imobilser question

[smokyjoe]

After my ford encounter my truck will start up then cut out and the imobilser light wont go out, the keyfob for the alarm doesnt work now either,
does anyone know how to remove this all together and if thats possible?

i thought about adding a live direct to the pump stop soleniod so as i could then warm up the heater and set it blowing for a while to clear it out, i checked but it apears to have a plug with two wires going to it, most ive delt with only have a live feed is it possible to do a temp job to get it warmed through?

 

[smokyjoe]

Nobody know

 

[Gav Peter]

Have a word with Karl/Dave... If you've never read this thread, it will give a clue or two

 

[KZJ90]

Nobody know

Check this:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_199708 ... _8424.html

I think the ECU boxs for the engine and immobilizer are full of water. Change the engine ECU to the model which is meant to the model without the immobilizer (from Prado).
Only a guess then... try, but don´t blame me if it won´t work.

 

[Steve H]

As a last resort, you could take the ECU out of the dash and dry it out indoors. Put in an airing cupboard over night, refit it and then try it.
Haven't taken mine out so cant comment on how easy this is but worth a try?

 

[smokyjoe]

As a last resort, you could take the ECU out of the dash and dry it out indoors. Put in an airing cupboard over night, refit it and then try it.
Haven't taken mine out so cant comment on how easy this is but worth a try?

good idea and done
one engine ecu taken covers of and no sighn of water
one ecu imobiliser no sighn of water
abs ecu
airbag ecu
and TVSS111 ecu again no sighn of water
all now on warm side of arga over night


Why does an old diesel of road vehicle need all these fancy ecu,s and why are some of them so low, are you not ment to go through water

 

[Steve H]

There may not be any sign of water but the chips inside could be damp so giving you your problem. I would give all the connectors a spray with WD40 or similiar to drive out any water residue inside before refitting them. Hope it works and your back on the road again soon.

 

[smokyjoe]

Still no joy with getting the old girl running
have had the heater going and all ecus are nice and dry but still no go, i disconected all wireing plugs and gave a spray of wd40 before reconecting, so i guess the problem is mabe terminal,
i have an electronics guy comeing next week to have a look but i wont be holding my breath, looks like time to surf the bay of evil as a replacement may be required soon

 

[Steve H]

Just a thought I take it your key was submerged as well when you took it for a swim. Have you tried resetting your ignition key to the immobiliser as water could be playing about with the key signal. Also there is a sensing ring around the ign barrel which reads the chip in the key. Is this damp and not working properly? Just some other things to check before you call it a day on the old girl.

 

[smokyjoe]

Just a thought I take it your key was submerged as well when you took it for a swim. Have you tried resetting your ignition key to the immobiliser as water could be playing about with the key signal. Also there is a sensing ring around the ign barrel which reads the chip in the key. Is this damp and not working properly? Just some other things to check before you call it a day on the old girl.

yup key went for a swim too, resetting key? wasnt sure that was possible as i only have one standard key.
the ignition barrel and the ring seem to be dry and have had the wd40 treatment but will have another look the morn incase ive missed something.

 

[Chris]

SJ, i find it odd that it will start, run and then cut out. If it were the immobiliser, surely it wouldn't start at all. Sounds more a like a fuel problem really.

Are we sure that the IM is linked to the fuel cut off valve? If that were all, it would make stealing one very easy. Two croc clips and a length of wire. OK I don't know what else you could link it to as all you need really is fuel and compression, but the pump on a 90 is electronic not mechanical so perhaps it ties into that instead.

OK this isn't helping much I know, but in my experience, understanding how something works is key to understanding why it isn't. The remote, locks the doors and sets the alarm. Does it contain a transponder for the IM? Is the transponder in the key not the fob? Is there a transponder at all? Could someone take their fob off the key ring and go and start their engine without it?

The alarm fob ECU is (usually) behind the stereo and tricky to get at, so have you really had the alarm ECU out?

Trying to help, honestly

Chris

 

[smokyjoe]

SJ, i find it odd that it will start, run and then cut out. If it were the immobiliser, surely it wouldn't start at all. Sounds more a like a fuel problem really.

yes starts up then stops after about 3 to 5 seconds, had a long chat with mr yota and he said sounds exact symtoms of imobiliser fault, he also added that the imobilser can not be taken out as its part of the car, the alarm is an after thought and is tied into the loom so can be removed, he told me if i dont have the master key i cannot re program imobiliser ecu so have to completely replace it.

Are we sure that the IM is linked to the fuel cut off valve? If that were all, it would make stealing one very easy. Two croc clips and a length of wire. OK I don't know what else you could link it to as all you need really is fuel and compression, but the pump on a 90 is electronic not mechanical so perhaps it ties into that instead

i have no idea how it imobilises the pump. i thought it was mechanical and not fly by wire but there are 3 switches on the bottom of the pump and one ontop and the stop solenoid, no idea what they all do though.

The remote, locks the doors and sets the alarm. Does it contain a transponder for the IM?

No

Is the transponder in the key not the fob? Is there a transponder at all?

yes it has a chipped key.

Could someone take their fob off the key ring and go and start their engine without it?

yes they could start car without alarm fob but you would be driveing around with siren sounding. i have been driveing around with alarm keyfob stuffed in glovebox as it didnt work when i got mine, i just unlocked the door with key.

The alarm fob ECU is (usually) behind the stereo and tricky to get at, so have you really had the alarm ECU out?

yes all ecus have been taken out and dried on aga and yes it is a little awkward to get at.

From what the technitian told me a rav 4 has the same system with just one black wire to disconect the imobiliser behind glovebox, he has also took my reg no and is going to look up wireing for my vehicle to see how it is imobilsed.
he didnt hold out much hope but surely if i would have to replace the whole system then i should be able to do it from a breakers vehicle aslong as they have the keys, would i be right in thinking that?

 

[Chris]

Yes, the TVSS was fitted after production so you can remove it all. The immobiliser is factory I guess. I never had to twiddle with that bit. The IM in my 80 is aftermarket and if it's engaged, NOTHING happens when you turn the key and I mean NOTHING. Not even lights. That's why I was surprised that it would fire up at all. Wonder if that is residual fuel in the system. The fuel pump is electronic, that what the E in 1KZ-TE stands for. Wonder if that has suffered along with the IM circuitry.

C

 

[smokyjoe]

. That's why I was surprised that it would fire up at all Wonder if that is residual fuel in the system..

it will start as many times as you want it to must have tried it a couple of dozen times or more and still does the same thing, if you throttle it while starting it revs up untill the imobiliser cuts in and stops it.

The fuel pump is electronic, that what the E in 1KZ-TE stands for. Wonder if that has suffered along with the IM circuitry.

the fuel pump has been under water many times and has been fine upto now think i will mention that to mr yota man the morn when he has had time to look at wireing diagram.