help please

[Annamarie]

carls wife here...how do you get the cv joint of the drive shaft he's out there now trying to work it out


thank you

 

[stumog]

you drop the shaft into a tube so that it knocks the cv off. hard to explain in words. pm sent

 

[Gav Peter]

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/34769-Rebuilding-the-80-series-front-axle

You need this thread Annamarie

 

[Annamarie]

he says he has separated the cv joint and drive shaft by dropping it on the vice. carl will explain later

 

[grantw]

Sounds like a win.

 

[Red Oktober]

Hi guys .... First off .. thanks for the help .. much appreciated

as Annamarie said .. I dropped the drive shaft/birf through an open vice to separate them rather than use a steel pipe which I don't have. ..

I have come up against a snag now though ....

....

I don't have the stuff to get them two studs out and if you look the threads have stripped ..... so I have decided to just get another bit.

if anyone has one of those ... i'd be very happy indeed ....

 

[Justin_Elliott]

I managed to remove my damaged studs quite easily - which is probably why they loosened / failed in the first place.

I would have thought the hub would be quite easy to find (i.e. Karl / Stef etc..) but I'd defintely try to remove them first. Whilst the first few threads looked damaged, you've got a decent thread length beyond those.

You should be able to pick up some cheapo stud extraction kit online - definitely worth a shot if your starting to consider it scrap...

HTH

 

[grantw]

Jon & Chris have given me good advice on getting seized bolts out on the maintenance thread. Do you have a welder? You could possible weld a nut on the back of the stud and take it out backwards?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Jon & Chris have given me good advice on getting seized bolts out on the maintenance thread. Do you have a welder? You could possible weld a nut on the back of the stud and take it out backwards?

No need to go backwards, you'd get the welder in there no trouble, but I suppose you could if you wanted

 

[Chris]

If that were mine, I'd drill through the stud and then tap it, say 8mm then I'd screw in an 8mm bolt, stacked with washers maybe and actually wind the stud out clockwise like I was tightening it until it drops through.


Chris

 

[clivehorridge]

I've had stud extractors snap off inside, then you're really snookered. Maybe they were a cheap set.

But I have had success drilling studs out if you can get it centered properly. Start small and come up gradually in size. The heat from drilling often means the last size of drill winds the remaining part of the thread out, as you're drilling.

Or, cut a slot in the back end and try a driver bit on an impact driver, that's worked for me in the past.

 

[Chris]

That's the beauty of tapping it Clive you don't even have to be in the middle. However, adding to the debate, IF I were to try to drill those out almost to the threads and it was a one shot deal or bust, I would machine up a small plug that would fit in the top of the hole using what thread there was left. This would have a pilot hole in the middle. I would then use a face mill (no, not a drill) in the pilot hole to face up the broken stud so it was flat. Then I'd use a drill, slightly larger to account for wear in the pilot hole, to drill down the middle of the stud. It's a bit of work I know, but last time I did this it was to save a whole front hub where the studs had sheared off. It works. You can use another stud as the pilot guide, but of course you still need a lathe really to put in a perfect centred hole. That's the sort of thing that you can easily get done - on this forum at least. I recall doing this for a bolt for Gary, post it, I'll drill it and post it back.

 

[clivehorridge]

Well I can't disagree with any of that Chris!

In my days, I would have been lying on my back with rain dripping in my eyes trying to get a leccy drill into silly places!

It's great if you've got the right gear!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

sounds like a lot of hard work 2 mins with a mig and they'd be out

 

[Chris]

I get you Jon, but maybe it's my eyes, they looked very deep to me. I wouldn't want to fill the threaded hole up with weld. Snapped off flush I am with you all the way. But how to you bridge the gap between the top of the stud deep down the hole and the nut laid in top. They just loo a long way down t'ole if you get me.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

They just loo a long way down t'ole if you get me.

You build the stud up with weld more than if it was flush - bzzzzt pause bzzzst pause till it's just proud, pop your nut over the top, bzzzt and wind it out Even for flush ones stick a dome of weld on top first then sit the nut on and it will be an easier target. Ideally the end of the stud is as clean as you can get it and the threads / hole sides are as dirty as you like, so you get penetration on the stud and no stick to the sides so you can let the blob spread pretty good each time you bzzzt. Sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to get good enough penetration of the stud because of it being dirty. Big studs like these are nice, plenty of room to work, recessed M8's are a bit trickier but still works just a bit tricker to get that initial penetration without just plugging the hole Dirty sides / threads mean even if you go a bit wrong the blob won't stick to the sides just adds a bit of friction when you come to turn it. I go on about it a bit because it was such a revelation to me when I first learn't about it

 

[Chris]

It's a technique I have used many times to great success. I have even made bolts out of studs and nut welded like that. Just thought it looked a bit deep. Those hubs are cast so probably not got the greatest affinity for 6013 welding wire anyway. But sharing techniques is good. Whether or not you'd use them in this scenario is a moot point. There is more than one good way to get a stud out. Stud extractors are really only for getting snapped but moving studs out. This is why people snap them so often. I'm lining up to buy some left hand taps, say 6, 8 and 10 mm. Also some LH bolts. Just handy to keep in the cabinet. If you can't go through with the stud then it has to come out the way it went in. I still like drilling, tapping and winding in a bolt. Not going to be able to MIG every time.

 

[Red Oktober]

Ta muchly for all the suggestions lads ....

2 things ...
1. I don't own a mig. (own an arc tho i'm not good at using it)
2. I have a replacement on the way from Mr Webster. (just wish it would hurry up and get here)

 

[Red Oktober]

Received replacement from Karl.

 

[Chris]

wire brush and paraffin and that'll be as good as new.