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Hedgehog - LC100 build thread

Are you aware of the Ozzie LCOOL landcruiser Owners forum? www.lcool.org
Probably get a quicker answer there as its an Oz product. I use Lovells so can't help I'm afraid.
 
WomblingFree said:
Steve

LongRanger have sent me a bunch of pics explaining how the internal surge baffling works. Thought the might be of interest.
Rather than hi-jack your thread, I've posted them on the LCOOL forum here:
http://www.lcool.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37300
Click to expand...

Thanks for that - very informative. I think that I will adjust my gauge/float arm to be sensitive to the empty end..... essentially the arm needs to be lengthened (per instructions)......the practical experience is that the area with the float arm in it is very poorly baffled (at best) as it is up and down like the proverbial Whxxxs drawers
 
Careful with lengthening as that is for the non water tank model where you can achieve the full swing top/bottom. Doesn't apply to us with the water tank built in.
I use the Toyo factory gauge which is wonderfully dampened so as to show almost no movement - sort of like toyo temp gauges :)

I guess the level sender would flap around as there is no baffling there but its nice to know the fuel pickup is surge protected to some extent.
 
Last edited:
WomblingFree said:
Careful with lengthening as that is for the non water tank model where you can achieve the full swing top/bottom. Doesn't apply to us with the water tank built in.
I use the Toyo factory gauge which is wonderfully dampened so as to show almost no movement - sort of like toyo temp gauges :)
Click to expand...

Have you got a p/n for the gauge?

The thing is that I need to get the reading more accurate as well as dampened.....so I'm going to have to fiddle with the sender in any case so it sort of reads top/bottom (particularly bottom). I reckon it will be easy to mark out the space where the sender arm sits (using a steel probe and the inclinometer on my iphone to get a rough pattern of the space available in that part of the tank) and then mod the arm length to fit the available space (probably with a bit of bending). So long as the arm doesn't hit the far side and can arc top (hit the water tank) to bottom (hit the diesel tank floor) then it will be as good as it gets. Not an urgent job....just a niggle at the mo'
 
No part #.
I'm talking about the factory gauge your truck comes with. Dampened down to death plus when you remove the wires from it, it stays where it is, doesn't drop to zero like most meters.
Oz model 100s have two tanks fitted but just use the one gauge to check levels. We don't know whats in the 2nd tank unless we switch over to it.
You could easily do the same by having your c/o switch swap meter feeds. Might need a c/o switch with more poles or maybe a separate switch just for the gauge.
 
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Are you settled on Tough Dog vs EFS? Be interested to know what has made your mind up that way ...
 
Gary Stockton said:
Are you settled on Tough Dog vs EFS? Be interested to know what has made your mind up that way ...
Click to expand...

People always have their favourites and good/bad experiences.......however, getting good feedback from various quarters on EFS springs and tough dog shock.......but not EFS shocks. Both are new to me. Some other makes don't have the range or the lift or the capacity I'm looking for so rule themselves out in any case.

I'm not yet fixed on those two suppliers so always open to other experience/options. There seems very little tangible differentiation between many of the products
 
Ok cheers. I fitted ToughDogs to my 120 - the adjustable ones. And to be honest - I set them in the middle of the 9 settings then never touched them again, so I'm not sure that feature would appeal to me next time.
 
Gary Stockton said:
Ok cheers. I fitted ToughDogs to my 120 - the adjustable ones. And to be honest - I set them in the middle of the 9 settings then never touched them again, so I'm not sure that feature would appeal to me next time.
Click to expand...

As I understand it a spring and shock do their best when tuned together - regardless of the mass to be damped. The adjustment is to take up valve wear once the tuned point is achieved (so I'm not surprised you have not adjusted). I guess a lot of people put their own preferences in the compliant/less compliance of their set up. The manually adjustable does at least allow you to set your preference and does allow you to set the system up to stop large loads from grounding out at the expense of a non-compliant low grip wet performance for example. Grounding out probably means that the springs should have been stiffer in the first place. Manual adjustables allow tuning to the selected spring rather than suck/see particularly with parts from two different suppliers that are not designed as a 'system'. The rate sensing type would seem to sense an under-damped load (high rate of change?) and stiffen accordingly but are not tunable to your own preferences....just my thoughts
 
Loaded the truck up to almost full overland weight today to conduct some tests on the ride height using the existing OME shocks. As per an earlier post the truck was already sitting level with the fixed load and I suspected that with the full weight in it the rear would be sagging. From the results table it can be seen that the rear distance to top of wheel arch from ground (through wheel centre line) is an average of -33.6mm below same for front wheel arch. It looks to be sagging in the rear by eye too. I'm not sure what the design height is (or more importantly what the relative difference front to rear is on an AHC system). I need to research this. However my thoughts are it needs to be higher at the back and therefore some new beefier springs will be needed. The AHC has gone from my truck and the front torsion bar (OME HD) adjusted to provide the right level of lift originally

R1R2R3R4AverageAxle Av
Rear Near907904906907906.0903.8
Rear Off900908898900901.5
Front Near935935936940936.5937.4
Front Off936939940938938.3
Difference Front to Rear-33.6
No passengers
OME +200kg rear springs
Full fuel, full water, simulated overland load
no winch and no 6th wheel
 
Hi Steve

Do the UK HDJ100's come with cruise control fitted?
Ozzie diesels do not (petrols do) so looking for what markets to have them fitted.
 
WomblingFree said:
Hi Steve

Do the UK HDJ100's come with cruise control fitted?
Ozzie diesels do not (petrols do) so looking for what markets to have them fitted.
Click to expand...

Mine has it. It is a 2004 facelift model.....not sure if earlier ones had it fitted
 
Finished off the CB install at the antenna end over the weekend. Measured out a full wavelength cable (CB to antenna) and also introduced a simple RF choke. In reality a full/half wavelength cable should make sod-all difference (myths aside) but it just makes me feel better AND allows a few turns of spare cable to create a crude choke to help with any common mode effects (RF energy reflected back from the antenna due to imperfect ground plane). A bit black art and I have not yet SWR'd the end result...so time will tell whether this is just BS. Whatever the SWR is there will be little chance to sensibly improve it further. Anyway a few pics of the install. The mount to the rack is one half of a mirror mount from Thunderpole. The cable runs up the front window channel (I will secure the cable with some black mastic), under the bonnet near the windscreen wipers and into the vehicle through a rubber gland in the bulkhead behind the dashboard.
A useful guide can be found here: http://www.cbantennaguide.com/Coax_Basics.htm

IMG_1409 low res.jpgIMG_1410 low res.jpg
 
SteveS said:
Loaded the truck up to almost full overland weight today to conduct some tests on the ride height using the existing OME shocks. As per an earlier post the truck was already sitting level with the fixed load and I suspected that with the full weight in it the rear would be sagging. From the results table it can be seen that the rear distance to top of wheel arch from ground (through wheel centre line) is an average of -33.6mm below same for front wheel arch. It looks to be sagging in the rear by eye too. I'm not sure what the design height is (or more importantly what the relative difference front to rear is on an AHC system). I need to research this. However my thoughts are it needs to be higher at the back and therefore some new beefier springs will be needed. The AHC has gone from my truck and the front torsion bar (OME HD) adjusted to provide the right level of lift originally

R1
R2
R3
R4
Average
Axle Av
Rear Near
907
904
906
907
906.0
903.8
Rear Off
900
908
898
900
901.5
Front Near
935
935
936
940
936.5
937.4
Front Off
936
939
940
938
938.3
Difference Front to Rear
-33.6
No passengers
OME +200kg rear springs
Full fuel, full water, simulated overland load
no winch and no 6th wheel
Click to expand...

Elsewhere on this forum I asked if anyone had experience of which EFS shocks to use and forum regular Scott came up trumps
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/53875-EFS-springs-but-what-constant-weight

This confirmed my investigations that the 113HHDE model for the rears with a high constant load was the right choice. Hopefully this will make up the -33mm deficiency and put a few more mm on top of that to bring the vehicle slightly higher at the back. There is a bit more weight to go on the front nose in the form of a winch so the front will drop a little too. The 113s will be on order tomorrow.......next up big bore Tough Dog shocks to suit
 
Some while ago posted here for some input to my design for a vehicle/12v wifi booster and router to go in the truck so that I can access wifi at increased range/not have to sit in a bar/coffee house necessarily

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...ower-WiFi-Receiver-Antenna?highlight=ethernet

As recommended I contacted the people at Motorhomewifi for a WiFi power booster and router for my truck.

http://www.motorhomewifi.com/product/iboost-omni-directional/

The items are on order - I'll report back on how the install/operation goes. I plan to hard mount the antenna to the roof rack, possibly using a short section of extension pole to lift a little above the roof line.
 
Busy day to day....managed to also sort out the shower/heat exchanger unit for the truck. After quite a bit of research I opted for a Glind system (principally as the HE is made mostly not from copper and will not cause such a reaction in the engine coolant, and the good reputation/build quality for this kit).

If all goes well a hot shower will be one of our luxuries on our travels

http://www.glind.com.au/

Along with the HE I have also ordered the "sand spear" filter so I can draw water up from a river/lake as well as bucket. To reduce weight and shipping costs I will get pumps and ancillary electrical bits here in the UK

Tim at Glind has been most helpful. Will provide updates on the install once I get the shipment.

photo%20(2)-228x228.jpg
 
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