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Help please

That yaw sensor has cropped up before on here, but cant find it for comparison symptoms.
This may be a (very) long shot, - Karl will know better. Disconnect both batteries then go for a cuppa, come back and reconnect in the hope that something (ecu)? will reset.
Good news that it still runs well, I was thinking it was a no go.
If you give an indication of what area you're in, someone may have a garage recommendation.
Further to Karl's comment about dont assume anything -don't assume a Toyota dealership can/will fix it either, they will rape your wallet for likely no gain. Known facts on here.
 
Thanks for the advice.
I have tried all the YouTube fixes, disconnecting the battery using the paper clips and sadly none of them have worked.
I didn't want to take it to a dealership for that very reason.
I am in Hampshire.

The car still runs great, which is so annoying! as it won't pass an MOT with all the lights on
 
Good advice about the batteries!

What were you trying with paperclips? Joining two pins and then using DAC to try and recalibrate the yaw sensor, or something else?

Cant really recommend anyone. I had a similar problem on mine with similar lights - it went to 6 garages and nobody could fix it. Over lockdown i got stuck in and sorted it myself.

Its very easy to rack up massive hourly £ bills on these and doesnt take long for them to become uneconomical. Its probably an easy problem to fix, its the diagnosis that will be the difficult bit and expensive when paying by the hour.

You might want to invest in a scanner so you can get your own live data, or maybe someone in the area can lend you one. A five minute drive with a scanner showing live data will be enough to give some clues on the wheel sensors. Thats the easiest place to start.

Fuses need to be checked. Appreciate your not a mechanic, but if you are practically minded you can test the fuses quickly and without removing them with multimeter.

We can guide you, but i appreciate this stuff isnt for everyone!
 
Hi Karl, you put the u shaped paper clip into the OBD socket in 4 & 13 then go through a turn on turn off procedure! tbh, I was clutching at straws I thought of anything to get it back to normal.

I am happy to try anything, I have a multimeter hiding somewhere in the house, and if you are willing to help then I am very grateful.

also in the mix is it insured not by the same company I am still trying to get answers from them. but unfortunately, my MOT runs out on the 17th

I have sent the info you gave me over to my garage for them to look at and see if any of that helps. Cheers
 
"Is it insured not by the same company"?
Not sure what you are asking, but normally once a pay out has been made on a write off/uneconomical to repair, insurance ceases on that vehicle from that point on.
Check your insurance documents/booklet supplied by your insurance company, and make sure if you are still driving it.
 
Last edited:
No, I was just pointing out that the vehicle is insured. In my case the original insurance did continue after the payout i double-checked it just to be safe!
 
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That's good news then.
I wonder if they would pay you out again if there was another accident ?
Crazy innit ?
 
karl2000 said:
Good advice about the batteries!

What were you trying with paperclips? Joining two pins and then using DAC to try and recalibrate the yaw sensor, or something else?

Cant really recommend anyone. I had a similar problem on mine with similar lights - it went to 6 garages and nobody could fix it. Over lockdown i got stuck in and sorted it myself.

Its very easy to rack up massive hourly £ bills on these and doesnt take long for them to become uneconomical. Its probably an easy problem to fix, its the diagnosis that will be the difficult bit and expensive when paying by the hour.

You might want to invest in a scanner so you can get your own live data, or maybe someone in the area can lend you one. A five minute drive with a scanner showing live data will be enough to give some clues on the wheel sensors. Thats the easiest place to start.

Fuses need to be checked. Appreciate your not a mechanic, but if you are practically minded you can test the fuses quickly and without removing them with multimeter.

We can guide you, but i appreciate this stuff isnt for everyone!
Click to expand...
Hi Karl, I have dug out my multimeter from the garage.

Karl, you mentioned some guidance regards checking the fuses, if you have the time to help that would be great thanks.
 
Thanks to TM for letting me know your post was here i hadnt spotted it!

Youll be able to find how-to's / videos on youtube, but basically:

- put your meter onto the continuity/ resistance setting

- touch the two leads together to make sure it beeps (which shows continuity)

Then, theres two fuse boxes. One under the bonnet, and one just below and to the right of the steering wheel.

There are different types of fuses. 90% of them are the small blade type which you can test without removing as detailed below. The others are bigger fuses, you can visually inspect them through the glass at the top to see if they are obviously broken, but you may have to remove them to test properly. Do the easy blade type fuses first.

Each fuse has two pins, and they are exposed through the plastic case at the top of the fuse so that you can test them without taking the fuse out and distupting the circuit. Put the two multimeter leads on the two fuse pins (it doesnt matter which is red and which is black). Make sure you have a good connection and you will get a beep from the meter if the fuse is ok.

If you dont get a beep, make sure you have a good connection. If stil no beep you can pull the fuse out and check it via the orher end of the pins in the same way and also give it a visual check. You can hold it up to the light and see if the link between the two pins is broken in the middle.

If you find any broken fuses, make sure you know where they are (they are numbered) and only replace with a fuse of the same colour and rating.
 
karl2000 said:
Thanks to TM for letting me know your post was here i hadnt spotted it!

Youll be able to find how-to's / videos on youtube, but basically:

- put your meter onto the continuity/ resistance setting

- touch the two leads together to make sure it beeps (which shows continuity)

Then, theres two fuse boxes. One under the bonnet, and one just below and to the right of the steering wheel.

There are different types of fuses. 90% of them are the small blade type which you can test without removing as detailed below. The others are bigger fuses, you can visually inspect them through the glass at the top to see if they are obviously broken, but you may have to remove them to test properly. Do the easy blade type fuses first.

Each fuse has two pins, and they are exposed through the plastic case at the top of the fuse so that you can test them without taking the fuse out and distupting the circuit. Put the two multimeter leads on the two fuse pins (it doesnt matter which is red and which is black). Make sure you have a good connection and you will get a beep from the meter if the fuse is ok.

If you dont get a beep, make sure you have a good connection. If stil no beep you can pull the fuse out and check it via the orher end of the pins in the same way and also give it a visual check. You can hold it up to the light and see if the link between the two pins is broken in the middle.

If you find any broken fuses, make sure you know where they are (they are numbered) and only replace with a fuse of the same colour and rating.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Karl, I have changed the odd fuse now and again just never tested them in the way you describe. That will save me a lot of time Thanks.
regarding the bigger square ones if you can't see through the top can they just be pulled out and inspected? Cheers
 
The fuse box in the engine bay also has relays in it which might be what you're referring to. Best way to test those is with a relay tester, although you can do it with a multimeter and a 12V battery. Taking those out is disruptive, so I'd check the fuses first.
 
karl2000 said:
The fuse box in the engine bay also has relays in it which might be what you're referring to. Best way to test those is with a relay tester, although you can do it with a multimeter and a 12V battery. Taking those out is disruptive, so I'd check the fuses first.
Click to expand...
Just checked the regular fuses and sadly they all tested ok! I was hoping to find a duff one as an explanation for the problem
 
Karl,my thinking today is I have a laptop with Windows11 which I only use as a backup device,so it would be perfect for Techstream.Another summer job.
 
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