, and the slight wheel wobble on braking that had crept up on me, was gone.
I find with our trusted trucks, that some problems generally develop slowly, and you adjust your driving to suit without realizing it. After repair, you can feel all the improvements, but they’re often not so evident as the parts deteriorate.
No complaints though, that wheel bearing was original (as still is the other side) and it had done 410k km. Can’t be bad can it?
I’ve just worked that out to be circa 160 million revolutions (if I’m any good at maths).
JMHO and crappy mathematics
Hey Scott, when I started reading how has your brake pedal been I was thinking wheres he going with this! For the past week Ive been wondering why the extra pedal travel, then this happened and took priority. I never would have connected the two but holy crap you guys are all over this. I just finished telling a mate that I had no indication of a problem, obviously there was. Wish Id spoken to you a week ago. Anyway I just picked up the cv shafts, bearing kits and seals for both sides, AU$600, better than the alternative.Thanks fellas.
